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Assuming that your car was @ Stage 0, what could you do with 1,000$? It can be anything within that price range. I'm asking this question because I want a rough idea on where to start. I have 1998 GT KYBs installed in my L but I'm looking for a reduced ride height. I'm also looking for poly mounts for the engine & tranny. Any ideas will be greatly appreciated.
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With $1000, I would get better suspension, some window tint, and some better brakes (since I've already got some decent tires and wheels).

 

As I'm sure you've read, modding a car is supposed to be to your tastes. But you should always put brakes, suspension, and tires into your car before power mods. Going fast and then wrecking since you didn't have adequate tires or brakes leaves you with no car.

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With $1000, I would get better suspension, some window tint, and some better brakes (since I've already got some decent tires and wheels).

 

As I'm sure you've read, modding a car is supposed to be to your tastes. But you should always put brakes, suspension, and tires into your car before power mods. Going fast and then wrecking since you didn't have adequate tires or brakes leaves you with no car.

 

:whore:

 

First mod I did was upgrade my brakes to WRX brakes on the front and Outback brakes on the rear.. even though power is still stock, but I can stop on a dime!

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these guys speak the truth!! any bushing that you can update with GroupN stuff will help out beyond your imagination also... our cars are all more worn out than you would think! i would start with getting the chassis up to date and then work on other mods like brakes and suspension
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I failed at my 'mod.' The brakes on my Outback had a horrible shudder, so I replaced all four disks and all 8 pads with Hawk HPS Sport pads. They are fantastic, but all that means is that I can literally lock up my shitty tires with no effort, lol. They make for a cool high-pitched squeal tho!

 

So in other words, if you do your brakes, do your tires, otherwise it's pointless. Too bad I'm too broke to do that anytime soon, lol.

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not totally sure yet. need good low cost brakes. i have been looking at the reviews on this site up at the top of the page.

 

I'm planning to do a WRX brake setup with slotted rotors because I'm a bit of a lead foot and I like to stop where I want to stop as well...

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I'm planning to do a WRX brake setup with slotted rotors because I'm a bit of a lead foot and I like to stop where I want to stop as well...

 

Slotted rotors won't make you stop better.

 

The more mass you have, the more friction your brakes create which yields better braking performance.

 

Slotted rotors prevent brake fade and if you're experiencing brake fade on street driving.. maybe you should stop driving like you're on a race track. Brake fade is caused by a gas that's released between the rotor and the pad.. the slots on the rotor take out a slice of pad which eliminates this gas, and returns your stopping power. You'll go through pads fast though!

 

If you get a good set of solid rotors, like Brembo blanks and a good set of pads like Hawk HPS, you'll never experience brake fade, you'll stop on a dime, and get a lot of kms out of your setup.

 

What's the average wrx brake system cost?

 

I got my calipers for $150 USD from Nasioc. It's a straight bolt off/bolt on application.. you just need WRX rotors and pads for your vehicle.

 

If you do this, you'll want to increase your rear brakes as well to Outback brakes. This will offset the increased brake bias to the front so you won't constantly nose dive hard. Outback calipers are probably cheaper too.

 

When buying new brakes, I get 2005 WRX rotors/pads for the front, 2003 Outback rotors/pads for the rear. Nice little Frankenstein setup ;)

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So you dont have to change any of the major suspension parts to swich to the wrx and outback rotor set up? just a simple remove and slap the new ones on? the bolt pattern on those the same as our cars?

 

That's right! You'll need the calipers and caliper bracket for the front.. the two bolts that mount the Legacy caliper are in perfect alignment with the WRX caliper mounting bolts. Rotors are a perfect swap as well.

 

The rears are similar, however the rear dust plate, you'll need a die grinder to cut off the lip because the new Outback rotor is larger than the plate, whereas the stock rotor fits inside the plate.

 

You'll need the caliper bracket for the rear as well (the bracket is where the pads sit inside.)

 

Let me be specific. It's only the 2005 WRX generation.. I think its 2002 - 2005? Not the STi, just the WRX. For Outback, you can use Outback rear rotors, the 2003 year.. I think its 2000 - 2003? Or, the Legacy H6 sedan in the same year.. I'm not 100% sure about the H6 years though.

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Jay-D thank you! You saved me from a lot of typing. It seems nobody really understands that blanks are far better than slotted or cross drilled rotors. Most people buy them for "bling".

 

Haha.. no problem!

 

I don't get it either.. when I upgraded to WRX, my stopping power is insane.. if I need to brake hard.. I can brake hard.. come to a safe stop but still have more braking power at my disposal.

 

11.4" rotors :wub:

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How long do you plan to own this car? If less than a year or two - my upgrades would be in something easily transferable between Subarus. Namely - I'd get some decent rims. Say used 04 bbs rims in good shape with decent tires should fit under 1000 with some luck. Will instantly upgrade handling/acceleration and looks and be transferable to your next car.
666
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Thanks Jay-D. That helped out alot. I wish i would have found this site about 2 weeks ago cuz i just did all my breaks so they are good for awhile now.

 

And baddog- look on page one. Jay-d Tell you everything you need to swap to the wrx fronts and outback rears. sounds super simple and easy to do. and you only have to modify your dust cover.

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