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Anyone Solved the Clearance Issue w/ The Stock Hitch Yet


praedet

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All right, I am bringing up a topic that has only appeared in it's own thread once, and no one replied to that thread :lol:

 

Borrowing ur a bus's picture, what would you all recommend if I have a situation like in the picture below. (It is the OEM hitch for the uninitiated) I have a slightly different bolt for my rack, but the "ears" on the hitch get in the way. In my case, the actual head of the bolt is so large that I can not even start the threads into the receiver on the rack. Moreover, since the hole in the rack is threaded, I can't put a normal pin through...

 

So, do I take off the hitch and use a die grinder or plasma torch to cut off the "ear" on one side? Do I try to bend the metal? Anyone fixed this situation yet?

 

Ted

254193812_hitch2520003a.jpg.954bc88195adbb8d59a797bf56de8d5a.jpg

:spin:
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Hey I had the same problem and I have a solution that allowed me to put my Thule bike rack on with a bolt.

 

What you need is:

 

1. Three inch hardened steel bolt (same thread of course)

2. Three washers

3. locking star washer

4. One inch steel sleeve (most important to enable tightening)

 

Order of items: Bolt, two washers, Sleeve, washer, Star washer, you will have about an inch and a half of threads exposed to hold the rack on.

 

This combo enable you to tighten the hitch bolt at a distance using the enclosed rack wrench or a normal socket. Let me know if you need a picture of the bolt. I can email you one.

“Abandon hope, all ye who enter here”

-Dante Alighieri

 

http://youtu.be/lLFunBPgPOo

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Wait, don't cut. I have a thule T2 rack that has a locking bolt as an option (to prevent theft) that allows a special socket (think wheel lock) to be placed over it and still clear the "ears". Not knowing if that would work and before it came in the mail two weeks later, I went ahead and sourced an allen head metric bolt (which I think you are describing), which works fine, but of course could be removed by anyone with an appropriately sized allen wrench. For theft deterrence, there are star head bolts and and other head types, but anyone really wanting your bike (or rack) can remove it. Hit up your local Air Force maintenance facility ("high bay")and see if any of the mechanics can "spare" a nice grade 12 NAS, AN or heck even an MS metric bolt with a twelve point head (so a standard six point socket can't remove it. Remember the machinist's adage "It's easier to take off metal than it is to add it back on" . If you have to, measure twice and cut once.
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Wait, don't cut. I have a thule T2 rack that has a locking bolt as an option (to prevent theft) that allows a special socket (think wheel lock) to be placed over it and still clear the "ears".

So does the Thule lock fit?

:spin:
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I didn't catch this post earlier, but I ran into the same problem with my Yakima KingPin and the OEM hitch.

 

I tried a few solutions only to find the cheapest and easiest was to go get a whole new bolt all together.

 

I forgot what size, but I brought the Yakima bolt into the store with me, matched it up with same size threads and length hex bolt with small dia. head so it would clear the "wings" of the hitch.

 

All I could find was a bolt which had threads at the end, not threaded all the way, so it had to go the opposite way than the Yakima design. I used the bolt going on the opposite side than it was meant and used a metal spacer and a lock washer to make up for the extra space on the other side. It tightens up great, and holds on pretty good.

 

If it sounds confusing, it really isn't. It took me a couple trips to the hardware store to get everything to work though. I did this during the winter when I had nothing better to do.

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Awesome, thanks for the pic. I ended up being able to build it from your description, but its nice for the visual verification.

 

I also dropped by REI and picked up a Thule Snug Tite hitch lock, and that fits as well

It looks like this (random google link): http://www.prolineracks.com/thule-STL-snug-tite-lock.html.

 

 

however, without the sleeve in dergara's design, there's still the issue of tightening it down, you can hand thread it, and still have room to fit the lock on the other side, but its still not possible to tighten the bolt down all the way.

 

I'm no expert, but I'd think it'd still hold even if not tightened all the way, the lock would stop the bolt from dropping out.

 

If you are going the homemade bolt route, i believe the one i bought was a 12mm diameter and 80mm length, that's the biggest my Home depot had. You'll want a longer one, maybe 100mm if you can find it. 80mm worked, but BARELY. I also couldn't find the metal sleeve that dergara mentions, but I was able to get some thin metal piping and cut it to size using a hacksaw.

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