Getting the right SAFC

[Countryboy_LGT]

I have been looking into getting a SAFC for my subaru and wasnt sure which was the best to get. I have been looking at the 2nd gen Apexi SAFC. Does anyone have a SAFC installed on their car and if so is it hard to do? Any suggestions on a good controller would be great too.

[Jeepaddict]

What modifications have you or are you making that requires you add this device?

[ineedmorepsi]

If you MUST have an SAFC then at minimum get SAFC2 but with it you can't even adjust timing with those. Personally if your gonna use a piggy back on the stock ECU then just get a Greddy Emanage for the same price(you gotta splice them in just like those SAFCs). At least you can tune with emanage: datalog, raise rev limit, remove speed limit, adjust timing map, fuel map and many other things. They're cheap too $100-200.

 

If you do a WRX swap with WRX ECU then you can just use opensource or other free engine managements and flash your ECU like me.

[Countryboy_LGT]

So far just a header, exhaust, and intake. short throw too but that doesnt have anything to do with it. just kind of want to tune it a lil and see if it would help or change it. Thanks for the help. ill take a look at the Greddy SAFC.

[one bad bg]

i have a first gen apexi safc installed on my 240. the only power mod i have is a cai. a lot of people have said that unless you have a turbo or bigger injectors, then theres no reason for a safc. but you can change fuel curves with it. i did notice a difference in power with my 240. however, the install is very.......tricky. because you have to tap 7 wires into the harness that goes into your ecu. if you tap the wrong wires, you could blow your motor. now once the install is done properly, thats only half the battle. if you dont know what your doing on the safc, or how to calibrate it to your car, then youre deffinatly gonna blow your motor. you need to do a looooottttttt of research before installing one of these. im expeirenced in this stuff and after the install AND calibration, it still took me a good few hours to get my car to run right. but once you have done all that and you start to change fuel curves, you will notice a difference in power, even with just minor engine mods.

[Countryboy_LGT]

Thanks for the help. I was lookin at the manual on how to install them and it did look tricky taping into those wires. but i didnt find anything on how to set it up once you got it hooked up. Blowing a motor would not be one on the list of things to do at this point in time. But im going to try and look more into it on how the setup for them goes.

[one bad bg]

my advice on that, if youre not expeirenced. a shop will install and set it up for you for about 100 bucks. bit the bullet and spend it. better to spend 100 bucks then 2000 bucks on a new engine. when you go to pick up your car, ask them to show you the basics so you dont screw anything up. then DONT MESS WITH IT UNTIL YOU GET HOME!! i cant count how many times my buddys have called me from down the road from Big 3 Racing cause they couldnt wait to get home and they screwed something up and needed me to come fix it. so just be patient and mess with it in your own driveway. once the shop shows you the basics, screwing it up shouldnt be that big of a deal cause you can always reset it to factory. its the initial calibration that messes everyone up. my advice on that. either you or have the shop write down all the calibration numbers. cause if your battery ever dies or you need to replace it, it will completly reset the safc like you just installed it. so get all those numbers in in case that ever happens. you should only ever be messing with 2 settings on the safc. "correction"(cor) thats basically your fuel curve. you have 2 sets of those:HI throttle point(mainly used for racing, HI throttle should be set at 60% or a little higher) and LO throttle point (daily driving, should be set at 50%). the LO throttle correction should be at 0 all the way across the board at all times, unless you upgrade injectors. the HI throttle point is where you can mess around with your fuel curves at WOT. please go to the track to do this. you wont "feel" the power difference pursay. but the track numbers never lie. you dont wanna put too much fuel in, so start out with little correction changes at each run down the track. theoretically, as long as youre consistant, your .25 mile time should drop, drop, drop, drop, then rise. when it starts to rise again, thats when you know youve bumped the fuel up too hi, so back it down a little and theres your sweet spot. if you want, even though its a different car, i can take a vid of my safc. going through the settings and show you what to mess with and what to never touch. just so you can get an idea of how easy it is once you know what youre doing. just let me know. i know all this mumbo jumbo sounds confusing, but once you know what youre doing you say "oh, thats what he was talking about"