utgt Posted July 27, 2008 Share Posted July 27, 2008 I searched and it does not seem that anyone is putting more than 500rms in there lgt's. I have been out of the audio for about a year or so but i have so much audio stuff sitting in my garage that I would really like to get something in the legacy. I ran a hifonics brutus 1200 with two cerwin vegas on 1 ohm in my maxima, with no mod except a yellow top and after market radio, but it has a great alternator. So my question is what would I have to do to install this in my lgt. I would like to use the stock hu, because there is no good alternative, but don't know if that is possible with that kind of power. So new alternator/battery or, will I have to remote mount an aftermarket hu? I also have 2 orion h2's and two brutus 1600's, from failed plans, but would it be possible to put in both, or one of these without sacrificing to much performance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biz77 Posted July 27, 2008 Share Posted July 27, 2008 I'm running 1,600 watts RMS. Of course I listen to actual music (not boom-boom test tones) and a fair amount of that power is used to run drviers that produce something other than bass. I stll run the stock battery (for the time being) and alternator. I only run into problems when I really pin the volume and I do get dimming of the dash lights and voltage sags down below 12 volts. I'm using 1/0 gauge on the big-3 plus my run to my amps. As to your head unit question, there are plenty of answers, just search. There is probably at least one thread on the first page of the audio/interior section. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CzarDestructo Posted July 27, 2008 Share Posted July 27, 2008 If I recall the stock alternator is only 1,100 watts, if you intend to run that stereo loud on a regular basis you'll want a really decent battery and a big cap for a buffer. Make sure you properly size the cap though, if your system hits hard enough to discharge the cap then you'll be double loading you electrical system with both the amp AND the cap. Not good. If you plan to really crank up those amps, you'll need a new alternator.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
utgt Posted July 27, 2008 Author Share Posted July 27, 2008 Thanks for the help, I know what wires I have to run and everything after the main components, I'm defiantly not new to high watt systems. I searched and it seems that most people are running a second hu in the cubby, but my problem is that I have gauges installed with a cubbypod, and I don't really want to move them or put them anywhere visible. So, I would like to run the stock hu, my question is anyone running this much out of the stock hu, and how does it sound? So, from what it sounds like I should be fine running the stock alternator? If i can I don't want to put on a bigger alternator and hurt my performance. I'm going to put a good cap on and a probably a yellow top. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biz77 Posted July 27, 2008 Share Posted July 27, 2008 GT's get 110 amp alternators. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FishingFiend Posted July 29, 2008 Share Posted July 29, 2008 I've got 1300+ RMS running on the stock alternator and battery. I only get disco lights when I crank it way up with heavy bass tracks. But then again, I'm running the PDX amps from Alpine. Class D is going to be easier on the electrical system versus a A/B amp, especially running at 1ohm. As for OEM integration, I'm a big fan of the 3.sixty.2. There are plenty of threads on this, search is your friend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
executor485 Posted July 29, 2008 Share Posted July 29, 2008 I have a 500/1 and a 300/4 running... I know its not 1200RMS, but it hits very hard and gets the job done... But even with a yellow top battery the lights will dim a little if you crank it to the max. So I'm guessing that I'm right at the limit of what I should be, maybe a tad past. If I pass you on the right, I'm flipping you off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ean611 Posted July 29, 2008 Share Posted July 29, 2008 executor485, that must be a sweet system. I've got a 500/5 myself, though that has a max rated consumption of 50A. 1200+ watts will consume around 100-140A at 13.6V depending on the amp's efficiency. Bottom line is that almost no car has a factory alternator that can keep up with that load along with running the car, meaning the battery is running down. Keep in mind, to draw that kind of power, you'd have to be pumping out high volume continuous bass likely at levels that you should be wearing hearing protection for. at reasonable volume, you should not consume that much power. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
executor485 Posted July 29, 2008 Share Posted July 29, 2008 It is a great setup... Love it. For the most part I think most setups will do just fine as long as you dont go overboard. While the factory alternator isnt normally built for big car stereo setups, they do have some le-way. If I pass you on the right, I'm flipping you off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icrackedcorn Posted July 29, 2008 Share Posted July 29, 2008 600 RMS all the time, all the way up, zero side effects obedience to church and state is subjugation to the unjust authority of men Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biz77 Posted July 30, 2008 Share Posted July 30, 2008 executor485, that must be a sweet system. I've got a 500/5 myself, though that has a max rated consumption of 50A. 1200+ watts will consume around 100-140A at 13.6V depending on the amp's efficiency. Bottom line is that almost no car has a factory alternator that can keep up with that load along with running the car, meaning the battery is running down. Keep in mind, to draw that kind of power, you'd have to be pumping out high volume continuous bass likely at levels that you should be wearing hearing protection for. at reasonable volume, you should not consume that much power. With reasonable music you won't have that hard of time with the charging system either. If you figure a 1,200 watt system using class a/b amplifiers has a full-power efficiency of 60% and you are listening to modern pop/rock music, which has a crest factor of 10db, you are only consuming an average of ~ 35 amps at a 13.5v supply. This is at full volume. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
praedet Posted July 30, 2008 Share Posted July 30, 2008 What about 1600 watts rms... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biz77 Posted July 30, 2008 Share Posted July 30, 2008 What about 1600 watts rms... Assuming 60% amplifier efficiency, ~10db crest factor and 13.5V: ~ 58 amps average draw at full volume. Assuming 80% (class D or class H amplifier designs) amplifier efficiency, ~10db crest factor and 13.5V: ~ 43 amps average draw at full volume Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
praedet Posted July 30, 2008 Share Posted July 30, 2008 COOL I will be running a PDX 4.150 and a 1.1000... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biz77 Posted July 30, 2008 Share Posted July 30, 2008 COOL I will be running a PDX 4.150 and a 1.1000... Same set-up I have. The PDX's are EXTREMELY efficient and considerably under-rated. My 4.150 benched 198X4 at 4 ohms and 285X4 at 2 ohms on one of Rockford's PowerCubes: http://www.audiograph.se/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigkahuna808 Posted August 1, 2008 Share Posted August 1, 2008 I burp my system with a yellow top and kintek and 1/0 power wire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted August 1, 2008 Share Posted August 1, 2008 600 RMS all the time, all the way up, zero side effects except for the bleeding ears My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hollatchaboy Posted August 1, 2008 Share Posted August 1, 2008 i guess i'm probably the only a-hole to be pushing around 4,000RMS in their legacy. Running a MA HK4000d (3000x1 @ 2ohms, 4000x1 @ 1ohm), Alpine MRP-M450 (70x4 @ 4ohms), and a Crossfire (300x2 @ 2ohms). I've gone through numerous stereo setups in my legacy and each one involved a Yellow Top under the hood and more recently a higher output alternator. I now have 2 runs of 1/0 gauge from the battery and voltage seems to stay pretty good considering i also have a full-size Deka Intimidator battery in the hatch, too. if you're looking to run those H2s and the Brutus amps, you really have to look into an alternator especially if you're gonna be amping the highs (which i really do hope so). if you're talking more than 2 amps, and over an RMS of 3kw you definitely need to beef up the electrical. but, like you said... if it won't effect performance. i'll admit it definitely does. if you're trying to get loud and not slow the car down, just do a nice single sub setup in the right box. don't need to go all out with 2 18's and 14 highs... that's just my necessity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
utgt Posted August 1, 2008 Author Share Posted August 1, 2008 ya I bought the gt for the performance so I think I will just do one h2 with 0 gauge and a yellowtop, I had the 2 h2's in my maxima but I'm more into performance now, I'm sure that's a sweet system holla I loved my 4k when I had it... Thanks for all the info I'm glad there are some legacy's with good systems Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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