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recommendation for use with porter cable


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hey guys, so i'm finally looking to get a porter cable, however now i need to know what products i should get along with it. i do really want to try using the wolfgang sealant, but i feel like this kit is a bit too much for me.

 

http://autogeek.net/wolfgang-porter-cable-swirl-remover.html

 

i have a satin white legacy, and while i do have swirls the only time they are visible is in direct sunlight and at certain angles. so i'm hoping you guys can give me a recommendation for a very fine polish and tips on which pad to use for it.

 

i'm also having an issue with tiny brown spots that i'm having trouble getting out with the clay bar. would a chemical cleaner like the klasse aio along with the pc be the proper tool to get them out or should i continue with the clay bar?

 

to my understanding claying and polishing only have to be done every couple months, maybe 2-3 times a year. all the other times assuming i have a good sealant on a wash and another coat of sealant should suffice correct?

 

thanks in advance for the help.

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The clay is only going to pull the contamination that causes the brown dots out. In order to remove the dots themselves you will likely need to use a paint cleaner. Klasse AIO is a great product to use for that kind of thing. It isn't going to do anything for swirls since it doesn't have any physical abrasives in it, but it does a great job of stripping off wax and sealants and cleaning the paint in preparation for a new layer of sealant. There are times that you won't need to do swirl removal and you just want to apply a fresh layer of whatever protectant you are using, so a product like AIO is perfect in those situations.

 

A light polish like XMT1 or XMT2 would probably be what I would suggest. Your swirls may only be visible in direct sunlight or certian angles, but they are definitely there. White and silver cars hide swirls pretty well, but they get just as bad as black ones do. In order to have the best shine possible you will need to polish the surface as if the swirls could be seen more easily. XMT2 should do the trick. Poorboy's SSR2 would work as well. In fact, most products that have a 1, 2 or 3 behind them these days are pretty much on the same level with each other. I've been using Danase Swirl Abolisher II quite a bit this year and have found it to be an excellent product as well. http://www.Danase.com is a forum sponsor, so that is worth checking out.

 

You only need to break out the clay if you want to remove surface contamination that causes the paint to not be smooth. Typically you only need to do this in the spring and in the fall, but if something happens in between where your car is hit with a bunch of overspray or industrial fallout, then you may need to do it again. After clay you should polish and rewax anyway, so don't clay your car unless you are prepared to follow through with those steps. The clay will A) strip some of the wax or sealant off the car and B) create new scratches that will need to be polished out. Just be prepared. :)

_________________________________________

“Cleanliness becomes more important as godliness becomes more unlikely.”

O C D E T A I L S . C O M

OCDETAILS BLOG

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+1 on the XMT products. i took OCD's advice and pulled the trigger myself here a while back. I couldnt be more happier with the results.

OTM.

Sorry I didn't mean to start a war which mainly forum people is all about ;).
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Yup. The white one would be good for XMT2 or XMT1 on paint with light damage and the grey ones are for the wax/sealant. Not for Klasse SG though. That has to be applied by hand. Just about everything else in a bottle can be used with the PC, but SG is tricky and has to be wiped on.

 

If the paint is more damaged than just minor swirls (on a car that is maybe two years old and has been somewhat cared for) but if it is neglected seriously (four or five years old and never been waxed or polished) then you will need a more agressive pad and polish combination. That kit would be what I call the 'new car kit'. It would work if you are trying to maintain your new car, but it isn't much of a restoration kit on cars that are seriously messed up. Make sense?

_________________________________________

“Cleanliness becomes more important as godliness becomes more unlikely.”

O C D E T A I L S . C O M

OCDETAILS BLOG

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is the pad conditioner necessary or is that something i can live without? also is it a good idea to have the lambswoold backing?

 

so it looks like at the very least i'm getting a porter cable, white pad, grey pad, xmt #1 or #2, klasse aio and wolfgang sealant.

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I don't know about the lambswool backing. I have no idea what that is, to be honest. If it is an accessory for the PC then I can honestly say I've never used one. I use lambswool wash mitts, but that is the only thing sheep related I've ever used while detailing.

 

Pad conditioner is nice, but not a necessity. You can live without it, but you will find value in it. I only use it the first time I apply the product to a dry pad. After that I don't use it. So you are only going to use three or four sprays anytime you detail. I've still got half a bottle of the one I bought almost two years ago. It lasts forever.

_________________________________________

“Cleanliness becomes more important as godliness becomes more unlikely.”

O C D E T A I L S . C O M

OCDETAILS BLOG

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any tips on using klasse aio with the pc? and could i just cover up a foam pad with one of those microfiber bonnets for when i buff out the sealant and aio?

 

after polishing, is there a dust or any residue left behind? would it wise to go ahead and wash and clean the paint again after polish or can i go straight to the sealant?

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