turboman38 Posted December 18, 2005 Share Posted December 18, 2005 Was out on the highway yesterday and hit my brakes hard at around 75 mph. Brake pedal was pulsating like crazy. Do the rotors warp easily in these cars? Anybody else have this problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malvic Posted December 18, 2005 Share Posted December 18, 2005 Um, that's your ABS kicking in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rallispec Posted December 18, 2005 Share Posted December 18, 2005 assuming it wasnt the ABS - (which is a very distinctive feel -- you shouldnt confuse it with warped rotors) -- then you're car is probably pretty new, right? many members here (myself included) had brakes that wobbled under hard braking for the first 2 or 3 thousand miles. (Not the ABS kicking in)... some people here have gotten the dealership to resurface them under warranty with mixed results. Mine wobbling went away after I hit 3k on the odometer.. haven't noticed it in over 6-7 months now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tytek Posted December 18, 2005 Share Posted December 18, 2005 +1 = whatever they said if the rotors were 'warped' you would feel the vibration on the steering wheel much more than on the brake pedal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turboman38 Posted December 18, 2005 Author Share Posted December 18, 2005 Ok, I guess I'll wait until I have some more miles on it. Have about 1200 on it now. Thanks for the replies. Merry Christmas! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hondas123 Posted December 18, 2005 Share Posted December 18, 2005 Could be the EBD. (Electronic Brake Distributioin) The manual makes mention of an electronic pulsating feel while braking at highway speeds. - The Mortgage Man Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
melayout Posted December 18, 2005 Share Posted December 18, 2005 Search for "brake shake" Highspeed braking is abysmal with the stock pads. I keed I keeed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laz Posted December 18, 2005 Share Posted December 18, 2005 Go get your rotors cut at the dealership under warranty. Mine did it as well since new, and only cutting them cured it. the dealerships are aware of this that they do not even look at you twice when you tell them you have this type of vibration. they just cut them. X --- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emorphien Posted December 18, 2005 Share Posted December 18, 2005 Search for "brake shake" Highspeed braking is abysmal with the stock pads. Something on this car is less than ideal? Oh no! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StringFellow Posted December 18, 2005 Share Posted December 18, 2005 Go get your rotors cut at the dealership under warranty. Mine did it as well since new, and only cutting them cured it. the dealerships are aware of this that they do not even look at you twice when you tell them you have this type of vibration. they just cut them. X I would request new rotors instead of having them resurfaced. For one, thinner rotors heat up faster and have less of an ability to distribute the heat. This means they also have a tendency to warp easier. Then, when you do need new brake pads in the future and possibly a rotor resurface, the rotors might be to the point where they are too thin to resurface and you have to get them replaced. Think about if you had a defective tire and the dealer installed a used one that had only 50% of the tread left. You will have to get them replaced at some point, but why pay that cost sooner than you should! The labor cost to resurface and replace the rotors are about the same. Installing new ones might have less of a labor cost because the rotors don't have to be machined which takes time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carman493 Posted December 18, 2005 Share Posted December 18, 2005 our brakes suck lol, thats the deal...lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laz Posted December 18, 2005 Share Posted December 18, 2005 Yes I know you can have that fight with the Subaru delaership, but they will always just resurface it. As long as the rotor width is within allowable spec. I am not worried. If they are going to warp, they'll warp within a warranty period, and at that point I will fight to have them replaced. The amount of material they cut is not that much, and I rather have my car back in a day, and not days if they do not have the parts available. I have been with the cut rotors for over 1000 miles already and (knock on wood) no problems so far. X I would request new rotors instead of having them resurfaced. For one, thinner rotors heat up faster and have less of an ability to distribute the heat. This means they also have a tendency to warp easier. Then, when you do need new brake pads in the future and possibly a rotor resurface, the rotors might be to the point where they are too thin to resurface and you have to get them replaced. Think about if you had a defective tire and the dealer installed a used one that had only 50% of the tread left. You will have to get them replaced at some point, but why pay that cost sooner than you should! The labor cost to resurface and replace the rotors are about the same. Installing new ones might have less of a labor cost because the rotors don't have to be machined which takes time. --- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legacy2005 Posted December 18, 2005 Share Posted December 18, 2005 I would request new rotors instead of having them resurfaced. For one, thinner rotors heat up faster and have less of an ability to distribute the heat. This means they also have a tendency to warp easier. Then, when you do need new brake pads in the future and possibly a rotor resurface, the rotors might be to the point where they are too thin to resurface and you have to get them replaced. Think about if you had a defective tire and the dealer installed a used one that had only 50% of the tread left. You will have to get them replaced at some point, but why pay that cost sooner than you should! The labor cost to resurface and replace the rotors are about the same. Installing new ones might have less of a labor cost because the rotors don't have to be machined which takes time. good idea but wont happen. dealerships/car companys will say that the tech has to turn the rotors first. the only way you will get new rotors under warranty is if they have been turned several times (because of a pulsation complaint) and are to thin to re-turn. Work hard. Play even harder. My Garage Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legacy2005 Posted December 18, 2005 Share Posted December 18, 2005 Yes I know you can have that fight with the Subaru delaership, but they will always just resurface it. As long as the rotor width is within allowable spec. I am not worried. If they are going to warp, they'll warp within a warranty period, and at that point I will fight to have them replaced. The amount of material they cut is not that much, and I rather have my car back in a day, and not days if they do not have the parts available. I have been with the cut rotors for over 1000 miles already and (knock on wood) no problems so far. X every dealership does this when the car is under warranty since its cheaper to do. Work hard. Play even harder. My Garage Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emorphien Posted December 18, 2005 Share Posted December 18, 2005 our brakes suck lol, thats the deal...lol Yeah, the brakes and tires both could use improvements, but I have less trouble with the brakes than I do the tires. No vibrations out of mine, and I don't do a lot of hard braking since I don't drive like a madman. Some have said that the bad break impression is part brakes and part the stock tires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meier motor sports Posted December 18, 2005 Share Posted December 18, 2005 i didnt real all the replys. i lost faith in actual help after the first reply. but im sure its jsut warped rotors. if when braking u let go of the steering wheel and it vibrates left and right then its your front rotors. if u feal the pulsation more in the pedal and the seat of your pants. its the rear. 98% sure i would say its the front. it should be covered under warenty with in a certian milage and time frame. ford is 18 month 18000 miles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBlueGT Posted December 18, 2005 Share Posted December 18, 2005 They are not warped, you have stock crappy pads that have gotten too hot and interfaced with the rotor surface leaving deposits. Get them turned (lightly) and put in better pads ASAP. Problem solved. With the stock pads this will happen again. Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
melayout Posted December 18, 2005 Share Posted December 18, 2005 They are not warped, you have stock crappy pads that have gotten too hot and interfaced with the rotor surface leaving deposits. Get them turned (lightly) and put in better pads ASAP. Problem solved. With the stock pads this will happen again. +1, aftermarket pads FTW I keed I keeed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBlueGT Posted December 18, 2005 Share Posted December 18, 2005 My rotors did that too, but I took them off and spent about 5-10 mins per rotor cleaning them with a Dremel equppied with an emery (rough cloth-like material) wheel. I then put on my new pads (Bobcats) and they were as good as new. Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBlueGT Posted December 18, 2005 Share Posted December 18, 2005 Read this. http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elej Posted December 19, 2005 Share Posted December 19, 2005 Brake pedal was pulsating like crazy that sounds Like ABS working the way its supposed to. rotor/pad problem you would feel in the steering wheel. if all you experienced was pedal vibration and the car still tracked straight, brakes are fine. Have you had an ABS car before or felt it work? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xenonk Posted December 19, 2005 Share Posted December 19, 2005 if it's the brake pedal pulsating, it's the ABS.. brake shudder/warping is when you can feel from the steering wheel shake back and forth. Brakes don't suck.. it's the tires that are running out of grip.. when you get better brake parts, it still limits to how much the tires can handle.. after all, you can lock up the wheels and slide, but that doesnt mean the brakes suck, the brakes did their job: they stop the wheels from rotating. Just do threshold braking to make the car stop. The ABS is there to help you from locking up the wheels and make the car spin out. If you don't want ABS, take out the ABS fuse. Keefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StringFellow Posted December 19, 2005 Share Posted December 19, 2005 Just do threshold braking to make the car stop. The ABS is there to help you from locking up the wheels and make the car spin out. If you don't want ABS, take out the ABS fuse. Knowingly disabling a safety device...not a good idea. Be vary careful, especially if you get discounts on your insurance for such safety devices. If you get in an accident and it is determined you disabled a safety device, you might in for some visits to court or even some heafty bills! -S Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xenonk Posted December 19, 2005 Share Posted December 19, 2005 Knowingly disabling a safety device...not a good idea. Be vary careful, especially if you get discounts on your insurance for such safety devices. If you get in an accident and it is determined you disabled a safety device, you might in for some visits to court or even some heafty bills! -S Knowing more about car control and knowing that ABS, TCS, and AYC, ACS can hinder driving techniques and skill is a choice that I can take. If you think about it, think of all the cars in the past that never had ABS? Was it a good idea to produce a car that didnt have ABS, or better yet, bought a car knowingly that never did have ABS? Can you file a lawsuit on a car that was "inadequate" for road use when the car specifically pass safety standards? Believe it or not, even in race rules, if you are running a production car with airbags, they should be disabled and taken out of the car. Since the race car has a rollcage and all the better goodies of safety parts (as it works as a SYSTEM, so you can't or shouldn't skimp out on the components of that system), some things can hinder the safety aspect of the system. Granted that it is racing, but the idea is that some components are not needed if you to gain more control of the car. What if the ABS unit malfunction? Or better yet, determined that the tires you had on the car contributed to the lack of the ABS unit not working properly because not everyone buy OEM tires to replace our stock ones. ABS is just this: Anti-Lock Braking System. It's to prevent your tires from locking up. It doesn't mean it's going to slow you down faster. This "SYSTEM" is to help the driver maintain control WHILE slowing down. The way physics works on this one is that you want to have maximum traction that you can steer around so the ABS unit will try to calculated the neccessary braking power needed to keep the tires at full grip. There's more to this notion.. google "Traction Circle". Keefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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