Plastixx Posted June 10, 2020 Share Posted June 10, 2020 My 2011 2.5i is relatively new to me and currently has 72k on it (purchased it with 71k). I was told the clutch had just been replaced before I bought it, but the used car dealer had no paper trail for it being done. The inspection cover is missing though and the A/C did not have any refrigerant in it, so I think it's safe to ass-u-me it was done. Anyway, there's a strange crunchy/rough/snaggy feeling when the clutch pedal is depressed a little more than half way. Could this be the infamous snout wear from the previous TOB going bad? Is it something I should worry about? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrD123 Posted June 14, 2020 Share Posted June 14, 2020 Does it make any noise? theoretically, if they replaced the clutch, they replaced the throwout bearing as well and would have noticed damage on the transmission case... (or at least they should have...) - it's a lot of work to check, so if it's working with no drama/noise, maybe it's ok. Is the slave cylinder to release lever contact point clean? maybe that's rusted up? 70k is early for the clutch to wear out, I would think... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted June 14, 2020 Share Posted June 14, 2020 The clutch damper delete also make the clutch pedal feel like it has a sticky point in the middle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plastixx Posted June 14, 2020 Author Share Posted June 14, 2020 Does it make any noise? theoretically, if they replaced the clutch, they replaced the throwout bearing as well and would have noticed damage on the transmission case... (or at least they should have...) - it's a lot of work to check, so if it's working with no drama/noise, maybe it's ok. Is the slave cylinder to release lever contact point clean? maybe that's rusted up? 70k is early for the clutch to wear out, I would think... The history of the car was that the original owner got in a small accident this past December that just damaged the front bumper cover, traded the car in at the Subaru dealer, and then a used car dealer bought it from them and resold to me. I don't believe the Subaru dealer did the clutch because it doesn't show on the Carfax. I think the used car dealer did the clutch and it must have really needed done (TOB grenaded maybe?), because they didn't do anything else to the car (oil and front brakes needed changed). Like I said, they didn't even bother recharging the AC, so it was probably done in a hurry without much care. The slave/fork contact point is pretty grimy with a little rust and there is also a bit of a squeak/creak noise. Maybe I'll clean and lube that up. The clutch damper delete also make the clutch pedal feel like it has a sticky point in the middle. Ha, that was the very first thing I did to the car like a week after I purchased it. Is it a clicky kind of thing, or the non-linear force I feel? Like there's a hump in the effort it takes to press the pedal about mid-way that I haven't felt in a clutch before. This is also my first push style clutch though, so maybe I'm just not used to how they feel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airgasm Posted July 3, 2020 Share Posted July 3, 2020 I just solved this symptom on my car by adjusting the clutch pedal/CMC travel. There are other threads that go into detail, but in short: Slide front seat all the way back, disconnect throttle pedal connector by the gas pedal. Point phone/flashlight above. There is a CMC rod with threads and clevis connector. Using a short wrench and tiny hands, loosen the 12mm nut on back side. Using adjustable pliers, screw the rod away from the pin toward the firewall. Give it a good qarter inch change for your case. Then put back together and test drive. It completely solved the issue and restored optimal function for my case. Note: Do not turn on the car until you reconnect the throttle cable, or you'll have to clear the code. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poconoracing Posted July 3, 2020 Share Posted July 3, 2020 Has it felt funny since you got it? or is this new? If it's a new feeling, see if you can get a camera down the slot where the clutch fork is and see if the pivot is breaking through the fork. When mine went, it felt really odd for a bit, kind of like the clutch pedal was bending under my foot. and then one day .... no clutch release as the pivot broke. DrD123 is right. If there is no obvious noises, then 'checking' involves pulling the motor or dropping the trans. Drive it until it breaks and at that point just replace it all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted July 3, 2020 Share Posted July 3, 2020 I just solved this symptom on my car by adjusting the clutch pedal/CMC travel. There are other threads that go into detail, but in short: Slide front seat all the way back, disconnect throttle pedal connector by the gas pedal. Point phone/flashlight above. There is a CMC rod with threads and clevis connector. Using a short wrench and tiny hands, loosen the 12mm nut on back side. Using adjustable pliers, screw the rod away from the pin toward the firewall. Give it a good qarter inch change for your case. Then put back together and test drive. It completely solved the issue and restored optimal function for my case. Note: Do not turn on the car until you reconnect the throttle cable, or you'll have to clear the code. Good luck! I don't recall there being any threaded rods in our cars, granted it's been a while since I had occasion to look. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airgasm Posted July 3, 2020 Share Posted July 3, 2020 You could be right - those directions are for 4th gen legacies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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