qikslvr Posted April 16, 2008 Share Posted April 16, 2008 The blue T connector is under the intercooler, but it's real close to the black intake manifold. After you remove the IC; you follow the small black hose that was attached to the BOV; it will take you to the T in question. It sits dead center of the intake manifold on the back side. Let's kick this pig! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
executor485 Posted April 16, 2008 Share Posted April 16, 2008 The blue T connector is under the intercooler, but it's real close to the black intake manifold. After you remove the IC; you follow the small black hose that was attached to the BOV; it will take you to the T in question. It sits dead center of the intake manifold on the back side. Thats the one! The car was idling like death and would even die out while sitting at a stoplight sometimes. Impossible to see without taking the IC off though. If I pass you on the right, I'm flipping you off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Picture_Shooter Posted April 17, 2008 Author Share Posted April 17, 2008 ok. I have a 00 2.5L w/o turbo. LOL> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
executor485 Posted April 17, 2008 Share Posted April 17, 2008 ok. I have a 00 2.5L w/o turbo. LOL> Take starter fluid and spray the vacuum lines. You may still have a loose line. If the engine rev's while your spraying, you've got a leak/hose not fit on. If I pass you on the right, I'm flipping you off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Picture_Shooter Posted April 19, 2008 Author Share Posted April 19, 2008 Sup guys, So today I decided to take out the spark plugs and let me tell you this. Both passangers side spark plug wires were bad. The metal prongs that click from the cable to the spark plug was broken off in the plug. I also notice that both rear spark plug (left and right side) when pulling out the plug wires they had oil on them. Anyways, I put on new wires and plugs. No light right now and I do not feel any difference in performance at all at this stage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Picture_Shooter Posted April 21, 2008 Author Share Posted April 21, 2008 Sh*************TTTTTTTTTTT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Engine light came back on. Oh well, I'll try to look for some vacuume leaks, but I am betting its my injectors. I bet putting that LUCAS crap fu%ked everything up!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted April 21, 2008 Share Posted April 21, 2008 Lucas - the man who invented darkness! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Picture_Shooter Posted April 22, 2008 Author Share Posted April 22, 2008 I'm gonna try seafoam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Sinister Posted April 22, 2008 Share Posted April 22, 2008 Have you had your valves adjusted? I'm not sure about the 2000s, but the previous model required an adjustment at 105K. Some guy was having the same type of problem and it went away after the adjustment. The second possibility is that the car isn't liking the switch from winter to summer gas. If the car is performing normally (not rough, stumbling, etc), you can try ignoring it and it may go away by itself (after the ECU re-learns with the new fuel), or you can try resetting the ECU (unplug your battery for a while). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qikslvr Posted April 22, 2008 Share Posted April 22, 2008 I'm at about a month now on new injectors and no CEL or P020# codes so far. Let's kick this pig! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Picture_Shooter Posted April 23, 2008 Author Share Posted April 23, 2008 Guys – I totally forgot to mention this. When I pulled out the old spark-plug wires on the driver side, I noticed that the spark-plug tubes (wires) had motor oil on both them. The passenger side spark-plug tubes (wires) did not. As for the spark-plugs themselves they had no signs of oil exposed to them at all / only the spark plug tubes I’m wondering if maybe the CEL code is pulling up b/c of leaky valve cover gaskets (inside / not outside) The valve covers on the outside shows no oil leaks what so-ever. Any idea? ~ I’m thinking that maybe oil leaking into the spark plug area is causing the ruff idel to occure, then making the CEL kicks on. Then as the engine reaches regular temperature and burns off the excess oil from the spark-plug tubes / area the engine idles fine like nothing is wrong? What do you guys think? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CasopoliS Posted April 23, 2008 Share Posted April 23, 2008 I am not too sure if a leaking gasket will produce misfire codes.... but I have not had the first-hand experience. Take it to a trusted Subaru shop? At this point that might have been the easier, cheaper solution... though you did not know that going in. I have a gut-wrenching suspicion it is something somewhat simple. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted April 23, 2008 Share Posted April 23, 2008 Guys – I totally forgot to mention this. When I pulled out the old spark-plug wires on the driver side, I noticed that the spark-plug tubes (wires) had motor oil on both them. That is one possible cause - it's not a serious trouble more than the mess to lift off the valve cover and replace the seals. Replace all seals regardless, they are cheap compared to the time it costs you. Make sure that you clean all wires thoroughly and replace the spark plugs. (Spark plugs don't like oil on the outer side - their inner sealings may break down) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Picture_Shooter Posted April 24, 2008 Author Share Posted April 24, 2008 Ehsnils - How hard do you say it is to remove and replace these valve cover gaskets? I was looking at it and it does not look like an easy task. The driver side looks like it would be a harder challenge. Any comments? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted April 24, 2008 Share Posted April 24, 2008 I didn't state that it would be easy, and you will have to remove things like the air filter, battery etc. I did access, remove and replace the valve covers and valve lifters on the old XT I had, and that was possible without too much work, even if it did take some time. A good set of metric tools is what you need, I would recommend sockets with 1/4" drive for that work. It's a bit tight, but it's not impossible unless you have hands that are better used to swing an axe and bigger work. There is no extreme torque used to mount the valve covers so it should be a relatively easy work. The most time-consuming part will be to remove all offending hoses and pipework that's in the way - and then remember to reconnect everything afterwards (from own experience...). Just be careful with your knuckles... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Picture_Shooter Posted May 1, 2008 Author Share Posted May 1, 2008 After thinking about the whole FI delima. I am thinking that maybe the Air Fuel Ratio Sensor might be bad. Any of you ever had to replace it and if so, what made you replace it? Symptoms prior before replacing? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Picture_Shooter Posted May 13, 2008 Author Share Posted May 13, 2008 HaHa!!! Well after $500.00, to find out I need to get the valves adjusted. Runs like a champ. no more ruff start up idol issue and bye bye check engine light! The subie machanic say one of the valves was super tight. I doubt it was done @ the 106K mile service (now have 132K) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CasopoliS Posted May 13, 2008 Share Posted May 13, 2008 congrats. now just keep the car maintained on a tight schedule... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Sinister Posted May 13, 2008 Share Posted May 13, 2008 HaHa!!! Well after $500.00, to find out I need to get the valves adjusted. Runs like a champ. no more ruff start up idol issue and bye bye check engine light! The subie machanic say one of the valves was super tight. I doubt it was done @ the 106K mile service (now have 132K) How much did the valve adjustment cost? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Picture_Shooter Posted May 14, 2008 Author Share Posted May 14, 2008 How much did the valve adjustment cost? it was like 450.00 + tax. Almost $500.00 Valve cover gaskets included , which was needed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Picture_Shooter Posted May 14, 2008 Author Share Posted May 14, 2008 congrats. now just keep the car maintained on a tight schedule... For sure! I am not looking to rag the %hit out of this car. Love it a lot and even the subie shop and service guys was complementing on how clean and how she roars http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v326/hifi_homeboy/Subaru%202000%20Legact%20GT/P1030710.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Sinister Posted May 15, 2008 Share Posted May 15, 2008 it was like 450.00 + tax. Almost $500.00 Valve cover gaskets included , which was needed Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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