milehighxr Posted May 19 Share Posted May 19 She who must be obeyed has volunteered me to fix the oil leaks on my oldest sons 06 LGT. One of the areas we see oil coming from is the oil feed and oil return for the turbo. He did the oil pan last summer, and that may be leaking again too or maybe oil separator cover. Should the turbo oil feed/return lines just be replaced? Or can we we put new washers(need a source) on the ends and call it a day? Also, if we do decide that the rear main is leaking, is it easier to pull motor to replace, or pull trans? Being AWD I am assuming easier to pull motor. Is there any way to see on these engines if the rear main is leaking without pulling engine or trans? I work on 1986 Merkur, its RWD turbo I-4, boxers are new to me, so its' trial by fire time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted May 20 Share Posted May 20 Depends on how rusty the car is if you should replace the feed line or not. the oil return is a rubber hose and that should be replaced along with the gasket for the fitting on the turbo itself. removing engine vs transmission also depends on how rusty the car is. in a shop environment we would remove the transmission, it's actually much less work than you think. but if all you have to work with is a garage and an engine hoist, removing the engine will likely be less of a headache. If you are truly wanting to fix all the oil leaks, it would be best to get the engine on a stand to better inspect, those turbos are shoe horned into the bay and it's difficult to see everything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
relative4 Posted May 20 Share Posted May 20 A very common leak that looks like turbo/RMS leaks is the crankcase breather hose under the bypass hose at the rear center of the block. If it's leaking (and it almost certainly is, if it hasn't been replaced in the past 8 years), you'll see oil pooling on both sides of it and running down by the turbo. Recommend addressing that, then see what's left. Part number 99071AC220, labeled 1AC22 in this diagram: https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_2006_Legacy-25L-TURBO-5AT-GT-LIMITEDOBKXT-SEDAN/_54102_6030705/WATER-PIPE-1/B13-036-03.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted May 21 Share Posted May 21 Subies leak oil like a VW bug. Invest in metal trash can lids or take them.out to pasture and be like Kristi Noem. Donate your running car to me so I can track it till it dies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
relative4 Posted May 22 Share Posted May 22 Missed the original question about engine vs tranny. I personally remove the tranny while on jackstands. Remove the axles, catback, downpipe, driveshaft (just disconnect front), intercooler, dogbone, starter. Disconnect the shifter linkage, get a tranny jack strapped on, support the engine with a bottle jack, remove the tranny mount, unbolt the bell housing, and you're done. Move the tranny back and lower it, and you have all the space in the world. No need to wrestle it out from under the car. Debatable whether the engine or tranny is more work. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
milehighxr Posted June 2 Author Share Posted June 2 On 5/19/2024 at 9:35 PM, relative4 said: A very common leak that looks like turbo/RMS leaks is the crankcase breather hose under the bypass hose at the rear center of the block. If it's leaking (and it almost certainly is, if it hasn't been replaced in the past 8 years), you'll see oil pooling on both sides of it and running down by the turbo. Recommend addressing that, then see what's left. Part number 99071AC220, labeled 1AC22 in this diagram: https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_2006_Legacy-25L-TURBO-5AT-GT-LIMITEDOBKXT-SEDAN/_54102_6030705/WATER-PIPE-1/B13-036-03.html Can I use any old hose there, or is the OEM the best solution? I won't get started until saturday 6/8 or maybe sunday, as kid doesn't leave for the summer till then. I was thinking if I can use any old hose as long as it doesn't kink it would be fine. If the OEM part is the best way and not super expensive I'll get that ordered before I start working on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
milehighxr Posted June 2 Author Share Posted June 2 On 5/21/2024 at 9:42 PM, relative4 said: Missed the original question about engine vs tranny. I personally remove the tranny while on jackstands. Remove the axles, catback, downpipe, driveshaft (just disconnect front), intercooler, dogbone, starter. Disconnect the shifter linkage, get a tranny jack strapped on, support the engine with a bottle jack, remove the tranny mount, unbolt the bell housing, and you're done. Move the tranny back and lower it, and you have all the space in the world. No need to wrestle it out from under the car. Debatable whether the engine or tranny is more work. I'm used to my RWD XR, I can get the trans down in like 1hr, well usedtacould I got a bad back now, so maybe more like 3. I guess the Subies with AWD will be pretty even amount of work to pull either trans or engine. I'm hoping we don't need a rear main on this, but we'll see. I've got 8 weeks to get this all done, and if I get it done sooner, another car to diagnose O2 issue, and then maybe back to the XR project... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
relative4 Posted June 2 Share Posted June 2 1 hour ago, milehighxr said: Can I use any old hose there, or is the OEM the best solution? I won't get started until saturday 6/8 or maybe sunday, as kid doesn't leave for the summer till then. I was thinking if I can use any old hose as long as it doesn't kink it would be fine. If the OEM part is the best way and not super expensive I'll get that ordered before I start working on it. I don't know if an anyold hose would kink. OEM s/b like $10 from your local stealership. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infosecdad Posted June 2 Share Posted June 2 1 hour ago, milehighxr said: Can I use any old hose there, or is the OEM the best solution? I won't get started until saturday 6/8 or maybe sunday, as kid doesn't leave for the summer till then. I was thinking if I can use any old hose as long as it doesn't kink it would be fine. If the OEM part is the best way and not super expensive I'll get that ordered before I start working on it. If you don't use a specifically oil resistant hose, then it's go soft and start leaking within months. It's such a pain to replace, I would only use OEM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
milehighxr Posted June 9 Author Share Posted June 9 OEM hose, $10 no big deal, we'll get that. This is the PCV hose yes? Service manual says "Do not remove if the PCV hose, diagnostics connector and PCV valve are not damaged." I don't really get that. I assume to get to this breather hose I'll have to remove the intercooler, and maybe part of upper intake? I can definitely see oil on the top rear of the engine, so I'm sure this is one source of leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
relative4 Posted June 9 Share Posted June 9 Not the PCV, another crankcase breather. Remove the intercooler, the bypass hose (the hard part), and disconnect a few other doodads, and you'll have decent access. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
milehighxr Posted June 9 Author Share Posted June 9 Got it. So I'll need coolant, this hose, and an intake gasket set? How close to this area is the turbo oil feed and turbo oil return? I may just replace those anyhow if they're near by. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
relative4 Posted June 9 Share Posted June 9 No coolant, no intake removal, nowhere near the turbo lines. You will need hose clamps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
milehighxr Posted June 9 Author Share Posted June 9 So no gasket on ic piping? Bypass isn't for coolant? Service manual leaves alot to be desired on how this all comes apart for breather hose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
relative4 Posted June 10 Share Posted June 10 The turbo-TMIC gasket is very durable high-temp silicone, I've never seen one die. The bypass hose is part of the intake system. Connects the bypass valve to the turbo inlet. Unless you have a blowoff valve. It's all pretty straightforward disassembly, just get in there and you'll see. The service manual has its uses; this isn't one of them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
milehighxr Posted Tuesday at 10:22 PM Author Share Posted Tuesday at 10:22 PM On 6/2/2024 at 4:50 PM, relative4 said: I don't know if an anyold hose would kink. OEM s/b like $10 from your local stealership. Called dealer this morning, quote was $70.00. So who are the reputable aftermarket vendors for these cars? Preferably someone in Denver metro area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
relative4 Posted Tuesday at 10:45 PM Share Posted Tuesday at 10:45 PM 20 minutes ago, milehighxr said: Called dealer this morning, quote was $70.00. So who are the reputable aftermarket vendors for these cars? Preferably someone in Denver metro area. Huh? The part is $10, and labor would be way more than $70, so I don't understand what you're saying. If you're saying the part is $70, there was clearly a miscommunication on that phone call. Just order it from your local dealership using the link below, and go pick it up. https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2006_Legacy-25L-TURBO-5AT-GT-LIMITEDOBKXT-SEDAN/Hose-Vacuum/49322374/99071AC220.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
milehighxr Posted Tuesday at 10:47 PM Author Share Posted Tuesday at 10:47 PM Just now, relative4 said: Huh? The part is $10, and labor would be way more than $70, so I don't understand what you're saying. If you're saying the part is $70, there was clearly a miscommunication on that phone call. Just order it from your local dealership using the link below, and go pick it up. https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2006_Legacy-25L-TURBO-5AT-GT-LIMITEDOBKXT-SEDAN/Hose-Vacuum/49322374/99071AC220.html I'll try that. They wanted the vin and I do not have that one memorized. They said the hose and 2 clamps was $70. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
relative4 Posted Tuesday at 11:10 PM Share Posted Tuesday at 11:10 PM 21 minutes ago, milehighxr said: They said the hose and 2 clamps was $70. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now