Rear Bumper Removal

[FPerron]

How do you remove the rear bumper cover from an 05 GT? I see the attachment points at the bootom in the back, but I don't see how to disconnect the cober from the fenders on the sides.

[GTTuner]

Wow, your really on a diet for the track . Dont forget to take a huge crap before the race . (memories from wrestling competition in HS )

 

I think, don't take as gospel, there are clips when you open the trunk, plus screws in the rear of the wheel well. I would not be surprised if there are some fasteners behind the taillights also.

 

While your at it, pull the rear seat, cushion and back rest. And, the passenger front seat weighs a ton also. Just make a note how the harness is routed, I screwed that up on mine and when I slid the seat all the way back it ripped out a couple of wires.

[FPerron]

• Four plastic clips at bottom rear
  
• 10 mm bolt at rear of wheel well on each side where bumper cover meets the fender
  
• Plastic clips at bottom of bumper cover at rear of wheel well (2 on each side
  
• Plasic clips under the tail lights (2 each side). Have to remove tail light assemblies (easy)
  
• 10 mm bolt on each side of trunk bulkhead to bumper cover. Must pull back carpet inside trunk to see
  

[metsfan999]

is this the same to remove the rear bumper of an 08 Legacy?

[mattg]

Should be very similar

[hpdclark]

thanks i was rear ended. thanks for the huge help!!!

[Mark Fisher]

2008 Subaru LEGACY Rear Bumper Cover Removal

 

Got a ding or dent in your rear bumper cover on your Subaru Legacy? It’s easy to get them because the rear visibility is a little obstructed on the Legacy but don’t fret. If the damage is not to bad you can push the dent out yourself with a little effort. The problem is not pushing it out, it’s getting the cover off so that you can! What follows is my contribution to the greater knowledge base that I acquired trying to find instructions on the easy removal of the bumper cover.

 

What you will need:

 

1. Two people. This is a two man job.

2. Tools:

a. Necessary and essential tools are:

i. Metric socket set

ii. A small “wonder bar” pry bar

iii. A rubber mallet or hammer

iv. A medium sized Phillips screwdriver

b. Recommended but not essential:

i. Two car supports to hold the car up to remove the rear tires. Always block the other wheels and follow safety precautions to prevent the car from falling on you when working underneath the car.

ii. A car jack to lift the car to insert the car supports

iii. The tire/wheel removal lug nut tool

3. Instructions on removal.

a. Preliminary considerations: The reason why the rear tires should be removed is purely for ease of removal and reinstallation of two screws accessed through the wheel well. The removal can be effected without this step but it is a pain the ass to do it otherwise.

b. Steps to removal:

i. If you decided to remove the rear wheels and put the car up on blocks then you will next open the rear trunk. Clear out the trunk as you will having to detach and move the trunk lining along the rear and side sections of the trunk.

ii. Next remove the mud guard that protects the trunk latch assembly. Set aside with screws.

iii. Next you will have to detach the two grey colored retaining clips on either side of the rear panel. These are about the size of your thumb and may have a small, squared off, “hook” shaped section. These are attached to a receiving hole that is “notched.” So turn the retaining clip 90 degrees and wiggle and pull it toward the front of the car until released. You will see that the post portion of the clip has two notches that have to pass through the receiving notches. It will take a little work but patiently work them out with minimal damage.

iv. Next you will see two “nickel” sized plastic retaining pieces on either side of the trunk about 2- 3 feet from the back of the trunk. You can either try and pull these out or, as I did, just ignore them for now. These have straight posts with “ridges” that hold them into place and secure the side lining of the trunk liner.

v. At this point you can pull back the liner from the rear of the trunk and access the rear taillight assemblies. There are four screws on each. One screw acts as a retention post for the electrical wiring and therefore is hidden. Merely pull the wiring clip that sits on it away and it will expose the screw to be removed.

vi. Disconnect the electrical connection. Push down on the top of it to release the retaining clip and pull the connection away from the female receiver.

vii. Remove all four screws (8 total) from both taillight assemblies. Set them aside. Then use the rubber mallet on the screw posts to dislodge or loosen the assembly. Pull each one away from the exterior of the car and set aside.

viii. There are four screws holding the bumper cover on, in addition to six plastic clips. All six clips are located along the bottom of the bumper underneath the car. Two of the screws are accessed from the trunk. Two are accessed from the wheel wells.

(1) Accessing the trunk screws:

(a) To remove the two in the trunk, look about 18" in from the rear of the car along the side panel. Here is where you may have to pull the lining back and, as I did, just pull it over the plastic retaining “pop its” referenced in section 3.b. iv. above.

(b) Use the metric socket set to remove these and set aside.

(2) Accessing the wheel well screws:

(a) If you removed the wheels this should be easy. If not, then you will be cramped for hand space to use the socket wrench to remove the screws. They are located on the rear, side of the wheel well, underneath the mud/water shielding. Move the shielding out of the way and you should find them easily. Remove and set aside.

ix. 6 Plastic clips:

(1) The plastic clips to be removed are two piece retaining clips. They function with one piece being inserted and the second one then is pushed through the first, expanding the male portion of the first section so that it stays in place. To remove it you need to keep the first, or outer section (the one that is closest to the body) fully inserted while prying out the inner piece. I found that the small wonder bar worked well because the pry (or claw) section tended to force the outer section up as the claw pulled on the inner piece. With a little patience you will find that the inner piece will withdraw enough to allow for the full retaining post to be removed still together. You will probably want to work them apart after removal to ease reinstallation but you make the call on that.

(2) After you have removed the 6 clips and other items listed above you should be able to pull the bumper cover off with two men pulling on either corner.

4. Fixing your ding

a. That plastic material is tough folks. Fortunately my son is 190 lbs and strong so he had the weight and strength necessary to push out the dent I had acquired.

b. To do this we took the bumper cover to a grassy area that would not damage the surface and which provided some “give” when he stomped on the offending sections. With a little work we were able to remove about 95% of the visible dent.

5. Reinstallation:

a. Reinstallation is just the reverse of the foregoing with a note to be careful to make sure that the bumper cover slides into the little channels, especially around the rear taillight assembly holes.

b. If you had not already removed the plastic retaining "pop its" referenced in section 3.b. iv. above, you will want to do that so that you can put the trunk liner back into place and have it secured.

 

Tell me what you think about these instructions. Did they help or hurt.

 

Mark Fisher

brynmawrgator@gmail.com

[abarnesDLGT]

they seem very informative about to go try it , also i have here if you add dome boiling water or a heat gun to soften the plastic it will help it a lot