lionel025 Posted March 3, 2010 Share Posted March 3, 2010 Hi everyone. I purchased a 1991 Legacy L fwd about 4 months ago. When I first got it everything was perfect. Two days later though the check engine light came on when I turned on the car then eventually went off (soft code). But then it came back and never left. I tried to run a MODIS on it to find the issue but it wouldnt make a connection. Then I brought it to Pep Boys (a bad decision I know) and after 2 hours of them struggling with it they told me it was the oxygen sensor. I replaced and tried to clear the code but it was still there. After doing research I found out that if you plug the two wires under the dash together then it blinks in a code to tell you whats wrong. It is giving me two long blinks and one short one which I found out to be the water temperature sensor. I replaced both sensors, coolant, and the thermostat yet I still cant get rid of the code. Also the radiator fans are always on starting immediately when you put the car in the start position. Please help because I haven't smogged the car and the DMV won't give me another extension. I no longer have a form of transportation. Thanks!P.S.- I left the two wires plugged in under the car for about a week before I understood what they meant. Could this have done any damage to the ECU? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bdubs Posted March 3, 2010 Share Posted March 3, 2010 Leaving them plugged in probably did nothing to harm your ecu. The OBDI is tough, sometimes it is difficult to clear the ECU, even after the situation has been resolved. SO, you may not have your problem anymore, yet that code is still stored within the computer.I advise you try this D-check method: http://legacycentral.org/library/literature/codes.htm to be sure you just aren't seeing old codes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lionel025 Posted March 3, 2010 Author Share Posted March 3, 2010 Then why would the fans always be running? Clearing the code wont get rid of that symptom. Well that link explains a lot. The site I was on said to connect both connectors to read the error codes not the black one only. When it says connect both connectors at the appropriate time does that mean when you plugged in the green one before to do the D-check? And what exactly is the D-check mode? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lionel025 Posted March 4, 2010 Author Share Posted March 4, 2010 So after reading the codes properly I have 2 codes. 21 and 35. The canister purge solenoid valve makes sense because there is a lot of pressure when I open my gas cap. Can someone tell me where the part is located because I am trying to follow the lines out of the canister but they go under the intake to where they are no longer visible. Also after reading that link there still is an issue with the water temperature sensor because its fail-safe operation is to keep the fans on which is what they are doing. I'm hoping I just bought a bad sensor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bdubs Posted March 4, 2010 Share Posted March 4, 2010 The canister purge solenoid is a common error code. It's located under the passenger side intake runners, and you really need to remove the air intake components to get to it, and probably even see it. Its possible you got a faulty temp. sensor, and you also replaced the copper one near the front of the engine? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lionel025 Posted March 4, 2010 Author Share Posted March 4, 2010 Okay the first image is of the sensors I replaced. Is one of these the copper ones you were talking about because these were at the back of the engine? The other pic is of what I believe the be the canister purge solenoid. This is taken over the passenger side intake. Am I right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lionel025 Posted March 4, 2010 Author Share Posted March 4, 2010 Also does anyone the voltage that should be going to the sensors? I cant find that and if I did then I'd know if it's a wiring issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bdubs Posted March 5, 2010 Share Posted March 5, 2010 Yep, that is the copper sensor, and that is the valve you need to replace. Not sure on the voltage, I don't have my FSM here at my house, but I'll see if I can find it on line. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lionel025 Posted March 5, 2010 Author Share Posted March 5, 2010 Okay thanks I really appreciate it. Im just in a pickle right now with no car:spin: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lionel025 Posted March 6, 2010 Author Share Posted March 6, 2010 Did you find out the voltage? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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