marvnmars Posted April 22, 2008 Share Posted April 22, 2008 Equipment: Eclipse CD8062 headunit w/level balancer JL Audio 500 1 sub amp JL 12w6D4V3 Sub Diamond Audio separates front speakers Massive Audio RX-6 coax for the rear doors Massive Audio NX4 full range amp for front Tsunami Competition Series 17 foot RCA's 1 4 channel & 1 2 channel 26 feet of 4 gauge pwr wire (purple) 6 ft 4 gauge pwr wire (grey) Ipod Crap load of Dynamat Most of the electronics are left over from my Mazda Milly S. I have a ppi 650 & pwr 4800 amp that will not fit in this car the way I want things to go..Anyone want them pm me before I put them on ebay. The PDX series run very cool, small footprint, very effecient, and sound pretty darn good (not as good as my Mcintosih, but a lot smaller) As of tonight, I have run all wires to the doors and trunk (not into the doors yet) I will tell you that if you run the wires through the factory runs along the door sills, you will find it to go much easier. Do not do as i did and try to run your wires over the factory clips, it will cause the door sills to stick up. Once I removed the driverside door sill (big pain in the rear) I noticed an unused clip on the side of the white plastic clip. The space was not big enough to run the 4 gauge, so I took my drimmel tool and attached the cutting bit to it. The drimmel cut through the clip and allowed me to run the wire there. This allowed me to run the 4 gauge through the factory channel, the speaker & remote turn on wire through the same clips as the factorey harness. All went back together with relative ease. Tomorrow night I will try to get the speaker wires through the doors and post pics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpawnGT Posted April 22, 2008 Share Posted April 22, 2008 whats with posting this twice? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ItalynStylion Posted April 22, 2008 Share Posted April 22, 2008 Looks like a good system. Are you done installing it? Let's see some pictures! Where are you in Texas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marvnmars Posted April 22, 2008 Author Share Posted April 22, 2008 If I posted twice, it was by accident (in my defense, it was 3am when I finally finished). I work usually until 9pm and can only work on the car at night, also since it is already getting into the 90's here in Austin during the day, I only want to work on it at night. I will post lots of pics as soon as I figure out how to resize them. Darn new camera...too many mega pixles..lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpawnGT Posted April 22, 2008 Share Posted April 22, 2008 Just use photobucket.com and they should resize themselves when you copy the img links. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marvnmars Posted April 23, 2008 Author Share Posted April 23, 2008 Thank you seberry, I am using a new machine that has vista (and I don't like it much) and I miss some of xp functionality/speed/ease of use.... Here is a pic of the driverside door channel and the tab I was referring to that I cut out w/drimmel, and then of the wrong way to run your speaker wires...not on top of the plugs, but through them, makes the carpet lay flat that way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marvnmars Posted April 23, 2008 Author Share Posted April 23, 2008 Also, if anyone wants any pics or has any questions as to what/when/where, ask away and I will do my best while the car is still apart, tomorrow I hope to finish my spacer rings and get the doors dynamated, and put back together. And maybe start on tearing down the dash for the radio mount. All or some if it doesn't rain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marvnmars Posted April 23, 2008 Author Share Posted April 23, 2008 I have pwr seat on driver side and did not remove my seats I can messaure, but it will also depend upon how low you have your seat. (I will say that I did disconnect my battery before I started removing any parts due to fear of air bag deploymnet.) I have removed the door sills, kick panel covers, door panels, rear seat, plastic trim piece seperating the doors (this is where I will run spkr wire into the back doors), and spare tire cover. Removal of the door sills was biggest pain so far (if you do not have a panel popper, get one, it will make job easier). Also a long and large zip tie is very handy when running wires too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marvnmars Posted April 23, 2008 Author Share Posted April 23, 2008 The rails for the seat will not move, but the height of the seat bottom will..somewhere there is a thread showing the seat plugs (seatbelt, airbg, and some other sensor)... http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=52672 shows the underside the drivers seat. I read through your question post about measurments....my best suggestion for you is to think about mounting the amp (alpine pdx series anyway) to the underside of the seat with a homemade bracket. You might also think about using a pdx series for your sub amp too (due to the low heat from these amps and fact that they will work justfine with 4 gauge wire. Placing the x-overs in the doors is what seems to be easiest option, not much space behind the kick panels. I chose not to mount the amps under the seats due to the fact that at times people might sit in the back seats and did not want my amps and wiring to be underfoot or damaged by the feet of back seat passengers...just my 2 cents worth...also easier to mount in the trunk over the spare. If you use the pdx series they should be fine in the space without much if any venting. I have seen them mounted is smaller warmer spaces in cars and not come back for any problems, and this is Texas where it has already hit above 90 degrees. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marvnmars Posted April 29, 2008 Author Share Posted April 29, 2008 I am finally finished with one door...LOL I spent some of Sunday doing the basic Dynamating with a friend helping, and finished the passenger side door after work tonight. I was going to do both front doors, but found an error in one of my speaker spacers, more sanding tomorrow...here is a pic of said door completed. Sorry for the 2 pics, but I was fitting the door panel and did not want to remove it again. I will hopefully get the other door and crossovers mounted tomorrow and be finished with the front doors. Wednesday I plan on deconstructing the dash and installing the new radio, which leaves Sunday for the wiring....sigh...and next week for the clean up of everything. I will decide about keeping my tweets in factory location or at least re-aiming them from firing upward...I have to see how it sounds as is first, good part though is that I will be driving it w/out subs for a week so I should be able to make an accurate decision if I like them there or not. I hope they sound great as is, but doubt it...not a very linear plane with the mid bass... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ItalynStylion Posted April 29, 2008 Share Posted April 29, 2008 Great job deadening! I wish more people understood the difference it makes. Did you just do the outside of the door or did you do the inside too? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marvnmars Posted April 29, 2008 Author Share Posted April 29, 2008 Thank you IS. I did a few pieces on the inside of the door, but did not cover it as I did the outside. I probably have a total of 2 sq ft on the inside of the door, mostly behind where the speaker will be, but also on the inside of part that locks the door into the car. Getting the spacers sanded to fit was a bit of a pima, but will fix that today...I was sanding with out the door panels handy and sanded one down enough, but the other still needs somemore time. The back doors should be a breeze as there is planty of space and no slant to the rings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marvnmars Posted April 30, 2008 Author Share Posted April 30, 2008 Drivers side door finished tonight...if I catch my second wind will tear down console tonight...first pic is of the first level of Dynamat, then you will see the additions as i go along...when I covered the big hole in the door I left the paper backing on the part that will be inside of the door handle cables. It should never happen, but just in case it would keep the window arm from getting mired in Dynamat (did this on passenger side too). Oh yea, the one tool not mentioned about using Dynamat....Bandaids, it is like having 100 papercuts on your hands when you finish...lol Now after sitting down for a few and drinking a cold frosty beverage, I think sleep will be the answer.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ItalynStylion Posted April 30, 2008 Share Posted April 30, 2008 Oh shit yeah, the foil backing is thick and very sharp. That's why I limit how much deadener I lay in a certain amount of time. I have a pair of deadener sissors that I use specifically for that. They get really gummed up after a while and you just need to rub them in solvent to clean them. A good pair of scissors is your best friend when deadening. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marvnmars Posted April 30, 2008 Author Share Posted April 30, 2008 I just used a pair of utility scissors that I bought from Harbor Freight tools a while back. I did not want to destroy a good pair, the $0.99 ones worked just fine. I also discovered that a small utility knife works great for trimming the grommet holes. All in all it was not a difficult task, just a very time consuming task. I went ahead and removed the radio last night while it was cool. I will solder the new radio connections and get it ready in the metra kit. I do not have auto climate controls, but did have a prob with the ac controls comming out. There is a blue line that controls the hot/cold air (basically opens and closes the vent for the heater core). If anyone else has been through this and sees this please let me know if I even need to pull ac unit out to make this work. I am thankful that Metra makes a dash kit, but I wish it did not need assembly... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marvnmars Posted April 30, 2008 Author Share Posted April 30, 2008 Ok..I have the radio installed into the Metra kit. If you go this route, do not use the supplied Metra option, use the cage that came with your radio. The first pics you see show the flimsy snap clip Metra uses to hold the radio in place (it does a bad job, a very bad job) as well as the trim ring, neither really "snap" into place with any sureness. I used the cage that came with my radio (painted it flat black, a little trick I learned years ago) and the orignal radio trim ring, made for a much better fit. The pics show how far the Metra option makes the radio stick out. The cage and trim ring worked much better. I also included a pic showing a strap on the back of the radio (because it makes it a pia for a thief to quickly take my radio). I will hopefully finish this today as well as front crossover placement and post pics tonight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marvnmars Posted May 2, 2008 Author Share Posted May 2, 2008 Ok, I needed sleep last night....didn't do it though. i finished the front of the car, everything from the dront seats foward is complete. I will gice a bit of advice to you though. MARK the cigiratte lighter plug. I finished installing the radio before leaving for work and came back home after work and started to put the dash back together....that is when I discovered that I couldn't find the cig lighter plug....AGHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!! So I tried to feel for it behind the radio olny removing the side trim, but noooo I could not find it, then I removed the radio, balanced line adapter and a crap load of rca's only to find that I had pulled the plug through and placed it on the drivers side (I looked at the plug earlier and told myself that it was on the wrong side of the car and couldn't be it). After much self cussing I put all back together and waisted a good 45 min then it was 5am. I went to sleep. Here are pics of completed install. The first pic is the end result, #2 or 3 is the blue a/c cable that the metra kit says needs to be disconnected (I did not disconnect it, was not necessary for me to do and looked to be a big pita to reconnect) but was not a problem for me. After finishing it, the only problem I have the getting the top left corrner of the dash kit to seat right with the silver trim. The other pic of the wire mess from hell is from removing the radio to find that plug...lol I will take tonight off and hopefully finish enough on Sat & Sun to get me on my road trip next week. Going to Knoxville, then on to DC, and back in 15 days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ItalynStylion Posted May 2, 2008 Share Posted May 2, 2008 ^ OMG.....where do you plan to hide all that? (referring to the RCA's and rats nest) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
basmoq Posted May 2, 2008 Share Posted May 2, 2008 Lol, I went through all this already, I'm just down to putting Rammat in the trunk hatch and on the floors and my car will be complete. I finished my subwoofer enclosure today, glad to have that one done, fiberglassing is a PITA. Where do you plan to mount your amps? I used the rack over the spare tire, I just haven't decided how I want to vent it yet. So far the amps aren't getting hot enough to concern me, but come summer I will have to come up with something... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marvnmars Posted May 3, 2008 Author Share Posted May 3, 2008 Yes, the "yellow mess" was a pita, but was able to hide it behind the panel leading to the glove box (plenty of uncluttered space there). The eclipse hu that I am using has a balanced line adapter that requires rca's from the hu to the adapter. The Mazda I had didn't have space in the radio compartment to mount the adapter so I needed 6ft of rca to get me there. The cables are still in as new shape and I couuldn't find a 6" rca from anybody, although there are plenty 18" ones around. As far as mounting the amps, I am going to use a piece of MDF over the spare tire. I haven't even started my sub boxes yet, I may skip it and pay someone as I HATE fiberglass and have a buddy who does boat repair and I might be able to trade out for them. For now, I am going to use my old traditional sub box until I figgure out what to do with the custom one. I am going to see my family next week and may do it there as one of my brothers has a full wood shop in his garage. Whaever the case, I am just glad to have the car back together as it still doesn't have 1,000 miles on it yet. I will hopefully finish the wiring of the amps after work today and tomorrow as it will take a bit of tweekeing before it is finished. All in all, this is not the most difficult car to work on (no 86 vette, darn dash removal), just be patient, look at the posts of others (give them thanks) who have been there before you and do not force anything back into place that is not supposed to be a forced fit. I will post pics of the amp rack when I finish it (still have to get the carpet) and the wiring either before I leave or after I get back from the road trip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marvnmars Posted May 9, 2008 Author Share Posted May 9, 2008 One more thing to consider when doing this, the Legacy door panels will work better if they are "loaded". Loaded means that there is pressure from the inside out of the panel. This can easily be achived by using a good foam type product similar to that which runs along the bottom of the door panel. Dynamat along with every other sound barrier maker has a product that will work, they will also charge you big $$ for something that is basically an HVAC foam product. The one thing that the higher $$ product may do is be more uv resistant, the only thing is that foam will be behind your door panel so not a real issue. The foam can be bought from your local Low or Home Depot or most any ac/heater HVAC type store and have an advesive back. The important thing is to not put too much on that the door panel will not snap into place, but enough to stop the ratteling of the plastic panel. Fortunately the non brand name stuff is inexpensive and you can easily trim it with scissors. I have yet to do it on my doors, but know that I will have to soon or the rattling of the panel pins will drive me crazy....No time to do it now, but as soon as I start, so will the pics.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marvnmars Posted December 30, 2011 Author Share Posted December 30, 2011 Update to my system...i removedthe 2 jl 10"s and installed one jl 12w7 in the trunk, used a single sub box slanted against the passenger side back seat and it is a tight fit, so tight that it has yet to move without me making it move. trying to mount a 12w7 in the side might have been a little too much, and this was much easier, just had to notch the top corner of the box for the frame support under the hat rack. FYI, one 12w7 hits a lot harder then 2 10 " w3s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FiberglassCustoms Posted January 3, 2012 Share Posted January 3, 2012 Curious to see what Diamonds you were running & how you liked them? Good job on the Deadening. Have you looked in to CLD Tiles? As far as your "Rats Nest," this should be self explanatory: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=46KP4tRh-DU]How To Make Custom RCA Cables - YouTube[/ame] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marvnmars Posted January 5, 2012 Author Share Posted January 5, 2012 well, the diamonds died, just like my a/d/s's...the frick frackin alpine has blown 3 sets of seperates, but only the driver side speakers, and always the tweeter 1st...why? I don't know, but I am getting rid of it this month and going with a jl hd series 4 chan. as far as making my own rca's i went to school for the uncle (uncle sam) years ago to learn the "correct" way to soilder and just chose the easy way out on this, the module is up behind the far right corner of the glove box, meaning i only had a few inches of slack from the yellow monster. i have a set of Focal 6 KRX3 Midbass for the front doors, and am trying to find a set of silk dome tweets that i like to match with them. the focal tweets are fine, but my ears just seem to like the silk soooo much better, i have an old set of the infinity kappa series (think late 90"s era) tweets and 4" (i had an 86 toyota supra at the time) along witht he massive crossover that if i can fit the tweet in my door, i may use as they would go down to somewhere around 3khz for a xover point and had a smooth transition all the way through...not sure yet though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marvnmars Posted January 5, 2012 Author Share Posted January 5, 2012 as far as the diamonds go, they where hex 5s600s and sounded great till they died, i since went to boston midlevel seperates, which the driver side is now almost gone too... i replaced all wire for the driver door,swapped rt and left inputs all the way around and still have the issue of the amp blowing the drivers front door... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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