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Raising Springs - Shock/Strut question


arootbeer

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Apologies in advance if I've missed this being addressed somewhere, but I've been searching the subject off and on for at least a month and decided to just ask the question.

 

I've got an '05 LGT MT with 112K on what I believe to be the original suspension. I picked up a set of H&R raising springs, but I haven't been able to find any information about what the shock/strut recommendations for raising springs are.

 

My assumption would be that the 1.3" raise the springs advertise would mean that the shocks would simply experience a greater travel range under compression, but that the total stroke length of the shock/strut should not have to change. (IOW - that the OEM stroke length should be fine.) Is that correct?

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Interesting thought. Would you expect the handling to be be better, as well as the ride? My goal is "sporty daily driver". I'm pushing 20PSI through a 16G turbo, so the stock suspension is a very glaring weakness.

 

"Sporty daily driver" doesn't seem to match with "raise the suspension 1.3 in".

Usually you do better with a lower center of gravity, not higher.

 

15 years and 112k miles, not surprised that it's a bit wallowing now.

Replacing all the bushings and getting a slightly used set of JDM bilsteins or Koni drop ins with a matching spring will do wonders to the handling.

Slightly bigger sway bars can help, but the lift makes me think "off-road" where you probably don't want bigger bars.

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I appreciate the input from both of you. It sounds like I may not have been too clear with how I represented the current state of the handling, so I'll try to address that.

 

The car corners and carves to my taste - very neutrally, very controllably. It's certainly possible for it to get out of hand, but I figure just replacing the shocks and struts with GR2s would be enough to take care of those instances within the tolerances of my actual driving skills.

 

But a lot of the roads around here have sudden drops where the ground has sunk or risen slightly, some of which I can't imagine being less than 6" change in level, and there have been plenty of times where I've scraped the mufflers as the back end dumped off the drop, and I swear there was one time I scraped the floor of the car when I went over a bump on a section of road that also drops off to the right about 1/3 of the way from the center line. So a lot of my goal with raising would simply be to keep the car that much further above the ground, and I'm asking about handling simply because I don't want to substantially worsen the handling the car already exhibits.

 

I recognize that the center of gravity is one of the keys to handling, but I have to imagine the H&Rs are stiffer than the stock springs, which should contribute positively, right? That was what I was trying to compare to the Outback suspension, which I would assume has very similar spring rates to the LGT, but IIRC would raise the car almost 2 inches.

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  • 3 weeks later...
I was in the same boat a few years back. I didn't want to lower the car (as we have crappy streets here too and I wanted to keep the clearance since it's a DD) and wanted to keep it simple stock ride height without coilovers. Got a good deal on KYB's and found King springs (stock ride height but 30% stiffer). At around the same mileage as yours my stock springs dropped around 1- 1 1/4in. So getting the setup with the KYB/King raised me to a good stock height. I have it now for a few years and love it. Comfortable yet firm. You also can't just throw Outback struts on,as the strut bodies are 2' longer. Unless you get spacers for the F/R suspension,your angles will be all wrong and you will have massive POSITIVE camber.
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Also,the strut body limits how high the car can go. You can get a shorter spring and lower the car,but not get a longer spring and raise the car. You can get a stiffer spring that will make the car's weight sit higher than stock,like the H&R or King.
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