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Custom DC to AC inverter Install


CSTMIZR

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I've had this inverter for like 5 years and used it maybe twice (blending margaritas at tailgate parties). It was tough b/c to power anything with any kind of real current draw it needed to be hooked straight to the battery (can't drive with the hood open). So I decided to disassemble it and custom mount the plugs, LEDs, and switch in the center console of my '01 Legacy GT. Here are some pictures. Oh, and I promise to steam clean the carpets ASAP:lol:

 

(I actually upgraded (sorry no pics of that) the main unit immediately after the install for more juice (using the same switch and LEDs). Tapping onto the circuit board was actually alot easier on the new unit.)

 

Project time: 6-8 hrs

Cost: ~$120 (new inverter, wires, AGC fuse holder 75amp, etc)

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Here are the rest of the pics, along with one of a custom rear deck vent (for bass transfer from the trunk) I did the day before the inverter install. It's a flush-mounted ADS 6.5" midbass grill (sorry no pics of the process but I can explain it if anyone's interested).

 

Oh yeah, sorry for the crappy photography.

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Very cool idea. So the inverter is mounted under the rear windows ledge. And the plugs are in the armrest.

How is the inverter hooked to the car, for power? Direct from battery, or some cig lighter deal?

Great idea for a laptop

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Thanks.

 

To clarify a little (since I was a bit lazy on the post):

 

The inverter is mounted under the front passanger seat, hugging the center console and the forward seat mount frame (see the last pic on the first post taken with back to windshield).

 

I ran 8 gauge cable direct to the battery with a 75amp AGC fuse assembly and grounded it (8 gauge too) directly to the frame under the seat (shorter the ground the better) after stripping a small spot down to the bare metal.

 

I used a CAT-5 data cable to remote out the LEDs for power and fault notification (ultra low current, polarity matters here).

 

Standard 16 gauge wire to remote the switch (polarity doesn't matter) and a high grade ultra insulated 12 gauge for the AC outlets.

 

So, the remote out length of the cables is about 18-24" from right under the seat to the back of the console.

 

There is also a "floating" outlet (extra one on the new inverter) so I can rig it to a cooler in the trunk or whatever else I might want down the road.

 

It's great too b/c I have it setup to run on either ignition (w/ the key on) or direct (all the time) so I can leave my laptop or cell phone in the car and come back 30min later and have a full charge. :cool:

 

 

(The rear deck pic is a random one from a different project (read top of second post) and has nothing to do with the inverter.)

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Note: These inverters are nasty little creatures and need to be handled with some TLC. So be extra careful when attempting to manipulate one (800 watts will give you a nice "how's your father").

 

If anyone is interested I could give a detailed breakdown of the remoting process of the new inverter (current model you could get at Best Buy or wherever) and my bro has an '05, we could maybe find a nice spot in that interior for the same type of install.

 

Cheers :)

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Good idea, I have often wondered why automakers don't include a 120v outlet in cars.

 

The reasoning is that DC voltage is storable and cyclical, where as AC must be generated from a source immediatly before current is drawn. Where you could reasonalby draw 75amps DC that would equate to about 2amps AC or 800 watts.

 

Simply put they are worried about people trying to draw too much current and frying out or constantly faulting the system (not to mention that batteries and alternators can only handle so much draw). So a typical hair dryer at ~1100 watts (not that anyone's planning on drying their hair behind the wheel, good for woman passanger's though) would put a tremendous draw on the battery and the inverter would be the size of a shoe box or decsent sized amplifier.

 

Basically, with inverter technology as it stands, it's not a viable accessory for mass implementation (other than the low current one's like in the Vibe) and the warranty woes and blown fuses from misuse are more than they want to deal with.

 

So, it is up to us brave modders to once again do it for ourselves :)

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I did the same about a year ago, but in the back of my wagon. On the driver side there is a wiring connector coming from the front of the car for the trailer hitch (which I don't have ;) There are two hots on this - one is separate for the hitch only and always live (when the car is on or off - be careful you don't drain the battery!) and the other is on the same circuit as the cig lighter. I have it going to a 3 way switch (on-constant, off, on-switched). This goes to two 12v sockets on the one side (there are spaces for them already there. It's an option in the outback, but not the legacy!) then to the inverter which is mounted by the spare, then to two covered outlets for 110 AC. It's awesome! :)
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I did the same about a year ago, but in the back of my wagon. On the driver side there is a wiring connector coming from the front of the car for the trailer hitch (which I don't have ;) There are two hots on this - one is separate for the hitch only and always live (when the car is on or off - be careful you don't drain the battery!) and the other is on the same circuit as the cig lighter. I have it going to a 3 way switch (on-constant, off, on-switched). This goes to two 12v sockets on the one side (there are spaces for them already there. It's an option in the outback, but not the legacy!) then to the inverter which is mounted by the spare, then to two covered outlets for 110 AC. It's awesome! :)

 

Nice! It is most definately awesome, I love mine:wub: . Got pics? What's your continuous AC wattage and the fuse value on that cig circuit? Any problems with overdraw?

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that is a great idea! :)

 

Thanks, I should be doing an '05 walkthrough soon (way more detailed) if my brother ('05 LGT 5mt) gets off his lazy arse and picks up an inverter. Stay tuned (get it..... "tuned"). :icon_chee

 

(Yeah, I know, my speaking privileges should be revoked for that joke)

 

 

 

-------------------------

Glutton for the mod.

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What's your continuous AC wattage and the fuse value on that cig circuit? Any problems with overdraw?

 

Well I don't have pics, but it seems I'll have to get some up :) I can't this moment since it's still at the dealer waiting on a new turbo :(

 

As for the converter - it's a 140w continuous. Not too big. Haven't had any problems, but I try not to do any big draw on it. Will have it live to charge my phone or earpiece when I'm out of the car with it off every once in a while...

 

The cig fuse is 15A, the trailer hitch is 20A with nothing else on the fuse. It's the always on

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Did you know that using AC phone chargers is inefficent and slow. DC phone chargers work faster and use less overall power.

 

So you use about 4-5 times more power charging your phone off the AC adapter in your car than if you used a DC cig adapter one.

 

 

They don't make inverters standard equipment because most AC devices that you can think of using can be acquired in a DC version. Most of the devices that don't come in DC versions use so much juice the inverter would have to be the size of a 12" sub box (1.5 cu Ft) and would drain your battery in 20 minutes.

(Updated 8/22/17)

2005 Outback FMT

Running on Electrons

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Having an inverter is soo0o0o useful, most items don't come with DC adaptors (cell phone, laptop, even rechargable 12V hand drills don't :iam: ), maybe as a $20 to $50+ option. Who's going to buy a laptop that comes with a 12V adaptor and has a 110V adaptor as an add-on, or a 12V blender just so you can have frozen drinks at the tailgate a few times a year??? I mean sure it's available but that doesn't make it attractive.

 

Besides, you never know where you might be, or with who, that might need it for what. It's definately a nice ace-card in the clutch, it's a one time cost ($40 and up) and it expands what you can do and where you can do it (I made an espresso on the way to a meeting :cool: ).

 

An inverter the volume of a shoebox can power a reciprocating saw (the big-daddy one..........slicing through 2x4s).

 

 

:icon_chee ~~~~~~~~>Inverters save the lives of small children<~~~~~~~~:icon_chee

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I actually just checked on current Inverter technology and apparently there was a breakthrough ( in electronics, not inverters) a year or two ago that I missed. They've dropped in price by a 1/3 and in size by half. So they're not as far out as I make them sound anymore.

 

You can get a 1kW continuous ouput inverter for under $100. That's 8 amps or about half as powerful as your average household socket. So it won't power your window AC unit you were hoping to mount in the back window cause your stock AC sucks, but it will power alot of things.

 

If I was gonna permanently mount one in my car, I wouldn't go less than 1kW.

(Updated 8/22/17)

2005 Outback FMT

Running on Electrons

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So it won't power your window AC unit you were hoping to mount in the back window cause your stock AC sucks, but it will power alot of things.

 

^^^:lol::lol::lol:^^^

 

(1kW is right on target for truely flexible usage)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ask and you shall recieve........

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  • 1 month later...

^^^Well, my LGT is a generation before yours, so you would run yours in a different place obviously. There are plenty of threads on that though, search for "firewall" or "amplifier install".

 

As for the detailed instructions, I've been waiting until my brother ('05 LGT) is ready to do his b/c that's the generation most people on this site have. I want them to be as relevant as possible to serve the community better. ;)

 

Hopefully, we should get around to it in the next month or two (lots of other projects keep pushing it back).

 

When I do I'll post a link to it on this thread. :)

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