underpowerd Posted June 13, 2007 Share Posted June 13, 2007 Search reveals some good info, but looking for a bit more. I'm going to be in there anyway for a FMIC install, so I think I'm going to do this, as well. Just a few silly questions for guys/gals who've done this, since I haven't had my head too deep in there lately: 1. I'm guessing 1 brass barbed splicer/couple clamps should do it -- is there enough length on the hoses to get away with this approach, or will I need to add some line? 2. Brass would be okay with sube coolant, right (wouldn't eat it or anything)? 3. What size splicer, if anyone remembers? sincere tia Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AWDxBOOST Posted June 13, 2007 Share Posted June 13, 2007 what? are you talking about bypassing the coolant that goes thru the throttle body? why bother? it really wont do anything to help, the coolant in there is just to keep the tb from freezing when it cold as crap out. the air passing thru the tb get negligibly heated by it anyways, so you really wont tell a difference if you really want to tho, then it sounds like you already got it down...cant help you on the splicer size, i have no idea Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitetiger Posted June 13, 2007 Share Posted June 13, 2007 Id leave the coolant lines to the TB alone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
underpowerd Posted June 13, 2007 Author Share Posted June 13, 2007 what? are you talking about bypassing the coolant that goes thru the throttle body? why bother? it really wont do anything to help, the coolant in there is just to keep the tb from freezing when it cold as crap out. the air passing thru the tb get negligibly heated by it anyways, so you really wont tell a difference if you really want to tho, then it sounds like you already got it down...cant help you on the splicer size, i have no idea it's kind of an interesting concept, which a lot of people have a differing opinion on. from what i've gathered, basically the ic is working to cool that charge as much as possible, then right before it gets to where it's about to actually be utilized, it has to run past 200 or so degrees of hot coolant. certainly, there's some negligible heating up of the tb, but i'd imagine force feeding it steady heat can't be helping. i'm really not worried about the freezing, as guys in much colder areas have posted they're not having that happen; so, if it's worth some power, why not? i figured i'd do it to keep those temps as low as possible to get the most benefit from the extra cooling of that charge that the fmic will be doing -- and if it's worth a pony or two to conserve the cooling the stock or a tmic provides, i'd guess that would be a bit more for a fmic, and therefore perhaps worthwhile. thanks a lot for the advisement, guys. all well-valued and taken into consideration Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AWDxBOOST Posted June 13, 2007 Share Posted June 13, 2007 ya but it only passes by it for a fraction of a second...it wont do squat do it and if you can actually measure that it added power on a dyno i will pay you exacty 100 pennies Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rc0032 Posted June 13, 2007 Share Posted June 13, 2007 Id leave the coolant lines to the TB alone. Pipe down you I like these type of threads it has to run past 200 or so degrees of hot coolant. How cold do you think it is coming out of the IC? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
underpowerd Posted June 13, 2007 Author Share Posted June 13, 2007 ya but it only passes by it for a fraction of a second...it wont do squat do it and if you can actually measure that it added power on a dyno i will pay you exacty 100 pennies excellent point -- but it's all going past there for that fraction . 100 pennies , yer on!!! might as well give me your pp now really, what i'd really like to see from this isn't huge power diff, but rather to extend or keep at least some of that fresh started up feeling, where you've got that cooler charge, to full-time. thanks awd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
underpowerd Posted June 13, 2007 Author Share Posted June 13, 2007 Pipe down you I like these type of threads How cold do you think it is coming out of the IC? why do you think i started it? i guess that depends how cold it is outside? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rc0032 Posted June 13, 2007 Share Posted June 13, 2007 A little but it will never get to ambient Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
underpowerd Posted June 13, 2007 Author Share Posted June 13, 2007 nuts, back to the drawing board -- who's got meth for sale Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AWDxBOOST Posted June 13, 2007 Share Posted June 13, 2007 co2 sprayer is working quite well for me to keep intake temps down im seeing an average drop of about 4-5* celcius with the co2 sprayed....thats def a noticable diff when its hot out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vet Posted June 13, 2007 Share Posted June 13, 2007 If it didn't heat up the charge somewhat why would Subaru bother to employ it? I've always disconnected this on all my cars with no ill effects noticed. Of course I'm sure I couldn't notice any benefits either. If I can get a tiny edge why not give it a try? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ama0787 Posted July 21, 2007 Share Posted July 21, 2007 On my supra(fmic) my temps are usually around ambient temp when cruising and moderate acceleration it gets about 20 degress above. I have never really check hard repeated runs mainly because I don't do them usually one or two pulls is enough to satisfy me in that car. To nad we can or I cant make intake air temp measurements with the subby Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ama0787 Posted July 21, 2007 Share Posted July 21, 2007 vet It doesn't heat up the charge it heats up the throttle body so the plate can open and close not to bring intake air temps up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
underpowerd Posted July 21, 2007 Author Share Posted July 21, 2007 since this revived: i didn't end up doing the bypass (yet ), but i can say, in light of realizing what an amazing cooling job the fmic is doing, i just might for the hell of it. simply resting a hand on either side of the ic, even after extended running, is like night and day temp-wise; even in this crap-july weather, the cold side feels very close to ambient. and though the coldside pipes in the bay are, as expected, a little warmer to the touch than the ic coldside itself, as one makes the way up to the tb, it's obvious that it is by far the hottest peice along the post ic path (whether heated negligibly or by line, i guess that's the question to find out for sure). like i said, the preservation of the extra cooling gained from the fmic was really what made me consider this; i really wouldn't bother if heatsoak/smaller core were still looming factors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted July 21, 2007 Share Posted July 21, 2007 the metal of the throttle body that gets heated by the coolent is maybe, waht, an inch wide at most...if that It's smooth metal. The heat transfer calculations are based on differential in temperature and velocity, but let's do a quick guesstimate calculation Ambient = 90 Throttle body temp = 190 Air temp coming from IC at cruise = 98 at wot low rev = 105 at high rev = 130 degrees air picks up from throttle body at cruise = 3-5 at wot low rev = 3-4 at wot high rev = maybe 1 degree if a 5 degree ma pickup is enough to mess with coolent lines....then you're too power crazy My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ama0787 Posted April 10, 2008 Share Posted April 10, 2008 RC... FMIC get close to ambient. I have a supra with stand alone ecu which measures intake air temp after it leaves the intercooler and most of the time I am around 5 degrees from ambient on hot days and in the winter I can actually get colder than ambient. mweiner How are you getting the outlet temp from our IC's? Our intake air temp air sensor is pre-turbo right? For anyone who is interested sp engineering sells a before and after turbo temp sensors Anthony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted April 10, 2008 Share Posted April 10, 2008 FMIC get close to ambient. I have a supra with stand alone ecu which measures intake air temp after it leaves the intercooler and most of the time I am around 5 degrees from ambient on hot days and in the winter I can actually get colder than ambient. Not possible. That means you have an IC with a greater than 100% efficency.... which you don't. Your temp sensors aren't calibrated right and/or your ECU sucks. mweiner How are you getting the outlet temp from our IC's? Our intake air temp air sensor is pre-turbo right? For anyone who is interested sp engineering sells a before and after turbo temp sensors Anthony edumacated guestimates and some real world knowladge. My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ama0787 Posted September 18, 2009 Share Posted September 18, 2009 old post but it came up in a email search I did so I figured I would answer the old questions asked..... they are actually in my post I got the information from my ECU loggin I have a aem ems in the supra and my tempreture is measured just before the TB after the core of the intercooler. And unless we are in hot summer heat my temps are never far from ambient and below it when cruiseing at interstate speeds. Also I do still allow coolant to run through my TB likle mentioned above so the temp could change by a small amount just after me AIT temp sensor reads the air. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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