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bypass limiter?


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New Legacy owner. Planing to take it on the track in the next week or so just for the hell of it. I know with my last vehicle that I could disable the speed limiter (Dodge). any such tricks with the Legacy without having to use superchips or equivalent?
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You will need an ecutek flash for your 07 to modify your limiters. Cobb AP is not available for '07.

 

There is a speed limiter and a rev limiter.

 

If you have a GT wagon, then you have an automatic in which case, the rev limiter is not an issue with a stock rom. There's no power up top. The only reason people modify their rev limiter is to account for shifting without hitting the rev limiter which would then not recover until boost drops to 10 psi. Long story, but bottom line is stock autos don't need to have the rev limiter changed.

 

Speed limiter is 138 mph. You plan on going faster? Better make sure you have good tires first.

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to be honest I dont think that I can get it to top out in a 1/4. I just was hoping to be surprised and :)

 

I dont want to bypass the Rev just the speed. I dont want to top out before the light and have to guess at what it COULD do.

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to be honest I dont think that I can get it to top out in a 1/4. I just was hoping to be surprised and :)

 

I dont want to bypass the Rev just the speed. I dont want to top out before the light and have to guess at what it COULD do.

If you top out your stock LGT mph wise at a 1/4 mile track, I'll send you $500. :p

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funny thing on my rev limiter, h-6 auto, is that in park it bounces off at 5000

rpm repeatly if you keep your foot on the gas pedal.

 

if you have the car rolling in neutral there is no limit

My Mazda Tribute does the same thing (although, I think it's 4K RPM's on my car).

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funny thing on my rev limiter, h-6 auto, is that in park it bounces off at 5000

rpm repeatly if you keep your foot on the gas pedal.

 

if you have the car rolling in neutral there is no limit

 

I've seen that before as well in other automatic transmission cars. I think it might have been the Elantra I had when I was in Portland. But I DO remember seeing that.

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Speed limiter is 138 mph.

 

I have searched and searched for this information, and have been unable to find it. I thought about making a thread asking the question but knew I'd be bombarded with commands to search.

 

Thank you.

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I think that it is actually 136MPH (I tested it at the track) which is the speed rating of the re92 tires the car came with. Mine will get up to 140 if you hit the barrier hard enough. As for the rev limit/ fuel shut off; it is 6500 in a MT.

Also, I think this info is in the sales brochure or in the Car and Driver web review.

Let's kick this pig!
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I think that it is actually 136MPH (I tested it at the track) which is the speed rating of the re92 tires the car came with. Mine will get up to 140 if you hit the barrier hard enough. As for the rev limit/ fuel shut off; it is 6500 in a MT.

Also, I think this info is in the sales brochure or in the Car and Driver web review.

 

 

 

06 LGT 5SP Auto, been to 150MPH no mods, if you trust the speedometer

 

Stock RE92 are HR rated, not that I had them on the car, I showed up at the dealer with Replacements.

 

As an added note the brakes where useless at that speed, and I would never ever never venture onto a track with them. They suck for street use also.

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don't mean to hijack the thread, but here is my question..

 

what does it need to re-map the throttle? the stock map is a bit conservative.

 

late,

k

 

:D

 

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v34/bmorrisj/stockthrottle.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v34/bmorrisj/econthrottle.jpg

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The "Map" refers to the chart bmorrisj kindly posted. Its the chart the computer uses to determine the Air fuel mixture at a given RMP and throttle position. With a program designed to read and change your computers settings you can customize the map to suit any modifications you have done to the car. When you hear people "chipping" a car, it commonly refers to a piggyback application that changes some of these values to release HP that is tuned out by design by manufactures. The reason they do this is to ensure engine longevity and or to ensure the car falls below regulations for power (for example the Nissan Skyline when it was released in the US and Canada was de-tuned to meet federal standards).

 

You need to know EXACTLY what you are doing with regards to these "Maps" when tuning. Many a car has detonated (not the entire car, the engine) due to improper Fuel/Air ratios that users have changed. Its not a guess and test type of thing. But if you are serious about getting every last ounce out of your car (or truck) now days the FIRST place you should spend you money is in a interface program and hardware. It will cost you in the range of a grand or more to be setup (minus the laptop). Most manufactures of these packages will offer a performance package to upload to the car computer that they have tested (at least you hope). But when you start adding Superchargers or Turbo Chargers with a intercooler or Methanol injection you need to change the settings or your car will either not perform or it will die a very violent death... The last one is fun to see but not to experience. Plus it results in the drag strip to shut down while they collect what is left of our engine and mop up the puddle you left behind :) enjoy

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Keep in mind that bmorrisj's chart does not affect power output.

 

This is the translation table for the DBW (drive by wire). It determines the throttle solenoid % duty cycle as a function of pedal position and rpm.

 

By rescaling it, you can get a more "linear" power feel since power is not linear in relation to throttle opening.

 

In both cases, if you put your floor all the way to the floor, you will get 100% wide open throttle. I have tried both.

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As an added note the brakes where useless at that speed, and I would never ever never venture onto a track with them. They suck for street use also.

 

I will agree on this note. When you hit the brakes at any speed over 100MPH at the track the stock brakes just vibe, shake and stink; I don't know if they even actually slow you down or if its the tranny.

At very least change the pads to something better than stock and get some slotted/cross drilled rotors or start saving up for the $2000 front big brake kit.

Let's kick this pig!
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