elaforest Posted November 12, 2010 Share Posted November 12, 2010 Is the car paid off, if so do you want to start a new loan for the WRX. Take the 40% which is 900$ and have it fixed somewhere else. But the new wrx is hot, personally I like the sedan. Cheap plastic interior though but great performance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05-LGT Posted November 16, 2010 Author Share Posted November 16, 2010 @LGT_King-- Is there a particular thinking behind why this would fit under rust perforation warranty? I'm pretty sure my warranty is gone as it's an 05. I guess it depends on how they calculate it but I'm assuming it's from day of purchase. SOA communicated back directly to me. I'm communicating directly with their facotry field manager. @elaforest-- The car is paid off. I'm sure the 40% off deal is only if I use "their" body shop. The independent shops I visited also recommended that I should use subaru's appointed shop as then they will be responsible / liable for the work done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LGT_King Posted November 16, 2010 Share Posted November 16, 2010 Not sure how it would, just thought it might be worth asking based on seeing the rust on the hole that still attached. I have seen captive nuts for seats (they are exposed in the transmission tunnel) snap away from the bodywork on subies before. Just seems like a flaw more than a result from an impact/usage especially since from the collective garage and actual mechanics on here have never seen anything like it. If you do get it fixed it really is not that big of an issue, there is little to no pressure on that part of the car during normal usage. My guess is that about $5-600 of that price tag is for removing/installing the transmission. Just sucks that they want to charge you that much to fix it. I am guessing the SOA guy saw the pics? Or did they actually send someone out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Verwilderd Posted November 19, 2010 Share Posted November 19, 2010 @LGT_King-- Is there a particular thinking behind why this would fit under rust perforation warranty? I'm pretty sure my warranty is gone as it's an 05. I guess it depends on how they calculate it but I'm assuming it's from day of purchase. SOA communicated back directly to me. I'm communicating directly with their facotry field manager. I think his thinking was that the rust warranty is for 5 years/unlimited miles (so it could still be intact)...but if rust had developed in that area (unlikely, but possible) and nowhere else, that it's possible the bolt tore because of the rust and would then be covered. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSpeed Posted November 19, 2010 Share Posted November 19, 2010 You could always just tap a think metal plate to that screw size and slide it under your carpet in to position to thread in to... Very ghetto, but better than $2000... Subaru balks at covering cars in warranty, highly doubtful they'll help you here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05-LGT Posted November 25, 2010 Author Share Posted November 25, 2010 @LGT_King I took my car to the dealer and the SOA regional factory inspector came and looked at the car. The labor costs are expensive because they need to come in from inside the car, remove the seats, carpet, etc., Plus, when they weld they need a certain amount of clearance of all things electrical so they need to remove some components. If they went from underneath, they would have to drop the transmission and because they're a body shop, they don't have the expertise to do that and would have to get that done by the dealer techs. And they could probably burn the carpet. @Verwilderd RE: Rust The SOA guy said that he thought the rust around the bolts is present because that side probably broke off first and has been like this for a while. But you make good point that if it was due to rust, it should be covered. I'll ask around to see what other people think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Verwilderd Posted November 29, 2010 Share Posted November 29, 2010 @LGT_King I took my car to the dealer and the SOA regional factory inspector came and looked at the car. The labor costs are expensive because they need to come in from inside the car, remove the seats, carpet, etc., Plus, when they weld they need a certain amount of clearance of all things electrical so they need to remove some components. If they went from underneath, they would have to drop the transmission and because they're a body shop, they don't have the expertise to do that and would have to get that done by the dealer techs. And they could probably burn the carpet. . It's crazy how such a simple thing to repair can be so difficult to get at and do thus making what would be a cheap and easy job into a complicated one....Cars are funny like that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSpeed Posted November 29, 2010 Share Posted November 29, 2010 Don't laugh, but I'd highly consider JBWelding a solution based on your options... JBWeld holds very well and you can tap and thread it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homemade WRX Posted November 29, 2010 Share Posted November 29, 2010 looking at the rust from the 'vibrated free' bolt hole, I'm going to say that it had backed out a long while ago or was left out sometime. The ripped sheetmetal would have happened from fatigue of flexing from every shift and eventually would break/tear as seen. If both bolts were torqued down, you would have had to use some VERY substantial force to rip it out, as it would have to flex the sheetmetal, bushing and/or bolt. Slop in the bolt hole would get the bolt out of the equation however. As for solutions now, they all involve some detail of fab work and knowing how to weld. easiest would be to get section of sheetmetal with the nut welded to backside and bolt it to the bushing. Now, bolt up the other half and line up the shifter...now the sheetmetal should be flush against the chassis and you can tack weld the back side of it in place. Remove shifter and bushing and trim the excess sheetmetal. Weld it up and prosper. You'll probably want to have cleaned up and cutaway a nice section and prefit the sheetmetal section to sit flush where the old hole was. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05-LGT Posted December 7, 2010 Author Share Posted December 7, 2010 @Homemade WRX I talked about the "order" of which the events happened with a couple of people. I think most people thought that the sheet metal tore free first, since it seems really unlikely that a bolt would wiggle free by itself AND strip the thread. RE: weld process SOA rep said they "support" any fix where the the whole sheet metal segment is replaced because it would compromise their "unibody" construction. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishbone Posted December 7, 2010 Share Posted December 7, 2010 This is what happens when you try to have sex in the car and the woman stands on the wrong stick. Damn women. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05-LGT Posted February 9, 2011 Author Share Posted February 9, 2011 Ok. So I need to get this fixed now and would appreciate if anyone has a detailed walkthru for the tear-down so I can try to do some this weekend and save on labor costs. There was a commercial one on the forums but it doesn't really have the steps so I'm a bit at a loss here. Thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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