pleaidestar Posted March 8, 2014 Share Posted March 8, 2014 The clutch in my car gets a little soft in stop and go traffic and I'm betting its a seal problem in the slave only because if I bleed it it feels normal but in the same breath the fluid in there is a little dark so that could definitely be associated. Fluid can thin out over time with condensation and weather can absolutely affect it, fluid it can freeze and sweat. Granted the temperatures will need to be extreme with brand new fresh dot3. I just got my newest to me wagon back in august and haven't replaced the fluid since but that is coming up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boostgt2 Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 Went ahead and ordered Goodrich stainless steel braided line, new slave and master cylinder. Probably put them on this weekend and I will let everyone know if it fixes the spongy cold clutch problem. Thanks again for everyone's helpful advice and input. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boostgt2 Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 Oops posted twice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pleaidestar Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 You will love the stainless lines, only thing left to better the pedal feel on stock brakes after those are a master cylinder brace. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boostgt2 Posted March 11, 2014 Share Posted March 11, 2014 You will love the stainless lines, only thing left to better the pedal feel on stock brakes after those are a master cylinder brace. Stainless braided line is for the clutch line to slave cylinder but I will buying the stainless braided lines for brakes tonight also with slotted rotors and pads. My brakes do feel a little spongy as well but that should take care of it. Who makes a good brace for master cylinder? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pleaidestar Posted March 11, 2014 Share Posted March 11, 2014 The one grimmspeed made was the jumpoff part....mighty pricey but a good part. Lol forgot we were talking about the clutch..but yea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arnold16890 Posted March 13, 2014 Share Posted March 13, 2014 DUDE THANKS! I spent hours trying to figure it out, and it felt like the more i tried to bleed the system the worse it got. I even called a "mechanic" on craigslist and we couldnt figure it out. I came back and was looking to buy a new master and slave cylinder, you saved me more money than geico. Your post deserves to be pinned! Alright guys I finally got it. Dont know why I had to do it this way but it worked. First I started out by getting some small clear hose, Redbull can, and a brake bleeder vacuum bottle with a nipple port out the top. Steps: 1. Fill the vacuum bottle with fluid then attach a 12in piece of clear hose to the top nipple, tip the bottle upside down filling the hose with fluid (make sure you have no air bubbles in the clear hose) 2. Attach the other end of the clear hose to nipple on the clutch master cylinder (again making sure no air bubbles are there) 3. With the clutch pedal in the up position open the bleeder nipple and you will see fluid go into the master cylinder, close nipple. Pump clutch 4-5 times and it will get stiffer, repeat with pedal up open bleeder more fluid will go into master cylinder, repeat until no more fluid will go into master cylinder when you open the nipple about 3 times should do it (making sure no air bubbles enter with fluid) pressure will return to pedal 4. Attach a 6-8in clear hose to the slave cylinder nipple then into the can. 5. Now having someone pushing the clutch down open the slave cylinder nipple, fluid will now come out into your can of choice (Redbull for me) then close right before fluid is finished flowing out. 6. Now you will back to no pressure at the pedal, (DONT WORRY) Repeat step 3 and pressure will return. 7. Now when you get pressure back repeat step 5.(again will be back to no pressure at clutch pedal, why the fluid wont pull from the reservoir not sure but repeat step 3 again. 8. Repeat step 5 9. Repeat step 3, you may repeat steps 3 and 5 as many times as you desire,(make sure your ending step is 3 adding fluid to the master cylinder to top it off) I did it 4 times and perfection. Clutch is 100 times better than it was before I started this task, slides right into every gear and clutch engagment is more around 2inches from the floor. Also I installed my perrin shifter bushings (round front ones and rear position) also made a big difference. I can provide pictures of any tools if anyone needs. Yes I did remove intercooler for easier access to slave cylinder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boostgt2 Posted July 18, 2014 Share Posted July 18, 2014 Forgot all about this thread and wanted to give everyone an update. Got the goodrich line installed and while I was doing that found that the slave cylinder seal was bad and leaking so I replaced it, also since I had so much trouble bleeding the master cylinder I just decided replace it as well. I now have all new clutch fluid setup and words can not say how much better the pedal and engagement of the clutch feels as well as it going in and out of every gear, even before its up to normal temps. Best advice I can give anyone having these problems spend the $100 and just replace everything. Also with the new master cylinder I was able to bleed the clutch like any other clutch by just pushing the pedal down then opening the slave cylinder bleeder, did it about 6 times and perfection!!! Good Luck to all and let me know if anyone needs advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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