Scruit Posted September 22, 2007 Share Posted September 22, 2007 Are there any circuits that are hot only when the engine is actually running? Not just Hot-In-Run? Haynes manual is no help... Failing that, any that are hot in Run and Start? Anybody else notice that newer haynes manuals have 'wiring diagrams' that are actually just 'electronic component connection diagrams'. If I want to see which fuses are hot in acc/run/start etc the digram doesn't show me that? 2005, BTW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KartRacerBoy Posted September 22, 2007 Share Posted September 22, 2007 I don't know but the best way to find out is to get a girlfriend you don't want to keep, pull the fuse in question, and have her stick her tongue in that spot to determine if it's hot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laz Posted September 22, 2007 Share Posted September 22, 2007 What is it that you are trying to do? What you are looking for is a power on ignition only, adn I think everything in the suby is like that. Try the ligther, or the radio. But what are you trying to hook up? X --- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Gitster Posted September 22, 2007 Share Posted September 22, 2007 Get a multimeter, set to voltage, read 12 volts. duh done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KartRacerBoy Posted September 22, 2007 Share Posted September 22, 2007 Use Gitster's ladyboy. I hear her/his/its tongue is long. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruit Posted September 22, 2007 Author Share Posted September 22, 2007 I'm installing a mobile DVR. It has a 10 second bootup time and I'd rather not havie it lose power during the boot cycle. If I connect to a hot-in-run circuit then it'll get power for a split-second as I turn the key and then lose power again while the starter is engaged. Ideally a hot-when-engine-running circuit would be perfect, but a hot-in-start-and-run circuit would do in a pinch, if I added a tank battery to help the DVR survive the crank. In my previous car I had to create a custom power controller to handle the voltage regulation and poweroff timing. That was a PITA. Yeah, i'm sure I could sit out there with a multimeter but I was hoping I could plan out a lot of the wiring on paper tonight before I got to pulling the car apart. Thanks anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KartRacerBoy Posted September 22, 2007 Share Posted September 22, 2007 Sorry I couldn't be more help, but I thought Gitster's ladyboy would "turn the trick" so to speak. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laz Posted September 22, 2007 Share Posted September 22, 2007 I'm installing a mobile DVR. It has a 10 second bootup time and I'd rather not havie it lose power during the boot cycle. If I connect to a hot-in-run circuit then it'll get power for a split-second as I turn the key and then lose power again while the starter is engaged. Ideally a hot-when-engine-running circuit would be perfect, but a hot-in-start-and-run circuit would do in a pinch, if I added a tank battery to help the DVR survive the crank. In my previous car I had to create a custom power controller to handle the voltage regulation and poweroff timing. That was a PITA. Yeah, i'm sure I could sit out there with a multimeter but I was hoping I could plan out a lot of the wiring on paper tonight before I got to pulling the car apart. Thanks anyway. Mobile DVR??? WTH like a DV Recorder? or a mobile PC? Or just a DVD player? Anyw post up some more info on this setup, I am curious now. For all your in car entertainment needs I am sure you have been to http://www.mp3car.com Anyway, for mobile computers, there is always a separate custom power supply that is installed for things like this. If all you want is a always hot power supply, then you will need to run a fused line to your battery. Maybe a fuse line to a power distributor block? I take it if you are doing this, then you are also upgrading your sound sytem? X --- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qikslvr Posted September 22, 2007 Share Posted September 22, 2007 I think what he is looking for is an accessory that WON'T be able to turn on with the key in the "ON" position but rather one that will only function after the vehicle has been started. It sounds like the device he is trying to install has an Operating System like Lunix that needs a few seconds to boot up and mount drives. If a link is used that goes live before the engine is turned; it will be interrupted when cranking the motor and cause the device to be power cycled "mid boot" and has the potential of creating errors. I can help narrow it down by listing items that I know will function with the in the "ON" position and the car NOT started. Can't use climate control, either lighter, radio, dome lights, hazards, movement/heat for seats, defroster, movement/heat for mirrors and dash lights. The only items that I can think of that won't work unless the car is running is the Daytime Running Lights, but I don't know if the relay that switches power is before or after the fuse. Now everyone add other items that work and don't work with the key in the "ON" position and items that only work post startup. I'm just trying to stir the pot a little and get things going so correct me where needed and add your own input. Let's kick this pig! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laz Posted September 22, 2007 Share Posted September 22, 2007 If it is a computer then this is what people use: http://store.mp3car.com/category_s/80.htm X --- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ridgeracer Posted September 22, 2007 Share Posted September 22, 2007 Best bet is a direct fused power line to the battery. Hopefully this device can tolerate the voltage sag when the car starts. Good luck.. "Gimme mines Balboa...Gimme mines".....Clubber Lang - Mr. T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laz Posted September 22, 2007 Share Posted September 22, 2007 Here are other power supplies that interact with PC devices, and also take care of the shutting down/starting up in a safe manner. If it is a compterized system, you do not want to be messing with it's power supply too much. http://store.mp3car.com/Automotive_12v_Power_Supplies_s/2.htm X --- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruit Posted September 23, 2007 Author Share Posted September 23, 2007 K, thanks for the responses. Firstly, it's a DVR - Digital Video Recorder. A standalone device that will record 4ch video and 1ch audio any time the car is running. I've run video cameras in my car in one form or another for nearly 5 years now. I do this becuase when I was younger I got in 4 accidents where the other driver lied to the police and I got blamed in cases where I shouldn't. My previous car had a residential DVR - meaning it had no built-in vibration/heat/crank/poweroff handling. It was fussy and occasionally got corrupted, but for 95% of the time it worked great and gave me a 3 week driving history. I created a custom circuit (etched PCB and everything) that was wired directly to the battery but also had 3 trigger listeners (3 + and 3 ground output) that would trigger the DVR to fire up and start recording. Events such as engine run, doors open, vibration sensor etc. After the trigger event stopped the power controller would wait 20 seconds then power off the cameras and shut off the DVR alarm inpiut (to make it stop recording and commit to disk) then 20 seconds later it shut off the DVR. To handle the voltage drop during crank I had a tank battery with a couple of diodes that kept the DVR input at 11.6v all the time it was running. The system worked fine and got me some good video. But the car was sold and I now have an 05 LGT Limited. It took me a couple of hours to remove the camera system from the maxima, and when I had it all in a cardboard box I realize just how complex it all was. :-/ So, the new DVR is a specific Mobile DVR (AverDigi EB1304-MOB) and it will sruvive the crank, has two layes of vibration damping, laptop hard drive etc. To turn it on you supply power, and to turn it off you remove power - no fancy timers to staged shutdown. So, I could use a hot-in-run-and-start circuit and just trust that the marketing claim of surviving the crank is valid... Otherwise I'll have to make a circuit that supplied a regulated 12v only when the main power is over 13v (alternator is running) Example videos from the old system: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u4F7z1263oc]YouTube - Why I have a rear-facing dashcam too...[/ame] [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ro0VJllTRyo]YouTube - Blue BMW[/ame] [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nSGl2PVNTQQ]YouTube - Where the Rubber meets the Rodent[/ame] [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nuU3CZMACAk]YouTube - Nasty crash scene[/ame] [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2ENWYdQO_to]YouTube - Geese[/ame] "A day at the Nissan Dealership" [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YlP9f-7Xdj4]YouTube - A Day at the Nissan Dealership[/ame] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bosco Posted September 23, 2007 Share Posted September 23, 2007 the term is "switched and unswitched" for the circuits. a simple circuit tester will work fine, the kind that looks like a clear screw driver with a lead and clamp coming out of it. bosco Stay Stock Stay Happy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meier motor sports Posted September 23, 2007 Share Posted September 23, 2007 i still like f1antics car pc. its laptop based. so it can run when ever he likes. the moniter is on with the key and the laptop runs primarily off the battery in it and charges from the car while running. no risk of draining the car battery Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruit Posted September 23, 2007 Author Share Posted September 23, 2007 Oh, just to add... I installed the DVR unit in the car today (no wiring yet) and I put it in the trunk up against the back of the rear seat. If you've ever removed the rear seat you'll see the 3/4" square tube that looks out of place and only exists to support the plastic rivet holding the trunk carpet to the back of the seat... I installed a second piece of square tube alongside it, reused existing holes at the top and bottom (bottom has a couple of unused threaded holes - perfect!) and then drilled/tapped the two square tubes. Then I put it all back together and was able to bolt the dvr to the square tubes from unside the trunk. All the carpeting is still in place so the install looks good. All my installation in this car is following a no-drill rule. I had the same rule on the maxima - and that helped retain the car's value after I removed everything and was able to leave no trace. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bosco Posted September 23, 2007 Share Posted September 23, 2007 Oh, just to add... I installed the DVR unit in the car today (no wiring yet) and I put it in the trunk up against the back of the rear seat. If you've ever removed the rear seat you'll see the 3/4" square tube that looks out of place and only exists to support the plastic rivet holding the trunk carpet to the back of the seat... I installed a second piece of square tube alongside it, reused existing holes at the top and bottom (bottom has a couple of unused threaded holes - perfect!) and then drilled/tapped the two square tubes. Then I put it all back together and was able to bolt the dvr to the square tubes from unside the trunk. All the carpeting is still in place so the install looks good. All my installation in this car is following a no-drill rule. I had the same rule on the maxima - and that helped retain the car's value after I removed everything and was able to leave no trace. welcome to the forum. btw thats nice but i don't think anyone who buys your car will look under the rear seat. bosco http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=67940 Stay Stock Stay Happy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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