amp27 Posted December 9, 2009 Share Posted December 9, 2009 got a strange problem with the brakes on a 1996 lgt. when you do press the brake the brakes work but you have to push very very far and even then the braking power is very bad. i checked the rotors and pads for one tire and look like new for each. not sure on the other 3. even the e brake as sh*t stopping power. i pulled it going like 5mph and rolled for 20 feet. brake fluid level is almost maxed. i was told that the brakes may need to be bleed. if that sounds right how might i go about doing that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fatboy1214 Posted December 9, 2009 Share Posted December 9, 2009 your gunna need a friend pump the brakes and hold them down and yell at your friend to crack the bleeder valve then air will come up and when fluid comes out he will close the valve then you will pump the brakes again do that until it seems like just pure fluid comes out right when you open the valve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amp27 Posted December 9, 2009 Author Share Posted December 9, 2009 thanks. will this fix the ebrake problem as well??????????? or is the ebrake not use the same system as the pedal brake? idk. but my ebrake is crap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmb2485 Posted December 10, 2009 Share Posted December 10, 2009 The hand brake is basically a cable operated drum brake that used the inside of the hat on your rear rotors as the drum. I'd pull the brakes apart and make sure everything is installed and working correctly, then just adjust the shoes and you should be good to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98quiksilvergt Posted December 10, 2009 Share Posted December 10, 2009 You can also get one man bleeder screws from advance auto. Then you can do it yourself. They work good. I use them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
httrdd Posted December 10, 2009 Share Posted December 10, 2009 You might have springs broken on your rear breaks. Dont forget that when you depress the front brakes the rears also grab. So if the shoes (drum) or calipers (disk) are not working correctly that might be the reason you are having trouble stopping or the pedal goes to the floor. Start by bleeding breaks and then go from there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amp27 Posted December 10, 2009 Author Share Posted December 10, 2009 yes this weekend for sure. cause i totally took of my MIRROR TODAY. ***t gr ah ge hrmm aH!. funny. very very funny. but ads;flghmslknlrd'; so like i totally need a new mirror or what are the laws with mirrors. its the right mirror. and this is related to the thread i guess cause the abs dont work well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fatboy1214 Posted December 11, 2009 Share Posted December 11, 2009 you technically dont need that miror they used to make honda civics stock without it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bdubs Posted December 11, 2009 Share Posted December 11, 2009 you technically dont need that miror they used to make honda civics stock without it And Chevy Citations! Man, what piles of shit they were. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WESTcoast Posted December 11, 2009 Share Posted December 11, 2009 The hand brake is basically a cable operated drum brake that used the inside of the hat on your rear rotors as the drum. I'd pull the brakes apart and make sure everything is installed and working correctly, then just adjust the shoes and you should be good to go. the problem might be alot simpler than that, his ebrake might just be loose and needs tightening. If you open up your center console towards the edge you will see two screws un do those and you will see your ebrake asemply, you can tighten the cable from this end. you will need a two small wrenches (dont remeber the size off hand) but there is a two bolts somewhere in there that you need to tighten this will give you back the ebrake strengh so that you arent pulling it all the way up to get the lock. If your going to do a whole brake rebuild I would just go with slotted rotors, performance pads, stainless steel brake cables, and bleed your brake line. You will definitely have your braking power back twin fold, I have crosswoth wrx slotted front rotors and bracket and just standard slotted roters in the rear. and stainless steel brake lines it makes a BIG DIFFERENCE! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amp27 Posted December 11, 2009 Author Share Posted December 11, 2009 ok sweet ill fix the ebrake tonight then, i heard it was a cable and figure the cables were like the cable in a bike. i would think. and as for the mirror. do they something i could buy to put over the spot that the mirror mounts? like just a plate type cover and get it painted? so it lookes nice ha. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amp27 Posted December 11, 2009 Author Share Posted December 11, 2009 my dad thought you needed to start what the wheel with the most brake line. is this true for bleeding the brakes. and if so whicj tire is father. does it go RR,RR,FL,FR? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WESTcoast Posted December 12, 2009 Share Posted December 12, 2009 ok sweet ill fix the ebrake tonight then, i heard it was a cable and figure the cables were like the cable in a bike. i would think. and as for the mirror. do they something i could buy to put over the spot that the mirror mounts? like just a plate type cover and get it painted? so it lookes nice ha. like how bad is your mirror broke off, like alot if you find a replacement you should be able to unscrew the rest out and rewire the replacement in. pretty much just like a bike, you just tighten the bolt, test your ebrake, to your likeness. A proper ebrake should hold the car still a quarter- half way up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amp27 Posted December 12, 2009 Author Share Posted December 12, 2009 ok sweet. yea all that left of the mirror is the 3 red parts for the mirror. and that rubberish black part, if i had the mirror it could probably go right back on and work. just so jb weld or something. but the mirror is at the crash site if you now what i mean. and as for the ebrake. fixed. full pull is like a 4 inch grab. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fatboy1214 Posted December 12, 2009 Share Posted December 12, 2009 i say call up the local junkyards and im sure you can fin that mirror for pretty cheap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amp27 Posted December 12, 2009 Author Share Posted December 12, 2009 i bleed them and everything went perfect untill the RR line busted. so now the brake are back to zero braking power. what do i do to fix the brake lines. and its not the braded metals parts. its the "line" the big fing metal line the runs to the firefall. there is a leak right above the gas tank...i can see the fluid comeing down the tank and the whole wheel and wheel well are just coated in brake fluid. i am thinking i need to take it in to have the whole RR brake line redone? what are your thoughts on what to do. cost? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
micahs97gtwagon Posted December 13, 2009 Share Posted December 13, 2009 looks like we're in the same boat. Do you have a lot of rust under there? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amp27 Posted December 13, 2009 Author Share Posted December 13, 2009 um yes, under the rust theres rust. or the other rust beside the rust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amp27 Posted December 15, 2009 Author Share Posted December 15, 2009 what part number is the whole break line. and where to buy it. i am gonna replace both rears Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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