lo_rezz Posted August 4, 2006 Share Posted August 4, 2006 I'm installing a 4-channel amp this weekend, and would like some thoughts on the install I'm thinking of. I am going to put in a Cleansweep at some time in the future, but can't afford it right now. Currently in the car - '06 Outback Lmtd. - OEM headunit 6 disc changer - Fronts: Infinity Kappa coax - Rears: MB Quart coax - Factory Subwoofer under drivers seat The amp I'm putting in has line level inputs, so I believe I can skip the LOC's. I have the Scosche forward and reverse wiring harnesses (harni?) to make this a little easier behind the OEM head unit. With the factory sub installed, I believe I need to do the following: leave the sub harness connected to the head unit, and install my fwd/reverse harness after that, allowing me to split off to the amp and back to the speakers. Also, I believe I need to hook the remote turn on lead to the red wire (ign+) of the Scosche harness. If any of my assumptions are incorret, please feel free to correct me. Any help would be appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boulderguy Posted August 4, 2006 Share Posted August 4, 2006 Right off the bat I'd say put the Quarts up front! Totally personal preference tho. Yes, ideally put the forward/reverse harnesses downstream of the sub harness, tho it probably won't make a big difference either way. Don't know what the red lead on the Scosche is, I can tell you that you DON'T want to hook it to the power antenna lead tho - it's only active with the radio, not the CD player. You'll need to tap into your ACC power in that harness - that's the one that's on with ignition only. That means your amp will always be on with the car, even with stereo off. If you can handle an extra $25, check out the PAC trunk-LOC (try Ebay or a local shop) - you can convert to low-level RCA's right there & it provides a signal-sensing remote lead for your amp, so it'll only be on when the stereo is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lo_rezz Posted August 4, 2006 Author Share Posted August 4, 2006 Thanks for the input, Boulder. I was thinking about flipping the speakers around as well, but will wait until I get the amp in and hear it. Is PAC a brand? Not familiar with them, but I'll go a-looking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lo_rezz Posted August 8, 2006 Author Share Posted August 8, 2006 Ok, maybe this is a stupid question, but I have searched the forums and can't figure out how to get the main lead thru the firewall. I have pulled the stereo, found the grommit near the top of the engine compartment, and am wondering what else I need to yank to get the access to the wire. I'm a little shy about poking anything around in there - don't want to short a wire or cut one. But I am game for pulling interior pieces off as needed, just not sure of which ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boulderguy Posted August 9, 2006 Share Posted August 9, 2006 Auto or manual transmission on your OB? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lo_rezz Posted August 9, 2006 Author Share Posted August 9, 2006 Manual transmission Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boulderguy Posted August 9, 2006 Share Posted August 9, 2006 You gotta go thru a wheel well as I understand it. Should be pretty easy - http://legacygt.com/forums/interior-audio/22319-amp-power-cable-routing.html?highlight=firewall+cable Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hifiandmtb Posted August 9, 2006 Share Posted August 9, 2006 Are you sure the Scosche forward & reverse connectors are fully pinned? I bought the forward & reverse harness from here: Reverse Radio Wiring Harness for Subaru WRX and he clearly indicates that this is the only harness that is fully compatible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lo_rezz Posted August 9, 2006 Author Share Posted August 9, 2006 No, they aren't fully pinned. They are missing the illumination wire, just as he points out. I simply snipped both of those wires and made a direct connection. I found out about the harness offered on his site after buying mine and making them unreturnable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hifiandmtb Posted August 10, 2006 Share Posted August 10, 2006 That's cool - just wanted to give you a heads up...I'd hate for you to have to disassemble the dash again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lo_rezz Posted August 11, 2006 Author Share Posted August 11, 2006 Thanks, I appreciate that. I finally got the main wire thru the firewall. I decided to cut an X in the main wire harness grommit ( and very very carefully, I might add ) and fished a "grabber" tool that was 24" long thru there. I had to pull of the panel just below the glovebox, which was fairly easy, and then taped the wire to the grabber from inside the car, pulling the wire thru the grommit and into the engine compartment. I've run the line under the door trim, and will finish installing tomorrow. I've already had the stereo out one time anyway, and realised that I didn't have enough time that day, so I kind of it all scoped out. It should take me too long to finish up, and the amp I'm using fits perfectly under the passenger seat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hifiandmtb Posted August 11, 2006 Share Posted August 11, 2006 Sounds like you've got it all sussed - I used this grommet to get my 8-gauge wire into the cabin (msmith's idea): http://legacygt.com/forums/interior-audio/10031-my-lgt-wagon-install.html Here are some more install shots: Fuse attached to LHS strut (using LHD brake equipment pre-tapped holes): http://photos.all.id.au/ALBUMS/SJ_Subwoofer-Installation/IMG_6431.sized.jpg Amp located on board snug-fit in the spare wheel: http://photos.all.id.au/ALBUMS/SJ_Subwoofer-Installation/IMG_6427.sized.jpg Let me know if you have any questions! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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