ClimberDHexMods Posted August 28, 2009 Share Posted August 28, 2009 Not a bad idea... You can have the glory, might even ge stickied. PM me if you need any info. There are quite a few choices in brands, sizes, etc. Hopefully will after I paint the living room and upstairs... MUST UNPACK!!! It's fun to write things up. [CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted August 28, 2009 Share Posted August 28, 2009 ^ Hah, just moved 3000 miles from NY to CA myself. Got here a month ago. Still living out of boxes, lol. I'll try and snap a pic this weekend. Got to get under the car. The cross member bushing is way up there, blocked by my mid pipe. Might not get a good shot of that one without dropping the pipe. Sorry, not that motivated to get a shot if it comes to that. With my Cobb poly hangers it could take hours to get it down and up again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClimberDHexMods Posted August 29, 2009 Share Posted August 29, 2009 ^ Hah, just moved 3000 miles from NY to CA myself. Got here a month ago. Still living out of boxes, lol. Boston to Texas. 20% unpacked. Car wiring still not done after almost 2 months... moving isn't as fun as it looks in the movies. Living room wall looks like a color palette with all the samples that didn't make the cut . [CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted August 29, 2009 Share Posted August 29, 2009 I hear you. I moved with a vf52, injectors and fuel pump in a box. Still in the same box sitting on my shelf in the garage. I look at it every once in a while for inspiration. At least I retuned the car for the crap CA gas. This is my second cross country move in 2 years. I wasn't completely unpacked in NY before we came back to CA. I don't know if I will ever get the boxes unpacked. Not sure I should bother, lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WhitelineJim Posted August 31, 2009 Share Posted August 31, 2009 G’day everyone, Thanks for the welcome and supportive comments. ClimberD, take your point re bushings, relative value and performance ROI (return on investment) and I would generally agree but this is not actually bushing product, it just happens to use polyurtehane. Being careful not to be too pedantic here but the distinction is in the brands and SKU’s with Whiteline Flatout rarely getting involved in replacement bushings (poly or not) as our brand is all about performance and bang for the buck. fishbone, I was involved in the development of KDT903 (I believe we’re all talking about this part) and our aim was to deal with the rear cradle float that had such adverse effects on dynamic alignment settings and power delivery via unwanted changes to rear “anti” geometry. Not sure if you guys have seen this but the following YouTube link illustrates the reasons for our concern [ame= ] [/ame] (Actually related to KDT902 but nearly identical same principle.) If we were to replace the rear sub-frame or cradle bushes completely that would be a function of the Whiteline Plus brand and would be largely targeted at replacement. The KDT903 however is deliberately designed to deal with a specific tech issue and outcome that exists with even brand new vehicles used for spirited driving. And, we tried to keep it as cheap as possible as we felt it was a pretty important mod in terms of outcomes. Anyway, we’re glad you like it. Let us know if we can help any further. Cheers Whiteline Jim www.whtieline.com.au Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted September 1, 2009 Share Posted September 1, 2009 I think this is a different kit than we are talking about. Although also a good investment. Here is a pic of my instructions from the kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WhitelineJim Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 G’day everyone, m sprank, though not actually the same part number they are almost identical and perform the same function as described. Cheers Whiteline Jim www.whiteline.com.au Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooby600 Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 I got most of this done today. I put in the bushings for the rear diff but the crossmember bushing was a pain. I was not able to get the nuts and bolts off. I used breaker bars, pipes, and an impact wrench and none of them even moved the nut to the crossmember. Am I missing something here? Is there something I am not doing? There has to be some trick to this thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted September 16, 2009 Share Posted September 16, 2009 Nope. Its that much of a biatch. I had to cut mine out with a die grinder and cutting disc. Then replace the bolt and nut with new OEM. I even tried a 36" pipe wrench and broke a cheap Kobalt impact gun and socket in my attempt to remove it. F'in Subaru torque gorillas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94sportsedan Posted September 16, 2009 Share Posted September 16, 2009 How were you able to install the lower ones? I bought the kit from Fred Beans http://www.fredbeansparts.com/servlet/the-2201/Whiteline-Subaru-Legacy-GT/Detail My lower bushings for the differential were solid rubber. I was able to easily install the tops ones, being a Florida no rust car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooby600 Posted September 16, 2009 Share Posted September 16, 2009 I wonder if I have any other options besides cutting the bolts off. They seem like they are just seized on there since I used everything on them and I even tried PB blasting it before I tried breaker bars and impact. ^I'm not sure which lower bushings you are talking about. There are 2 that go in the back of the differential and 2 that go where the crossmember is, which is a little towards the front of the car. That was my understanding at least. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94sportsedan Posted September 16, 2009 Share Posted September 16, 2009 I was going by the diagram posted above, the one that came with the kit. Is teh picture in the instruction sheet wrong? Where those arrows are pointing to are rubber bushings with no gaps around them. Are thsoe the bolts you can't get off? Where teh 60559A yellow bushings go? You may want to take a second look and see your rubber bushings are solid rubber too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted September 16, 2009 Share Posted September 16, 2009 My understanding is that older models might have had a solid bushing to begin with. But, just to be sure are you looking at the drivers side or passenger side of the car? The bushing you want is the drivers side. All cars have a solid bushing on the passenger side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooby600 Posted September 16, 2009 Share Posted September 16, 2009 Hmm, I was so concerned with trying to take those bolts off that I didn't see if they were solid. I ordered the same kit from Fred Beans Parts. I wasn't able to install the 60599A bushings because I couldn't get the nuts and bolts loose. I'm still trying to figure out a way to do it without cutting the bolts off Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted September 16, 2009 Share Posted September 16, 2009 I have 2 08's. They have the hollow bushing on the drivers side. Good luck getting that friggin bolt off. I even had the guys at AZP look at it and they could offer no advice but to cut it off, and they really didn't want to do it. I waited until I got the car to Cali from NY to do the work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooby600 Posted September 16, 2009 Share Posted September 16, 2009 Is it even worth doing? I have the other bushings in and I wonder if those will make enough difference to offset the PITA factor haha. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted September 16, 2009 Share Posted September 16, 2009 Maybe, maybe not. The PITA factor is rather high. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark34 Posted September 16, 2009 Share Posted September 16, 2009 I have these sitting here waiting to go in. What's the torque spec for re-installing the bolts? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94sportsedan Posted September 16, 2009 Share Posted September 16, 2009 My understanding is that older models might have had a solid bushing to begin with. But, just to be sure are you looking at the drivers side or passenger side of the car? The bushing you want is the drivers side. All cars have a solid bushing on the passenger side. Hah, Just my luck I was under the car under the passenger side! Never even thought to look at the drivers side! I couldn't even follow a simple diagram!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted September 16, 2009 Share Posted September 16, 2009 ^ For the good info I expect my $1 tip sent to sales@icedpc.com. If you are unaware of the new "rule" check out this thread http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=117762. I think its around page 7 or 8 that the "rule" is applied. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94sportsedan Posted September 17, 2009 Share Posted September 17, 2009 As it was a great tip, it did not apply to my car! The Subaru gods must have been smiling as it rolled down the assembly line and they installed two lower solid rubber bushings! Guess I'm left with two useless pieces of yellow plastic! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted September 17, 2009 Share Posted September 17, 2009 Doh! My mod purchases are on hold again! Damn my master plan is foiled! No worries, I had heard that older models might have two solid bushings. I'm sure if you get creative there is a fun use for the two bushing inserts. ;)Have fun! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FPerron Posted September 17, 2009 Share Posted September 17, 2009 Well, that could have worked out better. Just had my car on the lift to install the bushings and found out the OEM front ones were solid, and the rear studs wanted to back out of the diff housing with the nuts. Since there's no room behind the diff for the studs to come all the way out, I'd have to disconnect the drive shaft and move the diff forward to get enough room. Anyone know if the axles will allow the diff to move forward 2-3 inches? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted September 17, 2009 Share Posted September 17, 2009 ^ The PITA factor increases. No idea if the axles will allow the diff to move. Wouldn't want to find out if they don't when one either comes out, or gets damaged. Could check the vacation pics to see if the instructions for removing a rear axle gives any clues to how much "play" you have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94sportsedan Posted September 18, 2009 Share Posted September 18, 2009 Well, that could have worked out better. Just had my car on the lift to install the bushings and found out the OEM front ones were solid, and the rear studs wanted to back out of the diff housing with the nuts. Since there's no room behind the diff for the studs to come all the way out, I'd have to disconnect the drive shaft and move the diff forward to get enough room. Anyone know if the axles will allow the diff to move forward 2-3 inches? Once my studs were backed out enough I just clamped vise grips on the shoulder (non threaded part of the stud) then backed out the nut with a 17MM wrench. When the nut go back by the end I just threaded the stud back into the diff. You could also hammer up the underbody a tad bit. It's only the spare tire well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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