CE light on, acting wacky

[Picture_Shooter]

Guys – Help me find what the problem is:

 

2000 – Legacy 2.5L

 

135K miles

 

 

Recently did this:

• New Spark Plugs, Wires, Coil Pack, Fuel filter
  
• Valve Adjustment
  

 

Last week I headed out from Dallas, TX (700’ elevation)

To Denver, CO 5000’+ elevation

 

As soon as I came from Kansas / Colorado country line my CE light came on (Check-engine light)

Car did not ride no different. So I ignored it and kept on.

 

So I did my little weekday trip all over Colorado (mountains 14000’+ Elevation) and the CE light never went off.

 

So I decided on 3rd day to take it into AutoZone and get a free diagnostic check. The employee said it was a bad gas cap or the computer is trying to adjust to the higher-UP elevation. He said the best thing to do is disconnect the battery and let it sit for about 20 minutes and then hook everything back up. No sweat!!

 

 

HAHA!! Yea right. So anyways I didn’t do it, and just enjoyed the last few days of my vacation. As day 6th & 7th came around I notice lack of power. Then on day 7- heading back home. As soon as I got to Raton, NM; talk about the car hitting the shitter!! No power, come up to a stop and the car idols really rough and then no power. I hardly car get to 75mph on the highway.

 

As soon as I got back to Texas, the car seem to respond little better, but still no good apples and the CE light was still on. I did make it home, so as soon as I did. I did unplug the battery, let it sit for about 5 hours. Then plugged it back up.

 

Took about 3 minutes until the CE light came back on. Still at this point the car ran like shit (no different). Then when the CE light came on, the just starts to FLASH, does not ever stop (unlike it did when I was in COLORADO w/ one code).

 

So by unplugging the battery the CE light now is hay-wire!

 

I did take it to my local Advance Auto Part store and they pulled the code, the guy said that his scanner was acting up and pulling shit-load of codes. He never seen anything like that and recommend me taking it to my local Subie Dealership.

 

Ok all……………… what could be wrong. By 2nd guessing, I am thinking I may have a bad catalytic converter.

 

I just know that the SUBIE dealership is going to stick it to me. I am schedule to take it in tomorrow, but I really would like to save some expense if I can figure out this problem myself and get it done at my local auto mechanic shop if possible.

 

Thanks for any help.

[Picture_Shooter]

no one

[fastwgn286]

need to know what the codes are. no code info = we know as much as you do

[ehsnils]

Considering the large amount of codes there can be a range of faults, all from a blown ECU to ground fault or a fuse or connector that's oxidized. Even moisture in the ECU may be the cause.

 

Just take your pick.

[Picture_Shooter]

It was the misfire code for bank3, just like the last time, which was needed " Valve Adjustment" and $500.00 repair then.

 

But after a $97.00 diagnostic check at Subie dealership today, to find out the BOSCH spark plug wire in #3 was dead. The wires are only 2 months old. LAME!! New wires coming and it will not be anymore products from AZ!!

[ehsnils]

Well - a valve adjustment isn't necessarily wrong, but just too bad it was that expensive.

[Picture_Shooter]

Fuel injector was bad.

[Scruit]

I chased a 'misfire' code in my wife's old Grans Prix for about 2 years - went through 3 new injectors, new plugs, wires etc. Finally found the problem was the fuel injector wire for that cylinder has become disonnected from the pin INSIDE the multiplug connecting the ECU to the engine wiring harness. After I re-crimped the pin in the multiplug it worked perfectly after that.