Josef Posted April 18, 2008 Share Posted April 18, 2008 http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100194769&N=10000003+90021 i used this stuff to make bushings on another car of mine. it works great, dries hard with flex. anyone ever used this or something like this to fill the front lca bushings? im might try it. another almost free mod. its kinda like window weld. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RochNY91TSI Posted April 18, 2008 Share Posted April 18, 2008 The product you are trying to view is not currently available. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josef Posted April 18, 2008 Author Share Posted April 18, 2008 works for me... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RangerMan Posted April 18, 2008 Share Posted April 18, 2008 works for me... It is probably still in your cache. The linky no worky. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josef Posted April 18, 2008 Author Share Posted April 18, 2008 try this... http://www.stickwithpl.com/Products.aspx?ID=fef65cc9-47bf-4802-aaa9-a343f2ef9458 http://www.stickwithpl.com/upload/PL%20PREM%20L.gifhttp://www.stickwithpl.com/images/home/spacer.gifBack to PANEL CONSTRUCTION ADHESIVES PL® Premium Polyurethane Construction Adhesive PL® Premium is a polyurethane adhesive that provides superior results and is safer to use. PL® Premium generates three times the power of traditional construction adhesives. It may be used inside or outside and will last as long as the surfaces it joins together. </SPAN> HOW TO USE: To ensure positive adhesion, make sure the surfaces to be joined are clean and free of dirt and foreign material. Cut the smallest opening possible in spout (just large enough so adhesive can flow easily when gunned). Because of PL® Premiums unusual strength, much less adhesive is needed compared to traditional construction adhesives. Place cartridge in caulking gun and puncture seal inside spout with nail. Apply by forcing adhesive onto surfaces. When working on rough surfaces, use enough adhesive to fill gaps. PL® Premium will bridge up to 3/8”. Use mechanical fasteners to hold the surface in place until the adhesive fully cures. Drying time may vary, depending on the humidity and porosity of the materials bonded together. PL Premium's reactive nature allows the formation of high strength bonds quickly. Many applications will develop full strength in less than 24 hours. Material may be repositioned up to 30 minutes without losing adhesive strength. Available in 10.2 oz. & 28 oz. Cartridges Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josef Posted April 18, 2008 Author Share Posted April 18, 2008 heres a pic of the bushing i made http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d43/coastals12/112233011.jpg http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d43/coastals12/11212002.jpg i also used it to fill the motor mounts on my s14 too, they are nice and stiff now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lilbrudder Posted April 18, 2008 Share Posted April 18, 2008 how does it compare to 3m window weld($10)? price? stiffness? color? any feedback on the lca bushing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josef Posted April 18, 2008 Author Share Posted April 18, 2008 how does it compare to 3m window weld($10)? price? stiffness? color? any feedback on the lca bushing? i hear its the same stuff just cheaper. the pic above is the color(tan), but they have another one thats grey. its paintable too btw. the stiffness is comparable to energy suspension bushings. i have the ES bushing kit for my s14 and at least to the touch it feels like the same density. i noticed my oem lca bushings are starting to tear a bit, subaru says its cause i drive it to hard and they wouldn't replace it. i dont fell like arguing with them so i might go buy some more of the stuff and fill it in. you do have to let it dry for atleast 24hrs though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitetiger Posted April 18, 2008 Share Posted April 18, 2008 I wonder if that will work for the rear diff bushings in the rear subframe? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josef Posted April 18, 2008 Author Share Posted April 18, 2008 I wonder if that will work for the rear diff bushings in the rear subframe? it should, thats what i used it for on my s12. if need to be you can drill holes in the old bushings and fill it with this stuff. it is definately stronger than oem rubber. poly ftw Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted April 18, 2008 Share Posted April 18, 2008 Interesting....and good find. I'll have to remember this one. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pillboy Posted April 18, 2008 Share Posted April 18, 2008 That stuff is excellent as a caulk (vastly superior on exterior house surfaces as opposed to acrylic latex and I liked it better than silicone because it is paintable and has just as much longevity). Many years ago it was available only to pros and was not in the home improvement stores. As a substance for do-it-yourself bushings...I would be a little skeptical as this is not its intended purpose. I just noticed yours is labeled as a construction adhesive. There are also products label as caulks too. I doubt they differ much. This is another brand. It is still ugly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lilbrudder Posted April 19, 2008 Share Posted April 19, 2008 i used the 3m stuff for all kinds of bushings on my SVX....way better than oem for feel, durability, and most important price. if this stuff is anything like 3m i will be picking some up on sunday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josef Posted April 19, 2008 Author Share Posted April 19, 2008 get some, put a little on something, let it dry overnight(24hrs) and feel the stiffness. i know its probably not the same mixture as a poly bushing uses but i bet its close. if you are just filling in a existing bushing i dont see any problem with it. you'll still have strength with the rubber bushing but you will definately add rigidy and durability with the tube stuff. for only $6 you arent going to be losing much money if you arent satisfied with it. hardest part would be not being able to drive the car for the 24hr drying time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lilbrudder Posted April 22, 2008 Share Posted April 22, 2008 Got some, made LCA bushings, 48 hours later.......not even close to dry. if they aren't dry by next week i will have to scrub that stuff out and go back to 3M WW. i hope they dry, i can tell already they would be much stiffer than WW. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josef Posted April 23, 2008 Author Share Posted April 23, 2008 Got some, made LCA bushings, 48 hours later.......not even close to dry. if they aren't dry by next week i will have to scrub that stuff out and go back to 3M WW. i hope they dry, i can tell already they would be much stiffer than WW. that bushing i made in the pic above took around 2 days to dry. i put it on real heavy. im gonna do my lgt's this weekend, i'll fill in one side at a time, it'll dry faster that way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lilbrudder Posted April 23, 2008 Share Posted April 23, 2008 that's what i got so far, i made the complete bushing through and through. looks good but i'm having doubts it will dry all the way though(in a reasonable amount of time.) keeping my fingers crossed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ebpda9 Posted April 23, 2008 Share Posted April 23, 2008 i used the window weld to make motormounts and rear LCA on my integra and motormounts on the accord. It worked awesome, and it dried in about a day. I wanna do the rear diff bushings and tranny mount on the legacy. For the rear diff they will be done on the car but with the diff removed so the bushings will relax a bit. Also the ww seemed to be a bit softer than any of the ES red bushings, but about the same with the black ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josef Posted April 23, 2008 Author Share Posted April 23, 2008 [ATTACH]51840[/ATTACH] that's what i got so far, i made the complete bushing through and through. looks good but i'm having doubts it will dry all the way though(in a reasonable amount of time.) keeping my fingers crossed. you havent had the clear wrap on while waiting for it to dry, have you? it wont dry as fast like that. its pourous and needs air to release the solvents. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lilbrudder Posted April 23, 2008 Share Posted April 23, 2008 no, just for the first few hours only on the bottom side. since there was no rubber to hold the inner metal spacing i used it to keep every thing in place. after the top set enough to keep the pieces from moving i flipped it over and uncovered the bottom then set it outside in the sun to dry. i haven't checked them since i last posted so hopefully there's progress. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lilbrudder Posted May 3, 2008 Share Posted May 3, 2008 well, after about 3 weeks waiting for this PL construction adhesive to dry i had to give this stuff a NO GO. For the LCA bushings it dried only the first 1/8 inch or so on both top and bottom which left about 2 inches of completely wet/uncured urethane between. i tried to apply a little force to see if it hold on the car and it broke like an egg. i just finished 3MWW LCA bushings they should be dry in 48hours. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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