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Strange window problem


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Hey guys,

 

Having a little problem, and looking for some ideas of where to look next.

 

My windows stopped working and won't roll up or down.

- Window won't go down when pressing the switch on any door.

- Drivers side makes a whining noise when any window switch is pressed.

- buttons are lit up as they should be

- Door lock works

- tried another tested and confirmed to be working drivers side door switch and same thing happens.

 

Only change to the car was I installed a double din with an i85 harness. I'm going to swap back to the stock radio but looking for ideas

#LGTSTi is still cheaper and nicer then an equal year wrxsti

Follow my 2007 Spec B. Build here

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Started working this morning and now its not working again, no one has experienced this before?

 

That's really weird. I wonder if with the weather change it's starting to act up. In my truck it acts the same way. I bought a new window motor assembly that I have yet to install.

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Maybe a loose ground wire?

 

I'm thinking this, as it started working again today out of nowhere, going to got through checking all the connections and grounds that it may be tied to this weekend. Since the weather has warmed up considerably I really want to drive with the windows down with out worrying that I won't be able to get them back up, lol.

#LGTSTi is still cheaper and nicer then an equal year wrxsti

Follow my 2007 Spec B. Build here

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I just disassembled my drivers door switch to fix issues. The actual contacts within the switch can get burnt from arcing. It takes a few small flat screwdrivers and a pick to get the locks to pop and split it to it's components. I just moved the metal rockers around to different locations after I scraped them off with a blade. DO NOT lose the small spring that holds the window disable switch in position.
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What is your mileage on your car? It could be the motor is on its way out. If there is a bad commutation, that would cause it to not work. Then by the action of opening and closing the door, shakes it enough for the brushes to catch the next commutation and 'work'. A possible test could be to remove the door panel and 'hot wire' the motor (unplug it and connect it to a 12volt power source i.e battery) if you have a multi meter, monitor the current draw. Then do the same for the passenger window. If the driver motor pulls a lot more current, then the motor is likely no long for this world with built up internal impedance due to corrosion on the commutations.

 

Fun fact, even though the motors are sealed units, the ozone that is created by brushes arching between commutations, causes corrosion to the motor windings, and commutations (it is little but over time it adds up)

Wagon is LIFE! - 265,000 miles and climbing

Unofficial Build (Restoration) Thread

Steering Rack Rebuild

 

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