Ksport BBK 8 piston kit

[krylon]

Its science and fact that applying more pressure points to the brake pads, you provide the force more evenly on the rotor... That's it! Ksport has a lighter and faster cooling body than AP's. I do prefer the look of the AP's over the Ksport's..! As far as 4/8 posts go... For example, go to a recently (1 post day) cleaned window on your car. Take a sheet of paper towel, fold in half . Press the paper towel on the window with only 2 point of your fingers and move back and forth a few times. Now, look at the dirty side.... Do the same thing over again, on the opposite side using 4 fingers.

See the amount of carbon soil you picked up between the two sides. This gives an idea of contact area on the piston> pad > rotor.

 

A far as temps, I can only speak for the race spec pads after an event or a specific lap count. Within a few minutes or so of completion, tires,brakes, wheels temps are checked and are +600 degrees. This is even with custom cooling panels/ducts. We are still working out the bug with the cooling. From my knowledge these race spec pads are good for 1500 degrees and im sure not my sets have been near there. Even with attempting temp paint on the rotors edge.. its still hard to say, at least w/ our budget. I would never attempt to hit the street w/ these pads... requires a decent amount of warm up.

Ksport DD's pads are suitable for what they are and do not coat my RPF1's in too much brake dust after playing around a little. This doesn't mean i don't use other company pads...! Brand names: Don't forget, just like auto/mechanical batteries, only 1 or 2 large corporations manufacturer em', they trickle down the line and the smaller companies have their labels slapped on em, selling them for HUGE profit. The same is said with KSPORT and all the brake kit/pad companies out their. I dabbled in the larger end of the part industry for 3-4 years and learned a thing or two about name brands and their dark secrets. However, Ksport is a name brand, just new stateside, ksport is big even in South Africa.

As for pads, as long as you have a pad part number, you basically can order from nearly any company you want to. the first time i wanted to buy an after market pad, I called Ksport and asked for the replacement part number and little did I know, I had a set of AP's laying around w/ CP3215D50 and they matched up perfectly. Ksport suggested Ferodo FRP21, which what I think the Ksport pads are. They look alike in every way including compound and back plate. Even the brake dust, color, texture and cleaning off is nearly exactly the same.

 

PF pads.. are good qaulity for daily use.. not other.. you bring those to the track, you better bring a back up. Pads fail under heat, and i have even seen some crumble right off the backing plate upon inspection. I have also seen some pads turn into what looks like black pearl, with a glass slick feeling. These are all due to heat/gas temps.

PAGID, this is funny.. this is one of the companies that are manufactured by a large company (TMD) and then slaps their label on em.

FERODO: Great pads, I even us on my bikes and I like the way they separate their divisions.

 

Overall, do your research, chances are learn what compounds best suit your needs and who sells them at the best price.

[krylon]

Just a heads up, I am trading one of my GC8's for a swapped Forester and the buyer wants to keep his custom powder coated Brembos'. This means I MIGHT have a KSPORT BB kit for sale w/ 5x114 . This is, if I don't decide to swap over 5x114 hubs. I will be listing F/S on another Forum(s), if I cant talk him into a even trade by the months end. If we do an even trade, I will be selling his anyway

[SubyShop.com]

Right, I understand the science behind it. It's not just a matter of more pressure points, but the size of each pressure point as well. If the KSPORT pistons are similarly sized, then yeah they would provide more force to the rotor. The attached picture is probably more accurate.

 

Personally when it comes to brake pads, I like to know who I'm trusting my life to. I understand that if you do the research or know an "in" at the company, the private label pads are probably made by the big names.

 

But, the same quality controls may not be in place for private label products. In the end, you have to know what pad you have to determine if it will meet the requirements in question. A street pad on the track won't cut it, like you mention. And vice versa. I don't understand why KSPORT is so reluctant to include brand name pads with their kits, other than the potential to make more money for them, which is understandable.

 

Just because a pad brand is made by larger company doesn't really mean much in itself. Ferodo is made by Federal Mogul, for example. The KSPORTs do appear to be a good BBK option with proper research regarding their mystery pads. Thanks for sharing your input

 

-Franz

 

 

Its science and fact that applying more pressure points to the brake pads, you provide the force more evenly on the rotor... That's it! Ksport has a lighter and faster cooling body than AP's. I do prefer the look of the AP's over the Ksport's..! As far as 4/8 posts go... For example, go to a recently (1 post day) cleaned window on your car. Take a sheet of paper towel, fold in half . Press the paper towel on the window with only 2 point of your fingers and move back and forth a few times. Now, look at the dirty side.... Do the same thing over again, on the opposite side using 4 fingers.

See the amount of carbon soil you picked up between the two sides. This gives an idea of contact area on the piston> pad > rotor.

 

A far as temps, I can only speak for the race spec pads after an event or a specific lap count. Within a few minutes or so of completion, tires,brakes, wheels temps are checked and are +600 degrees. This is even with custom cooling panels/ducts. We are still working out the bug with the cooling. From my knowledge these race spec pads are good for 1500 degrees and im sure not my sets have been near there. Even with attempting temp paint on the rotors edge.. its still hard to say, at least w/ our budget. I would never attempt to hit the street w/ these pads... requires a decent amount of warm up.

Ksport DD's pads are suitable for what they are and do not coat my RPF1's in too much brake dust after playing around a little. This doesn't mean i don't use other company pads...! Brand names: Don't forget, just like auto/mechanical batteries, only 1 or 2 large corporations manufacturer em', they trickle down the line and the smaller companies have their labels slapped on em, selling them for HUGE profit. The same is said with KSPORT and all the brake kit/pad companies out their. I dabbled in the larger end of the part industry for 3-4 years and learned a thing or two about name brands and their dark secrets. However, Ksport is a name brand, just new stateside, ksport is big even in South Africa.

As for pads, as long as you have a pad part number, you basically can order from nearly any company you want to. the first time i wanted to buy an after market pad, I called Ksport and asked for the replacement part number and little did I know, I had a set of AP's laying around w/ CP3215D50 and they matched up perfectly. Ksport suggested Ferodo FRP21, which what I think the Ksport pads are. They look alike in every way including compound and back plate. Even the brake dust, color, texture and cleaning off is nearly exactly the same.

 

PF pads.. are good qaulity for daily use.. not other.. you bring those to the track, you better bring a back up. Pads fail under heat, and i have even seen some crumble right off the backing plate upon inspection. I have also seen some pads turn into what looks like black pearl, with a glass slick feeling. These are all due to heat/gas temps.

PAGID, this is funny.. this is one of the companies that are manufactured by a large company (TMD) and then slaps their label on em.

FERODO: Great pads, I even us on my bikes and I like the way they separate their divisions.

 

Overall, do your research, chances are learn what compounds best suit your needs and who sells them at the best price.

[Brian.G]

Dinky piston sizes are the point...

 

If you have 2 pistons, each 1" in diameter you have an effective piston surface area of 1.57 square inches.

 

If you have 4 pistons, each with a .5" diameter, you have an effective piston surface area of .785 square inches.

 

The idea behind variable diameter pistons is to alter engagement profile. If you think of the brakes as a combination of similar systems (which it is), you can see that your foot-force and master-cylinder area determine line pressure. That line pressure divided by piston surface area gives the resulting force going to the brake pad. A larger area means less force on the pad, and will thus be the first piston to move. So as you lean on the pedal, the large pistons move first and engage the pad. As you get more on the brakes, you move the small pistons and further engage the brakes. That allows you to retain some level of low-pressure brake feel, and prevents you from having to stand on the pedal to get some effective stopping power.

 

Larger calipers with more pistons also let you run more pads. That K-sport one looks like it uses a single pad, but calipers with 6 and 8 pistons from Brembo allow you to use multiple pads per side, which improves pad wear by allowing uniform pad application.

I signed up because this was the first thread about K sport calipers that came up in google. Its pathetic of me in ways, as this thread is about a million years old, BUT, I couldn't help but notice the bit I highlighted above. Its incorrect, and because this thread features in a few searches I have to state otherwise. The small pistons will move first since the displaced volume behind them is smaller. These are always placed to the bottom most part of the caliper once its mounted(when caliper is behind hub as in the legacy). The reason being, that the small ones extend first, and start to squeeze disc. As the disc rotates through caliper it has now increased in temperature considerably. Due to this increased surface temperature, the disc now needs more clamping pressure as it rotates through caliper in order to keep the drag/friction values equal from the bottom most leading edge where it enters at the lowest temperature, to the top exit side, or trailing edge at the higher point on the caliper. This is why the larger pistons reside to the top portion of the caliper. There larger bore, although slower response time are capable of exerting a greater force for the same line psi feeding all pistons. This method, or as they are better known, 'differential bore calipers' ensures uniform braking/clamp force across the full pad/disc surface. The force applied by the larger pistons is greater since fluid psi is constant over there entire area, but they do move less and therefore last.

 

So to sum up as a rule of thumb for all cars, the side the disc enters first(leading edge) is where you want the small pistons located.

 

Sorry for being pedantic, but I couldn't let it slide, see Pascals Law for more reading.

 

Brian,