julikop Posted April 17, 2008 Share Posted April 17, 2008 Hey guys I just bought a head unit from Crutchfield and will be placing an order for a amp / dual 10" sub package soon. I have a few questions regarding the wiring of the amp. I have searched the forum and tried to find all the info that I need but I have three questions that I still gotta ask. I have learned from searching that there is a grommet that is near the fenderwell near the drivers footwell. (This is where the hood release cable routes through.) Also I am thinking about routing the wire along side the gas/trunk release cable which go lengthwise underneath the rear seat and out into the trunk in the passenger side. Now that I have explained my routing plan I want to ask a few question to anyone who has installed an amp in the trunk. 1. In order to remove the trunk lining, [from searching] it seems that there are 2 push-pins that are behind the rear seat back. Is there any other way to remove the rear trunk lining without removing the rear seatback? 2. Is there enough space underneath the door sill area to route a 4-gauge wire or do I have to use a 8-gauge wire instead? 3. Is it better to route the amp patch cable (RCA's) and the turn-on wire over the top, through the A-Pillar and over and back or is it better to run these wires under the sill as well? PS. I have installing a head unit in 3 other cars but this is my first time installing an amp so any and all answers / advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
str8dwn Posted April 17, 2008 Share Posted April 17, 2008 Welcome to the board. Do you know if you have manual or auto AC? If you have manual, then you're good to go for adding your new deck from Crutchfield. If you have auto, you have some major hurdles. What size (wattage) is your amplifier? That determines the power wire size. 4ga is not a problem size-wise. You will want to run your remote and RCAs on the opposite side of the car from the power wire. This is to avoid noise from entering your system. No need to run the RCAs up above the floor. Both power and RCAs will fit nicely underneath the sills. Are you powering all speakers in the car or just adding the amp to powr a sub? I recommend you buy a set of trim tools (http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=12214&itemType=PRODUCT&iMainCat=608&iSubCat=611&iProductID=12214) to easily pull up the clips and pieces. This will do it without damaging them. They also work nicely to remove the trim around the shifter/radio. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
julikop Posted April 17, 2008 Author Share Posted April 17, 2008 Hey thanks a lot for your quick reply. I have a 2.5i so it does have the manual AC controls (luckily, I've read the work that needs to be done to use the auto AC controls just for information so...) which I checked before ordering the head unit; the amp that I have selected is 500W and Crutchfield recommends 4 gauge wiring. (Link: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-ak7AWrIlZHG/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?I=023PCA1350). I am only using an amp to power 2 Sony 10" subs. I actually also bought a trim panel removal tool from Crutchfield when I ordered the head unit just for that porupose. Also, any info on snaking the wire from the end of the sill into the trunk? Does the rear seatback need to be taken off? Thanks for all your help and your quick response BTW. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CTATV Posted April 17, 2008 Share Posted April 17, 2008 general rule of thumb is 500 watts or under you can use 8 gauge wire, 500 watts or above 4 gauge. I always used 4 gauge myself. I dont know how much the alternator puts out but you can get a Cap for like 50 bucks its not a bad investment to keep your lights from flickering with big bass hits. 1.5 farad should be enough Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
julikop Posted April 17, 2008 Author Share Posted April 17, 2008 I've seen 8-gauge rated for anything from 350-500 watts so that does make sense; and I actually saw a capacitor (I believe on SonicElectronix.com) for like $60 or so and it was rated 1.2f, which I was considering but wanted to see if I needed it after installing the system and see if headlights dim. Thanks for your help BTW. general rule of thumb is 500 watts or under you can use 8 gauge wire, 500 watts or above 4 gauge. I always used 4 gauge myself. I dont know how much the alternator puts out but you can get a Cap for like 50 bucks its not a bad investment to keep your lights from flickering with big bass hits. 1.5 farad should be enough Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CTATV Posted April 17, 2008 Share Posted April 17, 2008 I've seen 8-gauge rated for anything from 350-500 watts so that does make sense; and I actually saw a capacitor (I believe on SonicElectronix.com) for like $60 or so and it was rated 1.2f, which I was considering but wanted to see if I needed it after installing the system and see if headlights dim. Thanks for your help BTW. no prob. Yeah I picked up my cap on ebay for like 45 bucks I think. I never had a Cap in my pickup truck in highschool but when I got my 300m I got a cap. Havent installed all my equiptment from my last car yet. Summer project... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mevanvt Posted April 17, 2008 Share Posted April 17, 2008 Just make sure you run your power wire on one side (most likely drivers side) and then run your speaker wires and rca's down the passenger side sills. If you run power and RCA together you can get noise in the system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CTATV Posted April 18, 2008 Share Posted April 18, 2008 Just make sure you run your power wire on one side (most likely drivers side) and then run your speaker wires and rca's down the passenger side sills. If you run power and RCA together you can get noise in the system. yep, audible RPM gauge not cool:cool: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
julikop Posted April 18, 2008 Author Share Posted April 18, 2008 LOL, good point; I'm going to post a step-by-step write up when I take on this project. I also got a friend of mine who has done this a few audio installs to help me out with this as well and that's one of the things he said as well. yep, audible RPM gauge not cool:cool: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EJ252NA Posted July 30, 2008 Share Posted July 30, 2008 Just to keep alive this thread again, just want to ask you guys how you managed to run the power cables from the battery going inside the cabin? As I was looking for a way to have it run inside but can not find once, would appreciate your help. Plus how do you remove the back seat? Very sorry for the noobie question, as I am one. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaStaMooN Posted July 30, 2008 Share Posted July 30, 2008 I ran my 4gauge wire through the grommet in the fender area... plenty of room and an empty grommet. The backseat is very easy to remove, the bottom part really just pops out.. you just pull up on the front of it (near the sides and in the middle) and then wiggle it out of its clips in the rear. I was suprised how easy it was actually. I didnt bother to remove the backrest part of it. Jon - vBGarage Profile Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EJ252NA Posted July 30, 2008 Share Posted July 30, 2008 I ran my 4gauge wire through the grommet in the fender area... plenty of room and an empty grommet. The backseat is very easy to remove, the bottom part really just pops out.. you just pull up on the front of it (near the sides and in the middle) and then wiggle it out of its clips in the rear. I was suprised how easy it was actually. I didnt bother to remove the backrest part of it. Hi thanks for your reply, so this grommet your telling is at the firewall? So If I am looking under the dashboard driver side, where can I find it? As for the back seat, sorry I meant was the back rest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaStaMooN Posted July 30, 2008 Share Posted July 30, 2008 the backrest has a few bolts that are visible once you remove the bottom part. Then i believe it just unhooks from the top/rear deck. There are some posts about it here somewhere I used. But like I said, you can easily pass all wires and such without having to remove the backrest part of the seat. The grommet can be found by removing the fendercover of the driverside front wheel. I turned the wheel all the way left I believe, then unbolted the fender liner and removed it. You will see the grommets plain as day at that point. One is used by the hood release I believe and some other wires... the other which is just about the perfect size for a 4 gauge power wire is empty and just waiting to be reamed out! haha Jon - vBGarage Profile Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EJ252NA Posted July 30, 2008 Share Posted July 30, 2008 the backrest has a few bolts that are visible once you remove the bottom part. Then i believe it just unhooks from the top/rear deck. There are some posts about it here somewhere I used. But like I said, you can easily pass all wires and such without having to remove the backrest part of the seat. The grommet can be found by removing the fendercover of the driverside front wheel. I turned the wheel all the way left I believe, then unbolted the fender liner and removed it. You will see the grommets plain as day at that point. One is used by the hood release I believe and some other wires... the other which is just about the perfect size for a 4 gauge power wire is empty and just waiting to be reamed out! haha Hahaha! Thanks man! Your a big help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyShackleford Posted July 30, 2008 Share Posted July 30, 2008 Just to keep alive this thread again, just want to ask you guys how you managed to run the power cables from the battery going inside the cabin? As I was looking for a way to have it run inside but can not find once, would appreciate your help. Plus how do you remove the back seat? Very sorry for the noobie question, as I am one. Thanks. This is the third thread you've asked thsi question in ... I gave a fairly detailed answer in the sticky FAQ thread. Check it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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