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2010 3.6r Jerk/Clunk/Thud when slowing to a stop?


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When slowing to a stop I get a mild thud or jerk feeling. Sometimes it's harder sometimes its softer...

 

It feels like downshifting too early, or not rev matching.

 

3.6r automatic, 55,000 miles.

 

I'm hoping I just need to change the transmission fluid? Haven't done that on this car.

 

Anyone else felt this?

 

Everything else feels like new.

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Another possible cause for that is a speed sensor in the valve body going bad. Some folks have success with replacing just the sensor, which some vendors sell non-oem versions of online. Others have reported it didnt last and have had to change out the valve body with a new OEM one.

 

Try over at the 4th gen area too, lots of 5EAT info over there.

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Another possible cause for that is a speed sensor in the valve body going bad. Some folks have success with replacing just the sensor, which some vendors sell non-oem versions of online. Others have reported it didnt last and have had to change out the valve body with a new OEM one.

 

Try over at the 4th gen area too, lots of 5EAT info over there.

 

Holy f* that's expensive.

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Holy f* that's expensive.

 

 

It can be. It’s why repair shop loyalty or diy pays off.

 

Before replacing anything , follow proper diagnostic process and you will probably feel much better about the cost. I always do. Sometimes it’s as simple as a fuse, other times a soul consuming rebuild. Better not to rebuild on account of a fuse that was improperly diagnosed.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Holy f* that's expensive.

 

Yup, I'm scared of developing this myself.

 

The sensor is cheap amd I think it is possible to DIY it. OEM valve body is another story, plus it needs to be coded to the car too.

 

Another place I've come across discussions of this is in the Australian forums, they had the 5th gen with the 5EAT as an option across the entire range

 

But as mentioned do get it diagnosed first, I dont think this is the only cause of that problem.

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I've ordered a generic turbine speed hall effect sensor to solder in personally.

Got what appears to be the same as the generic one mentioned here :

https://www.sb9t.com/threads/a-fix-for-p1710-transmission-fault-code.4324/

 

If I had to change the valve body also, I'd probably try one of these 'performance' ones :

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/264297996810

 

Would much rather go manual though, but the change of finding a reasonably priced 6 speed and getting custom mounts for it sorted seems like quite a barrier.

 

For now I shift via the paddles and that seems to avoid the bang.

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  • 4 weeks later...

I had that on mine. Sometimes is was pretty gnarly, like I ran something over. I changed my fluid a couple times and it’s mostly gone away. I can still feel when it downshifts into first as you come to a stop, but it’s not at all violent anymore. I’d characterize it as “normal” or “typical” for a car with a well worn in automatic transmission.

 

I do have a bit more than 100k*mi, though. I changed it at 90k and it hasn’t ever been done as far as I know. You probably should do it anyway. I can’t imagine the correct ATF is so expensive where you are that it’s not worth trying a change or two before you tear into the transmission itself.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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I've ordered a generic turbine speed hall effect sensor to solder in personally.

Got what appears to be the same as the generic one mentioned here :

https://www.sb9t.com/threads/a-fix-for-p1710-transmission-fault-code.4324/

 

If I had to change the valve body also, I'd probably try one of these 'performance' ones :

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/264297996810

 

Would much rather go manual though, but the change of finding a reasonably priced 6 speed and getting custom mounts for it sorted seems like quite a barrier.

 

For now I shift via the paddles and that seems to avoid the bang.

 

Just an FYI, that valve body performance mod is not the whole valve body. You will need to transfer the solenoids, inhibitor, harness, and speed sensor from your old valve body into the new one. So if you're having problems with your current valve body, replacing it with the modded one is not gonna solve it.

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