2013 Legacy 3.6R Coolant Pipe

[SchwarzeEwigkt]

So, today I was replacing a failing VVT solenoid — the exhaust one on the driver’s side — and noticed something wet dripping on my head as I maneuvered to pull the solenoid out of the head. It turns out that a coolant pipe nearby had been rusting and my having had looked at it caused it to spring a leak. I count myself lucky that it decided to spring a leak while I was already under it rather than when I was on the highway 200mi from home.

Clearly, I need to replace it. Thing is, I’m having trouble identifying it. It starts at a nipple right by the thermostat housing and I think it runs up around the back of the head and connects to one end or the other of the heater core circuit. I think it might be 14165AA091, “return pipe,” but the diagrams I’ve been finding suck. Any chance you fine folks have access to better diagrams that can help identify it?

While I’m at it, this crossover pipe that runs across the bottom of the block from the oil cooler is looking similarly gross. I haven’t been able to identify that at all.

Help?

[SchwarzeEwigkt]

I’ve done some more digging. I found a post in another forum where somebody described maybe having this job done. They mentioned that return hose, along with a “cooler pipe” and the hose clamps.

Here’s what was listed:

* Cooler Pipe — 21328AA160

* Return Pipe — 14165AA091

* Clamp — 805918010

The return pipe lists as a part for my ‘13 Legacy 3.6R Limited 5EAT. The cooler pipe lists as compatible at some parts websites and not at others. It seems to come up as a similar timeframe Tribeca part, which would be the same powertrain, so I’d expect it to be the same. The clamps seem consistent, though I need to actually go count them. The post said six, and I think there’s four on the cooler pipe and three on the return pipe.

Can anybody confirm these part numbers? I’m trying to avoid going to my local dealer because the parts manager is a toolbag.

[rhino6303]

I believe those are the correct part numbers for the pipes. I did find a part number for the clamps near the waterpump pipe to be different than the one you listed (805922090). The prices for the pipes are quite obnoxious though.

[SchwarzeEwigkt]

33 minutes ago, rhino6303 said:

I believe those are the correct part numbers for the pipes. I did find a part number for the clamps near the waterpump pipe to be different than the one you listed (805922090). The prices for the pipes are quite obnoxious though.

Yeah, I was kind of wondering about that. I felt like the clamps were different on the different pipes when I was down there looking at it. I’ll have to climb down and look again.

You’re definitely right about the prices for the pipes. I’m particularly confused as to why an 18” long, straight pipe with two flanges on it would cost significantly more than a much longer pipe with several complex bends (and also two flanges!).

Edited May 8 by SchwarzeEwigkt
Left something out.

[DugsSin]

Guess I better check these on my 2011. Looks like one of those " While I'm at it" jobs that won't end.   New coolant comes to mind. 

Please keep us updated on what worked and what you should have had on hand.   

Good Luck with the repairs. 

[SchwarzeEwigkt]

I just ordered the parts. I was able to confirm them at a couple different websites, including the one for my local dealer (which has better diagrams!)

• 14165AA091 - Return Pipe - x1
• 805922090 - By-Pass Hose Clamp - 4x (extras)
• 21328AA160 - Cooler Pipe - 1x
• 805918010 - Upper Hose Clamp - 4x (extras)

I'm expecting to have extra clamps laying around. I think I actually only need a couple of each, as the ones on the bottom of the engine are pretty crusty, but the ones on the top look okay. I'll source coolant locally. I'm due for a flush anyway.

This looks like kind of a pain in the butt job, but not awful. I think I'll have to take off the metal cover over the driver's side head, but not the whole intake manifold. It looks like the return pipe attaches to the block or to the driver's side head. I couldn't see from the engine bay. I think once I get the pipe detached from its mounting point and on either end, I'll be able to feed it in from the bottom.

The parts should show up in a couple weeks (ugh). I'll try to remember to take pictures and notes so I can report back to everybody on how it goes. Particularly you, DugsSin...

[SchwarzeEwigkt]

Update: The parts came today. The pipes look right. I'm still flabbergasted that the big, complex return pipe assembly costs half what the little cooler pipe does.

They appear to have messed up the clamps, though; I've got four in individual bags labeled 805922090, three clamps loose in the box that look like 090's, one smaller one I assume is an 010, and an open bag that says "805918010 Qty 5". I think they sent me seven bypass hose clamps and one clamp for the cooler pipe instead of four of each. Also, the return pipe comes as an assembly, with a short rubber elbow...and two clamps. So I have nine 090's. Looks like I'm going to have to hit up the local stealership for more small clamps in addition to the coolant I was going to get anyway.

I plan to take pictures and document what I did, hopefully this weekend.

[SchwarzeEwigkt]

I took a look at things just now. It's looking like I'm going to have to take off the driver's side engine mount arm. The return pipe runs between it and the block, but has a 90º bend right over the top of it. I'm not sure how I'd get it out with that in there.

It looks like I can just take the nut off the engine mount and lift the engine 3/4" to clear it, then remove the two arm bolts and pull it off. Where is it safe to lift the engine from, though? Would it be safe to lift it from the oil pan? I saw a video of somebody lifting some EJ a bit by putting a jack and some blocks below the driver exhaust manifold, lifting that side of the engine upward. An engine hoist would probably be best, but I don't have one. Just a couple hydraulic jacks and an ancient mechanical bottle jack (essentially a large jackscrew in a tube).