2008 3.0r no start click new bat, starter & cel codes p0335, p0340, p0345

[darthqwo]

I was driving around fine just a week ago after jump start since it had sat for a month. It started up a couple times but required a jump start each time after turning off the engine.

 

Now it clicks; battery & starter replaced with good ones; originals probably good also. Still clicks; and after starting up with new battery cruise light is flashing with above codes.

 

(Previously i had one additional code (p0028 intake valve control solenoid bank two) that triggered flashing cruise that happened after a hard pull around new years, but i cleared it and ignored it without issue. Wonder if it could be a general harness issue; voltage good at starter solenoid, however. If there is anything else to check please point it out thanks.)

 

The codes google up as crankshaft position sensor and camshaft position sensor a lh.

 

If anyone has experience with this issue i shall apprecaite your insights i need help omg thanks

[SubOperator]

Check your ground wire connection to battery and car body.

[darthqwo]

which one? (is there a diagram thx!)

 

is

one? Edited May 15, 2020 by darthqwo

[r.lee89]

There is usually a thick ground bolted to near the starter bolt to the body i think.

If its a bad ground you can try to use a set of jumper cables one end to the negative battery terminal and the other end to the engine block.

[darthqwo]

If its a bad ground you can try to use a set of jumper cables one end to the negative battery terminal and the other end to the engine block.

 

gr8 suggestion! so, i tried this; same result.

 

also fixed the ground strap on one side; as the other ground strap i had disintegrated during install. car ran for the past 18 months without any of the ground straps actually but i wonder at this poitn if this contributed to the sensor failures...

 

i reset the battery once again and now have trouble reproducing the same codes, so not tempted to replace the crank and cam position sensors quite yet. is there a way to help the codes?

 

not sure what to do...

[darthqwo]

atm codes aren't coming back, but with this code combination one reseated the crank pos sen, another had issue with starter solenoid but had an issue with no clicking at all, another with no click but auto-resolved next day with something about a wife, another with the engine running with the codes but not at full power, another with these codes plus more codes with harness fault but no mention of mere clicking or cranking

 

So mine clicks but not cranks; crank pulley turns over fine manually. Again 12v voltage tested at solenoid when turning key with 12v at the starter's bolted connexions.

 

So, planning reseat of crank pos sens.

Edited May 16, 2020 by darthqwo

[r.lee89]

Have you tired putting power directly to the starter?

With the jumper cable hook one end to back of the starter where the thick wire is bolted to. And the other to the positive battery terminal.

Then disconnect the small wire off from the starter solenoid completely and get a small wire jump it to power at the battery terminal or the jumper cable.

If it cranks then the problem could be a bad relay or power cable other electrical issues .

As for codes i wouldn't worry about it right now.

[darthqwo]

i am lead at this point to think the sensors are bad and am tracing this back possibly to my previous code p0028 for intake valve solenoid bank 2, as there are some threads that say condtitions from this code can imply my other ones, which have now returned while car is in park, as here the ecu will preempt engine start up without these critical sensors.

 

i am suspecting the sam's club prime series 10w-40 is also possible culprit; it is conventional oil where upon scrutiny it indicates api service sn plus, sn, sm, sl on bottle, which i am not sure is sufficient, but previously i have used the same brand 5w-30 twice. i went for three short drives after putting in this oil without changing oil filter when the startup issues began requiring jump start. the reason for suspecting this is that in the course of reading up on the codes, some have indicated that higher viscosity leads to higher oil pressure and in consequence incorrect sensor data, damaged sensors, and damaged internals. if anyone has any input here it is welcome

 

so at the moment i am just going to dump the oil and put it in a ford or a lawnmower; and wait on new sensors.

 

...disconnect the small wire off from the starter solenoid completely and get a small wire jump it to power at the battery terminal or the jumper cable.

 

it does not crank despite 12v directed at solenoid with key turned to on-position; just clicks in the driver side of engine. if i turn crank manually with key at on position, it makes the same sound, so this shows starter mechanism is doing something similar.

[r.lee89]

I think you need to take the starter out and bench test it correctly.

The starter has to crank when you bypass the cars solenoid wire.

It could be your main power cable is bad. Have you tried to use a jumper cable

and hooked it up to the main starter power wire and to the positive battery terminal?

[darthqwo]

cranking normally does not come from the starter; it is from the engine after a response from the ecu with inputs from the sensors.

 

however, it clicks and both of my starters are functional; again, new battery as well, and multimeter tests voltage across starter solenoid at 12v when key turned with 12v also at the bolted starter connections. the original starter actuates with power applied to solenoid connector, whihc i tested since it has been pulled out

[Infosecdad]

cranking normally does not come from the starter; it is from the engine after a response from the ecu with inputs from the sensors.

 

Yes, that's why he recommended pulling the small signal wire and directly powering the starter.

 

If you jump hot to the starter it should start turning the engine over.

 

If it doesn't, I would agree on the pull the starter and take it to an auto parts store to be tested.

 

I've had a starter that would trigger on the bench from 12v, but not be strong enough to turn over the engine.

 

If it won't turn over then the starter isn't good, not enough voltage to it, or the engine won't turn over. It sounds like you may have ruled out the second two, which leads me to believe the starter may not be good.

 

You mentioned that the starter was replaced with "a good one", but didn't say it was new; was it bench tested before install?

[darthqwo]

thanks for the input!

 

the original starter bench tested fine at the solenoid; to be complete, the replacement comes from another working 2008 subaru legacy 2.5i (same starter) and i didn't apply power direclty to the solenoid from the battery, as the wires all seem fine according to the multimeter--although i only tested for voltage, not for amperage. i will give it a go before new sensors arrive, but i have already jumped on new sensors after reading up on my codes. it is a possible amperage issue with the wires, but this will probably extend then to beyond the starter connections, notably wires connected my trouble codes--which may not be cheap to resolve.

 

i would emphasize again that both starters behaved exactly the same, so i am left to blame both starters, blame the wiring from an amperage delivery standpoint, or blame the sensors or any combination of the above

 

i made some omission in the prior detail about when the car sat for a month; for it started up fine on its own, but i then did the oil change right after with sams 10w-40. then, following three drives each between 2.8 to 5.6 miles on consecutive days, each time requiring a jump start, were the initial instances of the problem. one more omission is that i also straight piped one of the mufflers at the time, as i am no longer going into jersey on a daily basis; the latter is notable since the exhaust vibrations have untorqued some bolts in the past by the rear subframe.

 

i appreciate the help; i will add details as they become available

[r.lee89]

Reading 12v at the wire does not prove its good. Because the wire can be on a couple strands of wire or slight corrosion and still read 12v.

You will need to a voltage drop test on all 3 wires to see if the wiring is good.

These codes will not prevent the car from cranking but it will prevent it from not running or running correctly. Codes that have to do with immobilizer will prevent it from cranking.

I think your problem is in the main positive wiring and ground cable. Maybe you should get the battery load tested too.

I've had batteries read 12v and will not crank.

[darthqwo]

i got it to crank a few hours ago as the sun was setting.

 

sorry guys, i missed * so many of your redundant points. amidst the attention to grounding and the starter solenoid, somehwere in your suggestions i missed moving the jumper clamp to the positive bolted connectoin.

 

following, i got it to start, and it seems to idle smoothly despite also throwing more codes p0118 for teh coolant temperature sensors, but the problem probably is in the harness, which im hoping is contained to the main power portion.

 

These codes will not prevent the car from cranking...

 

...I think your problem is in the main positive wiring and ground cable.

 

you are probably rite on tis point; i just read way too many forums about the codes and cars not starting to point me in the wrong direction about the ecu, but i also saw earlier a video of an engine being cranked from an engine stand *. i actually did a voltage drop test, or at least some version of it when i noted voltage would not drop at teh battery upon turning the key, but i was mistaken to connect this behaviour to the ecu. so, when i was testing the starter i also didnt' realise ti was suppose to spin dangerously fast, which it did upon testing it properly

 

oy vey omg thanks

[Infosecdad]

I'm pretty sure if your coolant temp sensor is really out of range the ECU will prevent the engine from starting.

Try messing with the plug, if that doesn't help, I would replace the coolant temp sensor.