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Making Superpro LCA work for outback


derkahn

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Anyone have any numbers for the length difference of the subframe bolt (or whatever it's called) between the legacy and outback? where you bolt on the lower control arm. I have the superpro LCA bushings and need to make another bushing (probably out of UHMW polytheylene) to take up the space I can't get a caliper in there too easily, it looks to be about .65" but I would like to keep it, goldilocks ( not to loose, not too tight, just right)

and I don't have my old LCA's to measure them.

thanks,

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I just used a big honkin' fender washer to keep the LCA bushing from slipping up over the subframe bushing. 1-3/4" O.D. if I remember correctly and drilled out the center to 9/16" to fit over the bolt. Been meaning to post a walkthrough on that....
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thanks for the reply, I just made 3 different height bushings today to try and I am going to see which one works the best (hopefully this weekend) I will post pics etc. what happened when you undid the nut for the control arm, and slid control arm off? was it under pressure/tension? or did it just sort of slide of? was getting it back on the same deal?
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No tension really, had to jiggle things around a bit to get the bushing to slide down off the stud but no real problem. The biggest thing (beside pressing the old bushings out and the new ones in) was getting the ball joint loose from the control arm. Remove the pinch bolt completely, soak it in Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster for an hour or so, then use a piece of wood and a large hammer to drive the control arm down off the ball joint.
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ok first time putting up photos and or a walk through so......

here it goes

like I said before I got the superpro lca bushings (despite them not being recommended for obxt) got them installed and sure enough creak clunk etc. so I decided to fix it. I looked at photos of lgt's with them installed and the upper bushing was flush up against the underbody. not with mine see first photo

I tried to find polyurethane rod or tubing but couldn't so I bought some 2"diameter UHMW polyethylene rod machined it down to about 1.8"

then made a 1.25" hole in the middle ......new bushing.

wasn't sure about height so I made a few (.65 .85 and 1) I ended up using the .85" one.

 

it was really easy to do -undo the bolt on lca where bushing is (19mm) then the two on frame. loosen sway bar ends (you don't need to take them off) then back out the bolt that attaches the front of lca to body.

 

a little love with a plastic mallet and you can pull the control arm down enough to slip on the new bushing on tighten everything up and go.

IMG_0124.thumb.jpg.b17017267418460d6c4c7f0d9a3eaec7.jpg

IMG_0130.thumb.jpg.776a45d24f6458d8ed7863d8f14c1cfa.jpg

IMG_0135.thumb.jpg.ac8d1726be2c8803ffca3fba31ff195a.jpg

IMG_0137.thumb.jpg.aa28c74659cc49a47263e92eea7e073e.jpg

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  • 1 month later...
  • 4 months later...

 

 

So you just used these washers with the superpro bushings? Are you happy with the bushings? Do you see a noticable difference? One of mine is cracked, so I figure I might as well upgrade. How much would you want to send me a set of 4 washers?

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  • 6 months later...

I know this is an older thread but I just put the AVO offset bushings on my Outback XT today. Didnt have any trouble at all.

I was a bit concerned when I saw this thread before I started as I was hoping that I didnt run into needing a spacer like the pictures posted above.

 

On my outback there was already a spacer about the thickness of the white spacer shown in the pictures above so I didnt have any trouble with mine at all.

 

Getting the ball joint out was fun but I managed to get it out even with 91000 on my car. It was rusted in there pretty good. I just spread the crack apart in the nuckle after taking the bolt out. Sprayed some liquid wrench in there and let it soak for an hour or so and then disconnected the control arm from the frame and the cross member. I then swung the control arm around to the front, had a friend hold onto it there and hit it with a small 4 lb sledge hammer right in between the tierod and the brake line. About ten good whacks each side and it poped right out.

 

Getting alignment tomorrow so Ill see what she feels like with the new bushings and ball joints.

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oh I must have missed all these posts :) I think the AVO one has a raised section on the top and bottom doesn't it? I didn't have a problem with mine besides the noise it just seemed like the bushings should be sandwiched snug in there it probably would have been fine. that and I had access to a lathe and some good plastic to make bushings :)
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oh I must have missed all these posts :) I think the AVO one has a raised section on the top and bottom doesn't it? I didn't have a problem with mine besides the noise it just seemed like the bushings should be sandwiched snug in there it probably would have been fine. that and I had access to a lathe and some good plastic to make bushings :)

 

Actually it looks just like your superpro.

The AVO has a poly bushing with a metal insert in it that gets pressed into the control arm. It then has another poly bushing on top and bottom that you place over the metal insert which sticks out a bit on both the top and bottom.

 

Looks like from your pictures that they are the same except I had a factory spacer in the place your white spacer is.

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let us know how it is when you get the 4WAL done and what other suspension mods yo have greg..thanks.

 

Sure will. I actually will take some pictures of it because I put the offset bushings in. My car has megan coilovers as well, with it dropped about 1.5-2 inches in the font. After putting the offset bushing in it is VERY close to the front side of the front fender flares. It moves the wheel forward in the wheel well.

 

Ill get some pictures taken tomorrow and post them up.

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