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FYI Legacy acoustics, sq/soundstage info


lucas569

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Not bad......not bad at all. :)

 

Did you router the underside of the floor panel for the plexi insert?

 

Did you consider "flushing" the rear-deck grill?

 

Very clean for DIY....... props ;) .

 

yes a router was used, flushing would have been a little more work but i thought it looked pretty good so on it went....

 

i did alot of the work myself but my friend tom came and added the finishing touches...

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Pioneer Premier TS-C720PRS. I had to use a 1" spacer, with the dynamat maybe 1.25" total. i took out some of the edges out behind the door panel to make sure it wouldnt hit the spkrs. (10 min of work)

 

imo these sound amazing, review after review you hear nothing but good things about them.

 

i looked at many spkrs and went with these, some people whore out certain spkrs on here and im not going to knock em but for $240 (ebay) these is the deal of a lifetime.

 

i may end up buying 2-3 pairs to have for back up, maybe even do a set of 5.25" in the kicks... but thats my future plans.

 

 

check out this review:

 

 

http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pio/pe/images/portal/cit_3424/383243804TS-C720PRS_camag_eprint.pdf

 

 

not only that but on the diy audio forums member after member of very picky audio gurus love these.

 

My installer is trying to do this now with ~1.25" spacing (3/4" spacer, 1/4" of caulk, 1/4 deadener) and the speaker is still hitting the bracket of the window. Did you have any issues with the woofer hitting the window? Did you have to trim any sheet metal?

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Same as yours. 720 PRS.

 

Did you take the black plastic rear part of the basket off? What is hitting is the tab of window that stops the window at the top. See the shinny metal part in the attached

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take some (2 or 3) washers and shim the window slightly, its a 12mm nut to the right of the speaker, you have to position the speaker just right or the window will hit that spot.

 

u can even take a die grinder and grind some of the basket off. its just a cover for the magnet...

 

LOL we posted at the same time, glad u got it...

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  • 1 year later...

i cant recall exactly but from poineers site its 2-5/8" (67mm)

 

they dont just drop in, you have to trim some of the plastic tabs off the door panel so it doesnt hit the speaker cone or hinder movement.

 

then space it out about 1.25" AND remove or grind some of the basket (dont worry its just a cover for the magnet) so it doesnt hit the back of the window stop.

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Wow....i still can't believe that the doors are that shallow.

 

I'm planning on throwing a pair of Peerless Exclusive mids or some ID OEM's in the doors once I get my LGT. I haven't really decided which ones I'm going to get but I have plenty of time for that.

 

I've been looking at tweeters too and considering places for them. Unless I do some A pillar work I'm probably going to put them in the stock location and try to aim them at me. I'll be running an active system with time alignment so I'll be able to make some serious adjustments. I've been looking at the Seas Neo Aluminum tweeters. Their 30 degree off axis response looks good and I've heard great things about them.

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ItalynStylion, in researching the ID speakers I found some stuff that you may find useful if you're going to do active crossovers. the XS65s DO NOT have a low pass filter on the woofer. I was speaking with one of the engineers there, so I found out some useful details such as that. The tweeter has a high pass filter, but I didn't ask where it was. I was more concerned if the speaker was worth $480 compared to the Z's I have. (I'm still not sure on that).

 

Oh yeah, another tidbit from ID's engineer, they are best used coax. (the XS65 i mean)

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