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RPM surge with clutch 'in'


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Hi all ~

I searched and couldn't find my particular issue listed anywhere, so I figured I'd start a new thread.

 

I've been noticing lately that when I press in the clutch to stop, sometimes the RPM's surge up to 2,000, then back down to 1,000, then back up to 2,000, then back to 1,000 then settles at the normal (around 700).

It almost seems like the gas pedal is getting stuck, but I assure everyone that there is nothing riding the gas pedal (floor mats are secure, my foot isn't leaning on it etc). I also make sure that the clutch is pressed all the way in...

There's no surge to the vehicle (it doesn't feel like it wants to move forward), the motor just rev's. A/C isn't on and everything else feels fine (braking is normal etc.)

 

Any ideas?

 

Oh, BTW, I have an 08 Legacy 2.5i without any mods. 14,000 miles...

 

 

Thanks!

Zim

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Try putting it in neutral, not just pushing in the clutch. Our 2006 outback does that, and I think the reason is to try to have the engine at the correct RPM to let the clutch back out. The car does not "surge" at all when the shifter is in neutral.
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Ditto - Holding the clutch disengaged is just asking for trouble, IMNSHO.
06LOB2.5i MT, JDMRSB, GYTTs, HPS, LGT Mufflers & Leather Wheel, SubiMomo Knob, Inalfa Moonroof, Clutch Switch Bypass, DeDRLd, DeChimed, & Straight Headrest.
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Ditto - Holding the clutch disengaged is just asking for trouble, IMNSHO.

That sorta makes sense, but pushing the clutch in, putting the gearbox in neutral, letting the clutch out, then pushing the clutch back in to put the gearbox in first - isn't that like triple the work on the clutch?

 

{Maybe I need a lesson in how the clutch works!}

 

Thank you!

Zim

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Maybe check to see if there are any ECU reflashes available for your vehicle. Those drive by wire setups seem to have a lot of posts about these phantom reving issues. It might not do it in neutral because the ECU knows when the trans is in neutral or in gear and may adjust accordingly.

 

Generally people say to be on the clutch as little as possible because it is rough on the throw out bearing to have the engine running with the clutch pedal pressed in.

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I figure holding the clutch in just wears the thrust bearing. That's internal, so more $ than say a clutch or throwout bearing.

This is why I bypass the clutch-starter-interlock switch on all our cars.

06LOB2.5i MT, JDMRSB, GYTTs, HPS, LGT Mufflers & Leather Wheel, SubiMomo Knob, Inalfa Moonroof, Clutch Switch Bypass, DeDRLd, DeChimed, & Straight Headrest.
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Hey check this out, I was searching for something else and spotted this:

http://techinfo.subaru.com/html/litSearch.jsp?lit_no=11-89-08&x=31&y=6

Wow - I'm not a member of the Subaru Tech Info site, but reading the Description it sounds like this might be the fix.

So, can I just take this information to Subaru Service and tell 'em to fix it?! (yeah, like that ever works...)

 

Thanks for the information!

Zim

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Check to see how much carbon build-up has accumulated in your IAT sensor.

This can cause the throttle position to stay open. You may need to have it cleaned out.

I'm a complete novice (read: idiot) when it comes to this kind of stuff - is this something that I can have the Subaru Service department check for me?

 

Thanks!

Zim

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I'm a complete novice (read: idiot) when it comes to this kind of stuff - is this something that I can have the Subaru Service department check for me?

 

Thanks!

Zim

Everybody started somewhere. I learned a lot about AWD, and cars in general fixing this thing. But for sure, take it to the service dept. And have them check it. The problem is it costs like $275 to replace, and i learned a quick thing around that. Spray some brakekleen on it, and it's as good as new. Of course, my car is tracked heavily, so the build-up is more than normal.

 

Good luck!

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
Try putting it in neutral, not just pushing in the clutch. Our 2006 outback does that, and I think the reason is to try to have the engine at the correct RPM to let the clutch back out. The car does not "surge" at all when the shifter is in neutral.

Well, I've tried this for the last month, and it does work! The funny thing is that I never noticed this before, but my assumption is that cars today try and learn how you drive, so it took 10,000 miles for it to figure out that I'm a 'clutch-in while in-gear' driver. I've been pushing the clutch in and putting the gearbox in neutral and the surge has stopped.

...amazing.

 

Thanks for the pointer! You saved me a lot of money, busted knuckles and from looking like an idiot at the service department!

 

 

Zim

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