Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

Jack Point?


Recommended Posts

So I changed the rotors in the front recently by jacking the car from the side body-pan jack points under the front doors (The circular grooves under the body).

 

 

When I tried to find a place to jack up the back, all I could find were the circular points under the back door - which are really toward the middle of the car. When I jacked here, I heard metal warping, and when I removed the jack, I noticed that the weight of lifting the side of the car made the circular jack point cave-in almost .5"... not good. I also noticed that on the front jack points, the jack ate away my rust-proofing spray - also not good.

 

Where am I supposed to put the jack to lift the rear end of the car for a 2000 LGT? I've read in some places that the rear diff is the place to do it but I want to confirm with you guys.

 

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=144205

 

Also, is there anything I can do to pull the deformed rear jack point back out?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I lift the car from the front on the crossmember between the oilpan and the transmission. It's a flat plate. The part name for this is Jack Plate, so I suppose that's the right place to do it.

For the rear, I use the rear diff. That's how I've always jacked up my cars, and its the safest without bending any of the metal on the body.

 

Here's a pic of the front plate:

 

http://users.sisna.com/ignatius/subaru/mods/jack/frt_jack.jpg

 

 

As for fixing the deformations. I wouldn't worry about it. It's under the car, and it's just one mark. If you have rubbed off some of the rust proofing, just grab a can of 3M stuff at the auto store and spray some on the bare metal.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the confirmation BDubs.

 

I took a look at the deformation earlier and I think the jack actually sheared the metal - about a 60 degree arc around one side of the circular jack point. Do you think I can shoot some Stuff in there to create a water barrier? Is there any way I can make sure everything up there is dry before I seal it off? I was thinking about blasting it with a heat gun for a while and then 3M-ing it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just keep it out of water for a couple days and it'll be dry. You could certainly use "Stuff" but I'm not sure how long that would hold out without some sort of barrier between it and the elements. Maybe a bit of clear coat or something after the "Stuff" has become completely solid would do it.

 

Like Bdubs mentioned, it's under the car so I wouldn't be too concerned with the aesthetics as much as I would be with keeping it nicely sealed.

My 9.3 cups EJ22 makes me feel like my **** is 2.8 decimeters!
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.



×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use