sandwood Posted November 1, 2004 Share Posted November 1, 2004 Hey all. Can anyone help me out with this? I need to tap a wire for the power to my radar detector. I've already run the line down to the fuse box, which may or may not have been a waste of time. I have the V1, so I need to tap a wire for the spade connector to get power, and then find a place to ground it. Has anyone done this? On my previous car, I had a cheap fix - simply rammed the spade for power in with a fuse for juice. The sube has different fuses and it seems that solution would be impossible. any specific input would be most welcomed. getting out of the legacy game Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c_hunter Posted November 1, 2004 Share Posted November 1, 2004 Where is the detector? You can probably just tap into the wiring in the overhead console. Plenty of options there. There are already topics on this with more details. You can also buy a device that will tap into mini-fuses like we have. Usually called "add a circuit" or something like that. Most autoparts stores have them. Craig Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandwood Posted November 1, 2004 Author Share Posted November 1, 2004 hmm, "add a circuit" sounds good. the detector is currently mounted on the windshield below the rear view mirror. still experimenting with that. I probably shd have wired it to the overhead console, but I'd already run the line down the a-pillar and whatnot, so I'd prefer to just power it up from the fusebox now. getting out of the legacy game Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rc0032 Posted November 1, 2004 Share Posted November 1, 2004 [font=Times New Roman][size=3]I just ordered the V1 and was planning on using the power in the overhead light. I think the fuse would be a nicer install incase I ever have problems I can easily take it out and still look stock (and be covered by the warranty). [/size][/font] [size=3][font=Times New Roman] [/font][/size] [font=Times New Roman][size=3]Here is the tread on taping the overhead light. Let us know how hard it is to wire the fuse. [/size][/font] [size=3][font=Times New Roman] [/font][/size] [b][url="http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4335&highlight=radar"][u][font=Times New Roman][size=3][color=#800080]http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4335&highlight=radar[/color][/size][/font][/u][/url][/b] [b][size=3][font=Times New Roman] [/font][/size][/b] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trent Bates Posted November 1, 2004 Share Posted November 1, 2004 [quote name='sandwood'] I have the V1, so I need to tap a wire for the spade connector to get power, and then find a place to ground it. Has anyone done this? [/QUOTE] [url]http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1840[/url] I don't remember the specific wire I connected mine to. It was one of the wires coming out of the back of the fuse block near the bottom. Get a $2-$3 test light. It's indespensible for stuff like this! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandwood Posted November 1, 2004 Author Share Posted November 1, 2004 [quote name='Trent Bates'][url]http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1840[/url] I don't remember the specific wire I connected mine to. It was one of the wires coming out of the back of the fuse block near the bottom. Get a $2-$3 test light. It's indespensible for stuff like this![/QUOTE] true enough - though the add-a-circuit thing is an easier solution. just went to local auto parts places and none of them had them for our mini-fuses. ARGH. The thing to get is Littelfuse's "add a circuit". Just gotta find where one is locally. Being electrically ignorant (including how to use a test light) does not help matters. getting out of the legacy game Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandwood Posted November 1, 2004 Author Share Posted November 1, 2004 ok, only place I could find the min blade fuse doubler - made by Wirthco - is JC Whitney. I'll post and let everyone know if it works the way I hope it will. getting out of the legacy game Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c_hunter Posted November 1, 2004 Share Posted November 1, 2004 I didn't think they existed for the mini-fuses, but stumbled upon one at Auto-Zone a few weeks ago. I got one this weekend for some illumination mods, and it worked nice -- just plugged it into the fuse slot for illumination and I got another fused lead that is switched with the interior/instrument lights. Trent's idea is good too. If you can find a suitable fuse slot (one that has the characteristics you want, ie, switched with ACC or something) then see if you can find that fuses output wire at the back of the panel. The top blade of the fuse is the hot input, the bottom is the fused output. SO look for the bottom wire. Craig Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trent Bates Posted November 1, 2004 Share Posted November 1, 2004 [quote name='sandwood']Being electrically ignorant (including how to use a test light) does not help matters.[/QUOTE] DC Voltage is the electrical potential between two points. A test light is simply a lightbulb inside a probe handle. One end gets attached to a ground (an exposed screw - I use the dash frame most often) and the other end is used to touch the wire contacts. If battery voltage in the form of a - (0v) and + (12v) is present, it lights up. Almost any bolt that's holding anything to the car's frame, body, or connected brackets will be ground. There's got to be 50-100 potential "grounds" behind the dash alone. I used one that was very close to the fuse block. 12V DC voltage is one of the simplest systems to understand. Get a test light and play with it a little. If nothing else, you will have a greater understanding in the future! It will even help you to use a fuse piggyback device. :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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