Tie Rod Boot Dilemma

[gathermewool]

97 Legacy GT

193k miles

 

I replaced the driver-side tie rod boot last year with out too much of a problem at all. The passenger-side looked good so I didn't replaced it. Bad move. I changed the oil yesterday and noticed it had torn all the way around.

 

I unscrewed the outer tie rod, but was unable to remove the locking nut no matter how hard I tried. It was rust welded on there pretty good. I forgot my PB Blaster at home, and the shop's penetrant drops were useless. I tried a cheater bar with zero success as well. There was a fair amount of rust on the ball and socket, and a noticeable increase in friction while moving the tie rod around.

 

For what it's worth, I check the boots during oil changes (Every 3k miles)

 

My questions:

 

Does the outer tie rod include the socket portion as well? If so, would it be easier to just replace the outer tie rod?

 

Thanks for the help!

[byronchrisp05]

So you got the outer tie rod end its self threaded off of the inner tie rod? but you can get the jam nut off?

 

I would try heating it up

 

if you cant get it off you would need to get a new inner tie rod end

[Bdubs]

I'd be surprised if you can get that threaded end of the tierod off. Most cases you have to carefully slice a chunk out of it to break it free.

[gathermewool]

I'm not sure which is considered the inner, and which the outer. Is the inner tie rod the portion closest to the motor or the portion closest to the hub? I think, due to the rust on the ball and socket, that it must be replaced. The ball and socket portion is covered by the boot (for obvious reasons)

 

I was able to unthread the tie rod from the tie rod end, but the jam nut would not budge, and I ended up marring the 13mm hex-shaped portion of the tie rod just inboard of the jam nut (toward the motor) trying to use a set of vice grips to get some leverage after realizing the 13mm OO wrench was insufficient.

[gathermewool]

Also, I noticed the tie rod end boot doesn't seem to be in the best shape. When I tilt the tie rod end to it's limits either way there's a slight popping sound, and very dark grease is visible. The driver-side seems to be the same way. While I'm in there, and most likely will need to replace the tie rod (still don't know what inner/outer means, unless it's just another form of tie rod/tie rod end), would it just behoove me to replace whole assembly AND the tie rod end for the passenger side?

 

Thanks again for any help!

[Bdubs]

That popping is a key sign they are warn. Which, isn't out of the ordinary on an older car.

The outer tierod is what attaches to the hub assy. The inner is what the outer threads onto.

There is a special tool for this, Advance may have one for a loaner.

[gathermewool]

Thanks! I did finally find my long lost Haynes Manual buried under a ton of junk on my desk, and it shows a pretty good picture of replacing the tie rod end boot. It's so inexpensive that I might just pay the ~$80 to replace both. I'll call subarugenuineparts.com, but does any one know off hand if these come with all the hardware, including the boots, pins, etc? I want to do this all in one shot, and not have to screw around a few times.

 

Does any one know of anything else I should be replacing as preventative maintenance? I've been hearing a little squeak when it's cold out, but only when I stop, meaning the sudden jerk forward when I stop, and also the initial jerk when I first hit the gas. It's only when cold, and only during those times. I think it might be the ball joint starting to go...

[Bdubs]

You can buy the tierod ends, the outer portion as a set with the joints and washer, but the rest, you have to buy piece by piece.

 

If you can move your hub side to side, or there is any play, the ball joint is worn. I just replaced mine, and I certainly suggest using a puller for them. Mine came out with so much force, it yanked the puller right off the control arm and shot straight across the garage floor. Lucky I didn't have my head under it.

[gathermewool]

Thanks for the info, Bdubs. I think I'll replace these and the driver-side tie rod end just to be safe. I didn't notice any play at all when I was jerkin things around. Is there anything to be done to prolong the ball joints? I've heard some people inject grease via needle to get some fresh stuff in there? I'm only assuming the slight squeak I SOMETIMES here is coming from the ball joints. She is a bit old, and I'm bound to hear more soon enough. My goal is to have her run another 100k (at least 50k, please!!!) while spending as little money as possible.