malimx6 Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 Thank you for explaination Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malimx6 Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 hmmm will this put more stress on axels? it is moving wheels after all. sorry for all the questions...but i don't use the car for racing, it's a daily driver. I need to replace bushings and looking for the alternative to stock (OEM). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iNVAR Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 No, it'll be fine. It's only 0.5 degrees more. My car is my daily driver and I run with the maximum caster dialed in. Be forewaned that stiffer bushings *will* affect NVH (harsher bumps, etc.) but I find that it's very, very tolerable and significantly better in terms of steering responsiveness, stability, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iNVAR Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 It's up to you if you want them: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/high-off-set-lca-bushings-installed-63046p2.html If your primary concern is NVH and keeping the car as stock as possible, there's only real choice for you: stay with stock rubber bushings. If you definitely want poly bushiings (stiffer) and are willing to trade off noise in favor of handling and the ability to dial in the caster to what you want, then these are what you want. If you want these bushings but are concerned with how the car looks with the added caster, these will still be okay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malimx6 Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 as always thank you for your help, but here's a post from one member, Wangspeed: "Agreed. Another thing to consider is that you are changing the angle of the CV joint. While the CV joint may be able to handle it (unless you're running big power), those of you running stage 2 or more should check your inner axle boot. I bet it's hard and cracking. The angle change will probably harder on the boot. Warren " I'm not looking to improve anything other than not having to change bushings again in 5yrs. Mine are not bad, so i'm not in hurry to get one, but am looking for the best replacement. Obviously poly are stronger than rubber but i don't want to change camber/toe/caster of the wheels which could cause other issues on a car. capish? any other recommendation to go with? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iNVAR Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 No problem. I did see that post too. I just really, really don't think you're going to cause problems with the axles. Added caster is only 0.5 degrees over stock. As far as alternatives, do a search and you should come across a few options. You could always just buy these and leave the caster at the lowest setting (closest to stock). Is NVH a concern for you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 The caster needs to be adjusted while the alignment is being done. The bushing has these little inserts/sleeves that can be turned by inserting a punch thing into the holes in the sleeve and rotating the sleeve. All the shop has to do is lossen the bolt, and rotate the sleeve and watch the caster change, and retighten once it's where you want it to be. And as mike said, the visual difference is very, very, very minor. You have to be looking for it to notice the very slight difference in wheel position in the well. Exactly, in fact, to the nekked eye, i would say you cant tell the difference. -mike http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpghttp://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/141039922.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://upload.pbase.com/image/137566671.jpg 11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts. Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us. AIM: AZP Installs | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 No problem. I did see that post too. I just really, really don't think you're going to cause problems with the axles. Added caster is only 0.5 degrees over stock. As far as alternatives, do a search and you should come across a few options. You could always just buy these and leave the caster at the lowest setting (closest to stock). Is NVH a concern for you? We have had these installed on some vehicles for 50-70k miles with no earlier than normal axle replacements. 0.5 degrees of additional caster for a cv is negliable. You are far more likely to have your stock downpipe ruin the passenger side cv ( whic is likely before 100k miles) or a pothole ruin one than the LCA Bushings. Either way, with the whiteline ones you can set it to stock. -mike http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpghttp://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/141039922.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://upload.pbase.com/image/137566671.jpg 11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts. Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us. AIM: AZP Installs | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malimx6 Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 sorry, i don't know what NVH is LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAC5.2 Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 Noise, Vibration, and Harshness. [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iNVAR Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 noise, vibration, harshness. DAMN YOU BAC!! *shakes fist* Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malimx6 Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 hahaha noise and vibration to a certain degree, i don't want it to be noisy and a lot of vibrations, but harshness is good Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iNVAR Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 I think you'll be fine with the whiteline bushings. Just my opinion... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malimx6 Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 cool...i thought so, just worried about caster. I don't plan on replacing my car for a long time lol Thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iNVAR Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 i wouldn't worry about the caster. read that thread again and decide for yourself if you want to utilize the additional caster. remember, you don't have to go to the full 0.5 degrees extra either. you can add in just another 0.2-0.3 degrees or whatever too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malimx6 Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 k thanks. Just worried that shop won't care to do a good job on alignment...then i'm screwed :/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malimx6 Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 can anybody recommend an alignment shop in Detroit area? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iNVAR Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 Just don't go to an alignment shop run by retards , and let them know when you bring the car in that you have these bushings with the caster adjustment at the bottom. After I explained how to adjust it, my shop guy said, "Wow, these are pretty cool. I've never seen this before... caster's usually done from the top but this is pretty smart, nice. So I just loosen the bolt and turn the sleeve? Will do..." And sure enough, while I watched them, the caster numbers changed on the monitor as he rotated the sleeve. Make sure you get the printout from them afterwards. I believe stock is somewhere around 5.8 or 5.9 or something like that. Just ask them to dial both sides in to around there and you'll be at stock-ish numbers. Or ask them to dial it up to the max (around 6.4ish) if you want too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malimx6 Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 Great, thank you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted March 23, 2012 Share Posted March 23, 2012 Let us know if you would like to order the bushings. As invar said, make sure it is a quality alignment shop willing to take the time to adjust them. -mike http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpghttp://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/141039922.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://upload.pbase.com/image/137566671.jpg 11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts. Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us. AIM: AZP Installs | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Telephonewire Posted December 26, 2012 Share Posted December 26, 2012 I had fitted to my LGT the KCA334 (Anti Lift Kit) and W0506 (Front Bush Kit) about a year ago but recently noticed that the camber on my two front wheels are visibly different! I am taking the car back to be re-set up again shortly; what I really would like to know is what are the absolutle settings for caster, camber and toe in/out I should be aiming for? ..so I can tell the shop what they need to do. I beleive toe in/out should be 0 degrees but what about the caster and camber settings; any ideas please? Also are there any markings on the eccentric tubes to determine at what angle the tubes are currently at so at least I can get both of them 'symetrical' before attempting to measure the caster & camber etc.? Thanks. Jeffrey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iNVAR Posted December 26, 2012 Share Posted December 26, 2012 Toe in/out should be 0 degrees, yes, unless you have a good reason to go with something else. Anything other than 0 will likely highly accelerate your tire wear. I can't remember for sure what the max caster is with the adjutable bushings but I believe it was something like 6.4 degrees of caster, which is what I opted to have. Off the top of my head, camber I think maxes out around 1-1.5 degrees, which is what I chose to do. My mechanic is cool and let me actually stand there while they were dialing in the figures and they had me look at the screen while the tech made the adjustments and when I was happy where it was, I told him to stop. I don't recall seeing any markings on the Whiteline caster adjustment, nor the stock camber bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Telephonewire Posted January 1, 2013 Share Posted January 1, 2013 Hi iNVAR, Thanks for the information - it's very useful. Is it usual / necessary / advantageous to alter the camber at the same time as the caster when fitting the KCA334 kit? Do you know what stock camber settings were? ..you say they maxed out ~1 - 1.5 degrees? Thanks. Jeffrey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iNVAR Posted January 2, 2013 Share Posted January 2, 2013 Hey, maybe this will help. Here's the printout from my car after I did the alignment. I maxed out the camber as much as I could for the front, and this is what it came out to. I also maxed out the caster. So ignore what I said about camber being -1.5. It's only -0.7 or so. Make sure you blow up the image by clicking on it twice to get the full size. It's hard to read otherwise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted January 2, 2013 Share Posted January 2, 2013 Hi iNVAR, Thanks for the information - it's very useful. Is it usual / necessary / advantageous to alter the camber at the same time as the caster when fitting the KCA334 kit? Do you know what stock camber settings were? ..you say they maxed out ~1 - 1.5 degrees? Thanks. Jeffrey You definitely want to do a full alignment after installing the KCA334 Kit. Caster, Camber, Toe, etc. -Mike Paisan http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/145749898/original.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://www.whiteline.com.au/images/logos/perf1.jpg 11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts. Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us. Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber |AIM: AZP Installs "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.