Door Lock Actuator Problems

[ryanh]

Not sure about the specific equipment, but I have an update on my door locks. I had a conversation with the service manager of the dealership at which I purchased my 7 year / 100K gold plus extended warranty. That talk went quite well. Once the actuators were diagnosed as in-operable by CarToys, the dealership replaced them. We are back on track with excellent service... recovery.

 

As for the head gasket concerns, check your year and model here...

 

http://www.girardgibbs.com/subaru-oil-consumption-class-action-lawsuit/

 

...seems they have fixed the oil leak issue in newer models.

[EDV11]

Just found this. Is this the correct flat shaft? There is a drop down and you can select 20mm flat D...

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mabuchi-Nichibo-Door-Lock-Motor-Short-Long-Flat-D-Round-Collar-FC280PC22125-/111198111739?var=&hash=item19e3ec87fb:m:mETANqFNBgmy6A7-sXogfPg

 

Hace you tested this?

[JJr]

Just found this. Is this the correct flat shaft? There is a drop down and you can select 20mm flat D...

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mabuchi-Nichibo-Door-Lock-Motor-Short-Long-Flat-D-Round-Collar-FC280PC22125-/111198111739?var=&hash=item19e3ec87fb:m:mETANqFNBgmy6A7-sXogfPg

 

Ordered one, going to give it a shot in the next 2 weeks when I replace my front speakers,I'll report back.

[legacyabuser]

This is an awesome write up so thanks to the op

 

I have a 2006 Subaru legacy the passenger side rear door is not opening from the inside or out, is there any way to open up the trim without damaging or drilling through the interior trim, any help or suggestion would be greatly appreciated

[relative4]

Removing the interior trim is pretty easy and definitely does not require drilling. Your Haynes manual or the vacation pics have the full details. A set of PLASTIC panel removers from Harbor Freight, etc. is often an asset for tasks like this.

[sigmafour]

I think he was asking how you take the trim off if you can't open the door. Answer... it's not very easy.

 

You can remove the screws okay but the panel needs to be popped off around the edges which will be difficult but not impossible, maybe not completely impossible, next to impossible. It won't be a good time... once you can pop enough off then you can try and lift it up off the top edge by the window and maybe pull it back far enough to get inside and see if you can open the door. Not an easy job.

[relative4]

Oh sorry, obviously didn't read carefully enough.

 

I would start with a slim jim to open the door bypassing the handles.

[sigmafour]

I tried that once and the wrapper tore and then the meat dropped inside the car and after a few days it stank something awful.

[relative4]

Eat me.

[legacyabuser]

thanks for the info guys ill give it a try.

 

just a bit more info: my outer door handle does nothing(assuming inner clips are broken) . inner door handle does nothing either.

i can see a cable that is not attached to the inner door handle lock ( from what i am guessing)

 

im hoping i dont have to gut the interior trim to get to the cables and lock.

also the window doesnt work either.(thank god it is fully closed for winter driving) lol

[JJr]

Damn, that is amazing, what a PITA. GL

[sigmafour]

how are you seeing the cable? Can you get some long needle nosed pliers in there and give it a tug?

[chrisay]

Post some photos of what you are looking at legacyabuser.

[BigTDogg MA]

Thanks to Chrisay's suggestion I opened mine up today and repaired successfully. The motor is in a sealed plastic case which can be fairly easiy split open by running a craft knife along the seam.

 

It's a poor design on Subaru's behalf. Motor sits at the bottom of the case where molten grease collects (and there is a LOT of it). Hopefully with all the excess cleaned out now I am good for another 6 years.

 

I wrote up a DIY:

 

http://forum.liberty.asn.au/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=10479

 

Great write up sir, thank you!

 

did you have to remove the window as per the FSM, or were you able to leave it in?

[BigTDogg MA]

Just did this yesterday, followed the write up as guidance. USDM cars don't have a cable to the exterior handle, there's a solid rod. Easy enough to work around.

 

Didn't have to remove the window, but it takes some patience maneuvering the unit around taking out and reinstalling.

[niko_2014]

hello from france !

 

Just bought this BP 2006 with doors locking failure. except trunk

 

I tried with the DIY in this thread. i cleaned all inside the white box on the driver door. but i think the little engine is dead

 

12v on it and it turns very slowly and stops.

 

please look at the video :

 

 

i am surprised that the same problem in the 4 doors !

 

if i change this engine with an ebay model Mabuchi, do you believe it will solve the problem of this door only or all doors ?

 

Thanks if you can help and sorry for my english

[Tronic]

Strange how I have posted the solution to this problem and no one is following it.

 

You DO NOT need to replace the electric motor you need to clean it.

 

Stick it in a glass jar of petrol with a low Voltage DC supply attached to it and it self cleans itself.The problem is the oil on the motor brushes and armature.

 

Change the petrol a couple of times until it remains clear and then hit the motor with compressed air before running it outside of the submerged petrol and its fixed.

 

Did it with both my rear door locks two years ago and no problems since.

 

Petrol in liquid form is not flammable, petrol vapor when mixed with the appropriate proportion of air is extremely flammable. You keep the motor submerged in the petrol and run it. It actually pumps the fuel through itself if you try it.

Edited January 6, 2018 by Tronic
additional info

[niko_2014]

sorry but i cleaned perfectly this motor and no change

 

when i link it directly to the battery it turns slowly and then stops, you can see that on the video.

 

is it normal or not ?

[B1G_xyz]

Reviving a old thread here I know but I've tried and failed at getting the lock actuator off. I followed the write-up but it's missing the info I need. The bar that connects the outside handle lock to the latch; I have no idea how to get it off. I've tried twisting, pulling, and pushing with no success so I just put everything back together. Sucks that my motor gave out on the driver side out of all places.

[apexi]

I've never done it myself, is the plastic retainer piece yellow like in the video below?

 

Then at around 6:08 it looks like another rod is disconnected, with a green piece.

[B1G_xyz]

I've never done it myself, is the plastic retainer piece yellow like in the video below?

 

 

 

 

Then at around 6:08 it looks like another rod is disconnected, with a green piece.

That's exactly what I needed, thanks!

[keylime]

Door actuator sticky, motor ok - with video

 

Hi,

 

I have been having central locking issues on 3/4 doors on my wagon (2005 Legacy Sport). Threads on this forum (eg https://bit.ly/2RHh4g7) suggested the motors often get greased up and give out. I've taken a closer look at the back passenger door and the motor seems ok, but the mechanism seems to get stuck.

 

With the actuator plugged in to the electrics, I use the driver's door central locking switch. I flick switch to 'unlock' and the motor moves a little, flick again and it moves a little, flick again and it finally moves it's whole range. This is in the video: https://bit.ly/34oHbgR. I suppose either the motor lacks the power, or the mechanism has too much friction.

 

To test the the motor is functioning, I take the spindle thread off and put in back in the housing - the shaft spins just fine. I'm reluctant to tear apart the actuator any further to lube it as the mechanism has a stiff spring, and getting it back together with basic tools is possibly gonna be a pain. Also, it appears to have ample clean white grease.

 

Any advice at this point?

 

(this is also a thread of its own on this forum: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/door-actuator-sticky-motor-ok-video-282402.html)

 

Picture: https://www.dropbox.com/s/5fmebcukkdi0tvj/IMG_7533.JPG?dl=0

 

Keylime

 

 

Strange how I have posted the solution to this problem and no one is following it.

 

You DO NOT need to replace the electric motor you need to clean it.

 

Stick it in a glass jar of petrol with a low Voltage DC supply attached to it and it self cleans itself.The problem is the oil on the motor brushes and armature.

 

Change the petrol a couple of times until it remains clear and then hit the motor with compressed air before running it outside of the submerged petrol and its fixed.

 

Did it with both my rear door locks two years ago and no problems since.

 

Petrol in liquid form is not flammable, petrol vapor when mixed with the appropriate proportion of air is extremely flammable. You keep the motor submerged in the petrol and run it. It actually pumps the fuel through itself if you try it.

[keylime]

Update on my earlier post.

 

I got these new motors off amazon. They slot in fine once the actuator housing is open. Though, important, the shaft on the rear is 1mm too long. This prevents the motor from turning. I shaved the housing with a craft knife and presto, it works.

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LXS38R9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[chrisay]

Mate your motors aren't working. Can also get these on ebay or aliexpress

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mabuchi-Nichibo-Door-Lock-Motor-Short-Long-Flat-D-Round-Collar-FC280PC22125-/111198111739?var=&hash=item19e3ec87fb:m:mETANqFNBgmy6A7-sXogfPg

 

 

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33017943556.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.28d4105d3t2aej&algo_pvid=9a808c97-38fc-4779-bbe9-13325c58d32d&algo_expid=9a808c97-38fc-4779-bbe9-13325c58d32d-21&btsid=0ab6fb8815865060595327411e7f21&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_

 

 

These are posted to assist do your own checking to be 100% sure they are correct before purchasing.