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Voltage problem, not the alternator...


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Three options for an electrical problem: alternator, battery or wiring. The first two can be checked for free at any parts store, the third one is not fun at all.

 

But I second the above post. What are the symptoms?

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lights dimming, fan dying down, volts are going to about 10.5 when idling. Everything jumps back up while driving or when the rpm's are up. When cruising the volts are around 14. Battery is brand new also, so I am guessing it is the wiring, which I was hoping to get around. I plan on putting new gold battery terminals just so there is a GOOD connection. Anywhere I should start looking first as far as wiring goes?
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That's definitely either your alternator or your battery. Take the car to your local Auto Zone, Advanced Auto, etc and have them test both (they have a little cart with the equipment on it that they bring right out to the car).
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Its your altanator. I used to work for advanced auto and auto zone. All that machine does is check the voltage output from altanator. But since you already know your output is 10v at idle then thats the problem right there. There could be a small chance that your wires are broken or not connected well enough. Check that first.

 

Now if the charge went from 10v at idle to say 16v at revs then maybe it could be your regulator. The regulator boost the voltage from 10 to 12 at idle and lowers the voltage from 16 to approx 14 or so at revs. I have had the regulator go bad on my motorcylce but never a car. To be honest Im not quite sure if there is a regulator in a car.

 

If your battery was dead then you would be reading 14 volts charging all the time I would suspect. Your car may run for a while but it wouldnt have juice to start. When the altanator is bad then your car will start fine, but then die as soon as the battery looses all its charge.

 

I have a radar detector that tells me my voltage charge during operation. (escort 8500)

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So i did a really quick search and it seems as though cars as well as bikes have regulators. Found one for my year LGT here.

 

http://www2.partstrain.com/store/index.php?VN=4294967267+4294964890+4294964576+4294967147+4294966803&Nr=AND(universal:0)&N=0&Ntt=Voltage%20Regulator

 

Other than a voltage regulator I could only assume wires to and from the altanator or battery.

 

Also check your grounding cables. make sure there is no point behind the contact points. If there is, sand it down to the metal to make a good connection. Maybe add some extra ground cables around the engine compartment.

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You can buy terminal blocks at your local car audio store. This will split the single terminal into a few terminals. You can then replace your old ground cables with new ones and add extra ones to both the engine block and the unibody. I usually just try to make them as hidden as possible and use exsisting bolts that I can find. Make sure to sand the paint down under the bolt head before you add the ground. SOLDER ALL YOUR CONNECTIONS!!! and try to use heat shrink and not electrical tape. Electrical tape just falls off after a while being in the engine bay.
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