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hawk pads aren't bedded in yet, but let me tell you. THIS is how it should have come from factory.

 

i did a 75-40 mph test and it was smooth. no shaking like it normally does with stock pads. it's got bite right now which i think will go away after i bed them. solid smooth braking. now i just need to do a 100-50mph test.

 

this should be done with new tires. should be done before an ap imo. put it very high on the list.

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when we did mine we got it up to 60 mph and slammed on the brakes. repeated this process about 4-5 times. then we let them cool down and did it again for 4-5 times.

OTM.

Sorry I didn't mean to start a war which mainly forum people is all about ;).
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Stock brakes not that good? Thats dissapointing. I am always impressed with the brakes I have on my '99. This car can stop and I have had a few close calls on a dangerous road near me with dogs running out and people trying to pass and causing accidents (which was an absolutely terrifying exprience). Couldn't ask for anything better, though if I had a turbo.....
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Stock brakes not that good? Thats dissapointing. I am always impressed with the brakes I have on my '99. This car can stop and I have had a few close calls on a dangerous road near me with dogs running out and people trying to pass and causing accidents (which was an absolutely terrifying exprience). Couldn't ask for anything better, though if I had a turbo.....

 

ahem...it was mostly "high speed" braking that he car is lacking in. below 60 is ok. after that i get the shakes.

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Stock brakes not that good? Thats dissapointing. I am always impressed with the brakes I have on my '99. This car can stop and I have had a few close calls on a dangerous road near me with dogs running out and people trying to pass and causing accidents (which was an absolutely terrifying exprience). Couldn't ask for anything better, though if I had a turbo.....

 

Here we go with another automotive myth. The stock Subaru Legacy GT brakes are fine for street use. The pads are fine as long as your not running on a track or driving real fast on mountain roads.

 

As long as the braking system can lock up (or apply enough pressure to engage ABS), stopping prower will be determined by the coefficient of friction of the road and tires. Stopping distances will remain virtually unaffected.

 

Higher performance brake pads will probably help decrease stopping distances after repeated brake applications as the brakes heat up.

 

If your driving style really heats up the brakes, your primary concern should be the wet boiling point of that brake fluid you've never replaced. That sinking feeling you get when you ride your brakes all the way down a mountain and your pedal goes to the floor and you fly off a cliff is mostly due to your brake fluid boiling.

 

If you ever go to Pikes Peak, you will notice a little checkpoint about 1/2 way up the mountain. Coming down you must stop as a ranger points a laser thermometer at your front brakes. If they're too hot, the rangers will make you. Their thermometers peg at 888 degrees F. and they see that often. That's a disk temp. of 888+ F. Old DOT 3 brake fluid may have a boiling point barely above 212F.

 

Ask the rangers about the clown in the Subaru wagon. 888+ degrees at the checkpoint followed by 45 minutes of cooling off. He rode his brakes down the rest of the mountain (no check point at the bottom) and all four brakes caught on fire less than a mile from the parkj entrance.

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If your driving style really heats up the brakes, your primary concern should be the wet boiling point of that brake fluid you've never replaced.

I guess thats what I was wondering is if there is much fading. Ive driven quite a bit through the appalachians and not had a problem, but roomate's Legend's rear brakes heat up pretty quick and thus his rotors are warped.

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