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5eat filter change and fill


garageXTi

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The fluid change is simple. The atf filter is located in the vicinity of the battery. It looks almost like the oil filter and just unscrews and is replaced. The filter doesn't need to be replaced for like 60K miles though. My Subaru service guy said once every other fluid change should be good to be religious about changing it.

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so your saying it does not make a mess or anything?

 

Tips, hmmmm.

 

One, you do not need to replace that transmission filter behind the battery unless you just want the experience. It is expensive, for one. Getting it out and in requires battery removal and replacement, disassembly of bracket, and is more difficult than easy. That's because it is not a normal replacement item. It needs to be replaced if you have had damage to the transmission, however, as part of a much larger project.

 

When draining your transmission use a clean container that you can pour into a measuring device to determine precisely what you took out. It turns out to be around 4.5 quarts but the point is to put back exactly what you take out. The fluid comes out fast, is thin and splashy, so make sure your container is near the drain.

 

The replacement fluid goes into the dip stick tube. I have bought at least five different funnels trying to find the right one. I finally made my own device. The point is to have a long enough tube to allow the funnel you're pouring the replacement fluid into to be high, level, and stable. Plus the end of the tube that goes into the dip stick tube has to both fit tightly into the tube as well as allow the fluid easy passage. Take care of this fill device BEFORE you start..... otherwise your concerns about how messy the job is will be justified :).

 

Remember to not overfill. Just replace what you took out, exactly. Then when you check the level later it should be fine.

 

Having done this successfully after all this I suggest you go get more of the 5EAT specific fluid (it is very specific for this transmission, make sure to get ONLY the Subaru 5EAT fluid!) because you should do it AGAIN in a week or so :). Draining the transmission will remove only the portion that isn't in the torque converter so doing the drain and refill a couple or so times in succession over a week or two will get a bigger percentage of the fluid replaced.

 

Do this every 20k instead of the 30 the manual suggests. Since you like to be serious about your maintenance it will benefit you to install a transmission cooler. It's easy.

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^^^Thats exactly when I changed mine, when I installed a Tru Cool 4451 two months ago.I had the front bumper cover and splash guards off and I saw the filter hiding up in the fender next to a harness.Only $25 my cost.I replaced it after starting and circulating the new fluid in the old filter w/ the new cooler.

Note that it was a PITA to get clamps that secure the hoses and not leak.Finally I found Ideal Clamps @ Pep Boys..the solid style with no serrations similar to fuel-clamp.This way you can tighten them safely and not get an ATF weep from the hose.If I had to do it again I would get one with threaded outlets and bend a solid line and by-pass the other trans hoses,that coincidentaly leak from the factory since day one.

Also, no noticeable difference in shift performance or speed.

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I'd like to address a couple of questions if I may:

a) what color should the Subaru OEM ATF fluid have?

b) is it true Subaru does not recommend a flush, but just a drain? 60K miles

My potential problem is ... although I've requested that the shop I did this replace the ATF with Subaru-brand, they may not have done it. I have to check the color to make sure. If they in fact did not fill with Subaru OEM, I'd have to do a complete flush as to not mix different fluids, yes?

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i feel like the drain/refill vs trans flush comes up on every single car forum, and the answer is always the same-use your own discretion and pick one. on my previous cars ive always done drain/refils in shorter intervals to cycle the new fluid through when trans fluid replacement time came. what do i mean? i mean that i drain/refill, drive a thousand miles or so (this is all guesstimate stuff-no real book on this), do another drain/refill, drive another 1k, and then do it once more. generally speaking, i just divide the dry fill amount by the amount that drains out-thats my number of drain/refills. of course its a 'dirty' method, and not guaranteed to get all of the old fluid out, but really, it's good enough. this isnt a space shuttle where every component is mission critical. to me, thats really the best route; obviously everybody has their own opinions on this so im going to leave it at that.

 

like seeeeeya above mentioned, the trans filter is essentially a lifetime item-even after i requested to my dealer that they change it out along w/ the fluid (im at ~27k mi), they didnt and told me that it wasnt necessary.

 

hope this helps, and really (seriously) closes the book on this topic.

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with all the crazy talk about flush's being bad for autos i will just stick to my drain and filler every other oil change method. my fluid has always been fresh and clean looking when i drain and fill it. your already under there for oil so why not drain and fill the tranny at the same time. plus this fluid is damn expensive so i am happy doing 4 quarts at a time.
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with all the crazy talk about flush's being bad for autos i will just stick to my drain and filler every other oil change method. my fluid has always been fresh and clean looking when i drain and fill it. your already under there for oil so why not drain and fill the tranny at the same time. plus this fluid is damn expensive so i am happy doing 4 quarts at a time.

 

There is nothing wrong with this method, for most people, for most applications. In fact, it is a good strategy in general and similar to what I did before my 5EAT bit the dust.

 

But to be clear, it is not as good as a complete flush especially if you have increased power and use it. But then, if that's the case, the care of your fluid will be but one of the precautions to be taken.

 

However, "all the crazy talk about flushes being bad for the auto" has more than a grain of truth as well.... only it isn't the flushing that's the source of the negative press, it is the flushER and their methods that cause the problems. Done correctly, flushes are best. But done INcorrectly they can trash a transmission. Wrong fluids, wrong pressures, loose lines, and ignorant poorly trained personnel create enough problems to sour an otherwise preferred process.

 

So, there are the choices; do it yourself as sschmelcke does and get much of the fluid issue resolved safely, or find a competent and technically proficient business that can do a flush properly.

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It also got my interest so I asked him in PM. Not to worry, his situation is a little different. He autocrossed it for 2 years for example so don't worry, yours and mine probably won't see the same scenarios. He was also on a built turbo and it started eating itself on a bigger one. But I won't speak in SeeeeYas name so I'll let him chime in. Otherwise I can copy/paste his PM if he's OK with it :)
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It also got my interest so I asked him in PM. Not to worry, his situation is a little different. He autocrossed it for 2 years for example so don't worry, yours and mine probably won't see the same scenarios. He was also on a built turbo and it started eating itself on a bigger one. But I won't speak in SeeeeYas name so I'll let him chime in. Otherwise I can copy/paste his PM if he's OK with it :)

 

OK with me :).

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Well, he basically said this

You guys are all dicks
Just messing with ya :lol:

 

While I have many posts on the subject in the trans forum, basically I ran it too hard too often. I autocrossed it for two years with a maxed out VF40, made hundreds of logging runs, and in general beat the thing mercilessly. I ran 20psi on meth and the VF40 made tons of torque down low, good for the street, bad for parts.

 

During the same time period I broke my rear diff and a rear axel.

 

But it wasn't until I had installed and began tuning my AVO380 that the 5EAT finally let go. Very traumatic, very expensive. You want to avoid doing the same.

All things considered, I'd say the tranny held up like a champ.

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  • 1 year later...
You do NOT want to mix ATF. If you're running Amsoil now, it's Amsoil for life. If you plan on switching back, then it's best to do a flush in order to completely replace the ATF. It's not catastrophic to mix fluids, but they are completely different, from the viscosity to the additive package. It's akin to mixing different brands of engine oil. Besides, why pay for the Amsoil synthetic fluid only to start replacing it with a synthetic blend? Seems like a waste of money to me.
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You should go with whatever ATF you have in right now. A drain only replaces about 4.5 to 5 quarts of the total 10 quarts of ATF. A flush replaces it completely. So if you do a drain, go with the ATF type you already have. If you want to switch, you should do a flush, which is more costly, involves a flushing machine, etc.

If you do not have Amsoil in it already, it's probably not worth the money to switch over especially at Stage 1.5 power levels. For the difference in money I would save the $$ and invest into a tranny cooler which will go a longer way.

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You should go with whatever ATF you have in right now. A drain only replaces about 4.5 to 5 quarts of the total 10 quarts of ATF. A flush replaces it completely. So if you do a drain, go with the ATF type you already have. If you want to switch, you should do a flush, which is more costly, involves a flushing machine, etc.

If you do not have Amsoil in it already, it's probably not worth the money to switch over especially at Stage 1.5 power levels. For the difference in money I would save the $$ and invest into a tranny cooler which will go a longer way.

 

well I am going to get a tranny cooler. I went down to ipt to get the valve body done so whatever they use is what is in there. I know they would not have flushed the entire system. I am wondering if they added the Amsoil, or used Subaru OEM?

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