What suspension to replace in rear end?

[Ifixtheinternet]

I've just turned over 100k on the 2013 Legacy. Just did spark plugs, and It's obviously time for new struts/shocks.

I've decided to refresh the entire suspension while I'm at it, since all the bushings are on borrowed time.

So far I've ordered:

KYB struts / shocks / Mounts / bellows

Mevotech Supreme front control arms

I also plan on ordering new inner/outer tie rods (unless this is deemed unnecessary), rear control arms (or bushings), and rear trailing arms (or bushings) and front/rear sway bar end links.

The front control arms weren't much more than all the bushings/ball joints separately, and I dont have a press, so that seemed easier. 

However I'm seeing that the rear control arms / trailing arms are much more difficult to remove, so I can't decide what's the best option here. Is that true? Should I plan on torching out bushings, ordering something to install without a press?

The car is stock except for upgraded RSB.

Don't have any particular expectations, but firmer / more durable parts would be great.

And, did I miss anything that I should consider replacing?

[kattz]

I know it's crazy for me to say, being new here and all, but this seems like a lot to replace at 100K miles.  Unless you're carrying concrete in the trunk and constantly driving it like you stole it, you shouldn't be seeing the wear you're describing based on my personal experience (Forester, Tribeca, OBS).

[Ifixtheinternet]

1 minute ago, kattz said:

I know it's crazy for me to say, being new here and all, but this seems like a lot to replace at 100K miles.  Unless you're carrying concrete in the trunk and constantly driving it like you stole it, you shouldn't be seeing the wear you're describing based on my personal experience (Forester, Tribeca, OBS)

Aside from the noticeably bumpier ride from the worn struts, and maybe a little bit of freeway wonder, I'm not noticing anything in particular. It just seems like the consensus is all these bushings last about 100k, so I thought to just get it all done at once while I have it apart, do one alignment and be done with it. Will give me confidence I will be good for another 100k.

looking at all the nightmares of people dealing with bushings and presses, I'm thinking just buying new parts for the rear seems much easier. 

I can get both control arms, trailing arms and lateral links with bushings for about $400 for the rear.

[kattz]

It's a good investment, I agree.  Tie rod ends are likely OK on street roads that are well maintained.  If the roads are crap, perhaps they may be bad.  They are not expensive.

[Scubaboo]

On 9/11/2023 at 1:54 AM, Ifixtheinternet said:

Aside from the noticeably bumpier ride from the worn struts, and maybe a little bit of freeway wonder, I'm not noticing anything in particular. It just seems like the consensus is all these bushings last about 100k, so I thought to just get it all done at once while I have it apart, do one alignment and be done with it. Will give me confidence I will be good for another 100k.

looking at all the nightmares of people dealing with bushings and presses, I'm thinking just buying new parts for the rear seems much easier. 

I can get both control arms, trailing arms and lateral links with bushings for about $400 for the rear.

A bad alignment can cause those symptoms in an otherwise healthy suspension IME.

You have the entire front suspension covered with the arm replacement and the mounts.  Just add the ball joints if not included with the arms, and check the hub bearings too.

Rears, an option is to just do the shocks and mounts at the back if that's all thats broken.

Then get a good alignment.

[DrD123]

I'd replace what's broken - I had one of the forward bushings die on my car, so replaced both control arms with OEM (so both bushings and the tie rod) - I am not a big fan of Mevotech control arms (the ball joints, in particular) based on a number of quick failures of Mevotech supremes on our old Odyssey.

For the tie rods, I'd only replace if they are broken/worn out (torn boots, etc)

If you have a vehicle that lives in the salt belt, be prepared for a struggle.  There's an astro pneumatics tool for the front ball joints which helps - the pinch bolt is usually what gets folks in the rust belt, though.

[johnsora2425]

My front control arms were a pain. The ball joint bolt snapped and then unsuccessfully removed the bolt and then failed to properly drill it out. The big rear bolt on the control arm was seized in the bearing. The nut came off, but I could not get it out of the bearing. Ended up having cut that big-ass hardened bolt. Then had to get new knuckles (speed sensor bolt also snapped) and that rear bolt. Just pulled out the old arm and knuckle in one piece. After spending a whole weekend on one side I threw the parts for the other side in the truck and dropped it off at my mechanic to deal with the other side. They ended up having to do the same. But with new struts, control arms and sway bar bushings (front and rear), and end links it drives like a new car. I also recommend changing the 16mm OEM rear sway bar for the 20mm OEM STI sway bar (~$85). A big improvement for cheap!!

Edited January 25 by johnsora2425