Another V1 Installed Thread

[ERLoft]

I had been planning on posting this up once it was done, then Bwana came along and posted his up. I thought about posting over there, but didn't want to jack his thread.

 

So, here's my install:

 

The V1 main unit is mounted above and to the right of the mirror. It's out of the way of both the mirror and the passenger's visor. However, it doesn't like to stick to the little black dots on the windshield, so a wee bit of exterior mounting tape took care of the problem.

 

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a89/ERLoft/IMG_1634.jpg

 

The remote display is located on the instrument cluster lip. The material they make our dashes out of is pretty damn slippery, as my industrial velcro wouldn't stick. So, exterior mounting tape with a wrap of Gorilla Tape does the job here.

 

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a89/ERLoft/IMG_1630.jpg

 

The remote audio controller is located between transmission tunnel and the seat, just below the parking brake. Again, this one is mounted with the exterior mounting tape. I can set my hand right on the e-brake and use my middle or index finger to mute the audio.

 

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a89/ERLoft/IMG_1633.jpg

 

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a89/ERLoft/IMG_1632.jpg

 

I didn't take a picture of the direct wire power adapter (DWPA), but I'll try to remember to do so later today. It's mounted above the fuse box door. There's a nice little ledge up there that I put some industrial velcro on, and more velcro on the DWPA. The plug that I undid for the Daytime Running Lights was a perfect source for power, since it was no longer connected.

 

It wasn't a fun install. First, I broke the bottom clip on the panel that is at the driver's end of the dash. For whatever reason, it's different than the passenger's side. Oh well, I don't think it'll cost much to replace. Second, after getting everything in, guess what? One of the damn cables was defective. I tried to power up and the V1 main unit was just scrambled. So, I had to open everything back up and replace the faulty cable, which was the one that went from the DWPA to the main unit. Third, I didn't read the instructions on the audio control unit. Hell, I didn't even realize they sent them. Ooops. Turns out even though the unit has a "Power In" and "Power Out", how things hook up depends on what sequence you hook them up. Sooo...

 

If you wire it up like I did:

 

DWPA main out to the V1

DWPA acc out to the audio unit.

Audio unit to the remote display.

 

Then you need to turn on both the audio unit and the main unit independently. Bleh.

 

If you want the remote audio adapter to turn everything on and off, you've got to:

 

DWPA main out to the audio unit.

DWPA acc out to the remote display.

Audio unit to the V1.

 

Which, of course means a longer cable run, as you've got to go from wherever you're mounting the audio unit to the V1. Which is a bit too long for the 8' V1 cords. So, a regular RJ11 phone cord can be used. Too bad they all seem to come in either 7' (too short) or 25' (way too long). Oh well... I don't want to have to turn it off in both locations, so tonight after work I'll pull the cable and reroute it the new way...

 

For complete wiring instructions, go here: http://www.valentine1.com/moreinfo/pdf/remote_audio_adapter_pg24-25.pdf

 

On another note, this may have been posted by others, but if it hasn't...

 

For those of us with the navigation systems, or those considering them, they set off the V1's laser alarm. In certain situations, that is. Yesterday morning, I had everything working and went to my car. Since the time change, it's pretty damn dark when I leave @ 6:30 or so. Well, I start up my car and blammo! My V1 is going nuts with a laser signal. I'm thinking, WTF? I turn it off and go to work. Once I'm in the lot, I try messing with it. If I take it down away from the mirror it works fine. Hmm, is it the mirror? I turn off the auto dimming and compass. No such luck. What could it be? Well, I called V1 and spoke with a tech. He asked me if I had a nav system, and when I say yes, tells me that the LCD screens flicker so fast that the reflection of them off the windshield looks like police laser to the V1. So, when it's dark outside, I get a laser reading. Yuk. Obviously, this isn't going to work. So what to do? I really like the mounting location, as it's out of the way, has a clear view front and mostly rear (except a laser on an overpass, but if a cop has me like that, I'm screwed regardless) and is almost invisible from outside the car. So, today I stopped by an arts & crafts store & picked up some black matte board. I've taped a bit on the bottom of the V1 so that it extends forward almost to the windshield. Tomorrow morning, we'll find out if it does the trick!

 

Here's a pic from outside the car to show how invisible it really is. You have to be at about the eye level of an 8 year old to catch the bottom outline of the V1. Otherwise, it doesn't exist. And yes, that's a garter on my rear view mirror. My wife's garter, from our wedding, so don't even go there!

 

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a89/ERLoft/IMG_1639.jpg

 

Not as fancy as some installs on the V1, but I'm pretty happy with it. Or will be once I rewire it correctly and make sure that I'm not getting nav screen false laser alarms.

[bakasama]

 

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a89/ERLoft/IMG_1639.jpg

 

Hawt! Making me regret not springing for the Diamond Grey spec.B. Is that lip OEM?

[Scotty]

You can use clear packing tape to go over the dots. I have mine mounted so the unit sits right next to the plastic wire cover for the mirror. Then my mirror is pushed all the way up to help support it in case the adhesive on the tape starts melting in hot weather.

 

Yes the driver side dash panel uses a different clip on the bottom that breaks off. It's about $40 to replace, I think that's how much I paid when I broke mine.

 

The key to making any tape stick to plastic is to first clean the area with alcohol to remove any traces of oil. I use 3M mounting tape which generally starts to fail after about 3 years of use.

[ERLoft]

bakasma - Thank you! That's the STi V-Limited front lip. It's for the JDM bumper, so it's not quite a direct bolt up, but on a 1-10 scale, I'd say it's a 4 or 5 to modify and install.

 

Scotty - Good call on the packing tape. I hadn't thought of that obviously. If you broke yours too, did you figure out how to remove it without breaking it the second time around?

[gfxdave99]

Can you shave the dots with a razor blade?

[Scotty]

Why would you want to do that? Now you will have two visible holes that can be seen from the outside.

 

As for removing the side panel, if you have nimble hands, you can squeeze the clip through the fuse opening.

[sirsimon]

Nice install and nice write-up ER. I am planning on getting a V1 by Spring. I feel like I am in the copy ERloft mode. First the short-throw and now a V1. But truth be told, both have been on my radar for some time (pun intended).

 

Off-topic - did you swap the springs on your car?

[ERLoft]

sirsimon - ahh yes, imitation is the sincerest form of flattery

 

I sure haven't regretted my V1. It's not cheap, but it's paid for itself numerous times over.

 

Yes, I have the STi Pink Springs on my car...

[ERLoft]

Had a request on where I tapped for power for this install, so here's the pix:

 

First, you need to remove the left end cover for the dash.

 

There's a little clip at the bottom of this panel that will break if you just pull it off. To be honest, I'm not sure how it can be removed without breaking it, as I've broken the only one I had during the install. However, they're not too expensive, at $28 from allsubaru.com.

 

Here's the clip as you can see it once the panel has been removed (the little yellow thing at the bottom):

 

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a89/ERLoft/IMG_1688.jpg

 

To pop it out without breaking it, you can access it through the fusebox opening (the little yellow thing again):

 

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a89/ERLoft/IMG_1689.jpg

 

The top two attachment points on the panel can just be popped out without any problems.

 

Once it's off, you can use industrial velcro to secure the Direct Wire Power Adapter above the fusebox door, and there's a very convenient bolt that's a perfect ground location:

 

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a89/ERLoft/IMG_1661.jpg

 

Route the power to under the dash and around to the fusebox. At the bottom left, there's a green wire with a white or yellow stripe that's switched for the second key position only. Makes for a perfect tap point.

 

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a89/ERLoft/IMG_1682.jpg

 

(pay no attention to the ugly mug laying on the front seat floor!)

[Bwana]

I didnt know they even made the remote audio controller. Gonna go check that out now. Nice install!

 

edit: Hrm, $50...not bad. Might have to pick one up and redo my install.

[Scotty]

The remote audio controller really isn't needed. It's mainly for motorcycle users.

 

I positioned the remote display on the left side so that I can easily hit the mute button with my left hand.

 

Another way to wire it up is to splice off the power for the mirror, then tuck all the wiring into the headliner.

[Bwana]

The remote audio controller really isn't needed. It's mainly for motorcycle users.

 

I positioned the remote display on the left side so that I can easily hit the mute button with my left hand.

 

Another way to wire it up is to splice off the power for the mirror, then tuck all the wiring into the headliner.

 

Well, I put my remote display in the ashtray, which I am beginning to not like so much. So if I had the remote mute ability, I could mount the remote display near the gauge cluster or something. Kinda hard to reach through the steering wheel to mute it.

[Scotty]

Just mount it in the left corner of the dash. That way you don't have to reach through the wheel.

[BDII]

What could it be? Well, I called V1 and spoke with a tech. He asked me if I had a nav system, and when I say yes, tells me that the LCD screens flicker so fast that the reflection of them off the windshield looks like police laser to the V1. So, when it's dark outside, I get a laser reading. Yuk

 

aaaaaaaaaaaaaaahhhh man...... Thanks for the heads up. I just ordered mine...

[dark_templer_102]

Wait, aren't you supposed mount the V1 low?

[Scotty]

No, they are supposed to be mounted as high as possible. This allows the detector to see through the window of the car in front of you. It also gets a clearer view out the back of your own car.

[BDII]

hmmmm the wagons slope in the rear....

 

The rear really doesnt matter. No police radar can gauge your speed from behind.

[ATB]

Where did you get this from? I've seen plenty of people pulled over from a cop using radar from behind. Your speed = radar speed + police car speed

 

hmmmm the wagons slope in the rear....

 

The rear really doesnt matter. No police radar can gauge your speed from behind.

[ERLoft]

True. I've only heard that they can't get you from a side reading. It has to be front or rear. That's per the people @ Valentine 1.

[Scotty]

Speed radars work on the Doppler principle. The only time it doesn't work is when you are traveling 90 degrees to the direction the radar is pointed. It works just as effectively from the front or the back. Most of the highway patrol around here have radars mounted in front and behind.

[azca]

how did you connect the power to the V1?

[TSiWRX]

The rear really doesnt matter. No police radar can gauge your speed from behind.

 

^ Actually, it matters a lot, bruddah.

 

Rear-on enforcement is a big issue with both laser and radar, and with the latter, there's both pacing (of course, the detector won't warn you of this), as well as "same lane radar."

 

You can *easily* get nailed from the rear.