FYI: Speed Bleeder Parts #'s and Sizes

[morrias]

After reading a few posts, I was a little confused on what the heck speed bleeders fit the '05 GT. Here's the basic information:

 

The front bleeders have a 10mm head, and a 10mm x 1.0mm thread pattern.

The rear bleeds have an 8mm head, and a 7mm x 1.0mm thread pattern.

 

The part #'s I bought of the Russell speed bleeders were 639570 for the rear and 639560 for the front. These are newer part #'s that some of the others I've seen. Russell seems to have changed the packaging and part #'s from previous years. I bought mine locally in Vancouver, WA at Baxter's Auto parts for $11.99/pr.

 

They work extremely well, and make bleeding a very quick process for one person.

 

Hope this helps people out!

[LittleBlueGT]

Thanks, I may get some today!

[forestir]

+1. Thanks for posting, that's useful reference info.

[OhBe1]

One word of caution - they can make the job go so quickly, you forget to check the level in the MC.... until you hear the sucking sound.

[aldo ixnay]

Word of Caution #2 - be VERY cautious tightening them... my friend snapped one on my '02 WRX and he was being careful. Had to use a tap to get it out.

[rporter]

Don't even think about 'em.

 

They are NOT a true "one-man" operation, except on a motorcycle. You should be flushng your system, and you can't tell where you are at if you are in pumping the pedal. And, pumping the pedal risks damage to the m/c.

 

Besides the installation issues that others have mentioned, they WILL begin to leak over time.

 

IMHO, they are ony worhtwhile for a motorcycle, but I would still never buy them. Go to about ay car lst/forum that's been around for awhile, and no one with experience will recoomend them.

 

If you truly want a one-man brake flush setup, the only way to go is the Motive Products pressure bleeder:

 

http://www.motiveproducts.com/

 

I have no connection with them, except as a satisfied user. I have done every other brakebleed/flush method known (including a compressor-operated vacuum bleeder, which i now use to suck out tranny/differential fluid).

 

I have my Motive bleeder in a plastic toolbox with the multiple m/c fittings, plastic tubing, catch can, C-lamp (for front caliper pistons), rags, and a can of fluid. I throw it n the car for track events.

 

This bleeeder is a "true" one-man operation, and I have never had a problem with not geting a complete air-free flush in the few years that I've had it.

 

It is not much more than a set of Speed Bleeders, plus it can be used on multiple cars.

[Noodle]

So I know this is an old thread but I have a few questions. I'm going to replace the pads and rotors on my 2005 Outback XT Limited.

 

According to the Russell site it says the Front should be 639570 (7mm) and the Rear should be 639560 (10mm)

 

This is backwards from what was posted earlier about the 05 LGT

 

Is this correct? Also does anyone know if you can get the correct bleeders in stainless steel to prevent rust? And how many bleeders do I need per wheel? 1 or 2?

 

2nd questions. my calipers still work fine but are really worn looking. Aside from aesthetics should I just go ahead and replace them as well?

[WahooNo2]

i can answer some of your questions. one bleeder per wheel. front bleeder is bigger and uses a 10 mm wrench than rear which used a 8 mm wrench. Im not sure of the thread pitch but it is fine. If your calipers still work you can wire wheel them and then paint them. if they are not woking right, you can rebuild them with new pistons, boots, seals and pins.