Difficulty starting when warm, no codes

[ashwinearl]

New issue experienced today. Drove to lunch, 15 minute drive. It had difficulty restarting. It cranked and eventually started, but would not fire right up and did have fuel smell after cranking. There are no problem starting in the morning.

 

There are no codes thrown.

 

This has happened a few times now, but not repeatable every time.

 

Researching has pointed to a variety of sensors that might need cleaning or replacement.

Coolant temperature sensor

Camshaft positions sensors

Crankshaft position sensor

 

Another thread considered a fuel issue and vapor lock.

 

Without codes, is there somewhere to start?

 

 

I need my support group pep talk also...!

 

It's been tough lately, at 156k miles. Everything seems to be going: radiator failure, boost hoses are disintegrating, axle seal, radiator hoses, muffler flanges breaking, ignition coil, a TGV went few months ago, oil cooler gasket leak, shifting getting notchier... Somethings are my own fault, like changing struts and springs thinking I want to be sportier, and now wanting to go back to something more comfortable...

Edited October 10, 2019 by ashwinearl

[ScottFW]

I need my support group pep talk also...!

 

It's been tough lately, at 156k miles. Everything seems to be going: radiator failure...

Mine developed a crack under the top neck at 158K.

 

boost hoses are disintegrating,

I replaced the stock turbo inlet hose at 182K while replacing the turbo. That one gets spongy near the compressor housing. Not sure what other hoses are going bad for you but rubber parts don't last forever and yours are pretty old if still original.

 

axle seal,

I did both front axle seals at 158K.

 

radiator hoses,

Replace those (use new clamps too) when doing your timing belt and water pump jobs while the coolant is all drained out. Won't have to worry about those hoses for the next 105K miles.

 

muffler flanges breaking, ignition coil, a TGV went few months ago,

Haven't had any of those yet but have gotten a few (literally three) random misses on the highway over the last 5K miles which has me thinking coils because it's not the spark plugs or injectors.

 

oil cooler gasket leak,

Common issue, they all fail eventually. Did mine at 169K. While the oil cooler was off I also replaced the little rubber coolant hoses & clamps and the worryingly rusted hard pipe between the oil cooler and water pump.

 

You didn't mention multiple wheel bearing replacements, CV axles with torn boots, brake caliper rebuild/replace, and other stuff that won't make it to 200K miles. The good news is that this stuff is all pocket change compared to buying a new car.

 

shifting getting notchier...

Not experiencing this to any noticeable degree at almost 220K, but 2/3 of my driving is highway with it sitting in 5th the majority of that time. Make sure your trans fluid is fresh and that your clutch hydraulics are getting enough travel. Keep the power shifting and race car stuff to a minimum, drive it with mechanical empathy, etc.

 

Somethings are my own fault, like changing struts and springs thinking I want to be sportier, and now wanting to go back to something more comfortable...

Lower and stiffer are not advantageous qualities in daily driver situations. Especially with any precip on the road, a more compliant suspension is safer. If you don't need the advantages of AWD for driving in rain/snow where you live, you might be happier driving something with a more properly sporty (read: RWD) drivetrain. You will soon realize that you need to adopt a Miata into your family. Congratulations.

 

Your restart & fuel odor issue sounds possibly evap canister or purge solenoid related, although I haven't had that specific issue on this car.

Wonky cam/crank sensor signals "should" trigger CEL codes because the ECU expects to see a narrow range of outputs from them. I've had those sensors fail on other cars and the ECU triggered codes before I noticed any driveability symptoms.

A bad coolant sensor might not throw a code, but I doubt that's your issue.

 

Also FWIW my experience is the sidefeed injectors need servicing/cleaning on 80K-100K intervals because that's when they start accumulating varnish/gunk that causes a suboptimal spray pattern and lumpy idle. Particularly if the injectors have never been out of the car before, look around where they sit in the rails for any evidence of fuel leaks. Also check around the fuel line fittings on the driver's side near the brake master cylinder. Because you're smelling fuel, any place that "could" leak fuel should be checked until you find the problem. But I'm still thinking it's evap system related.

[ashwinearl]

*update*

Had difficulty starting this morning when cold. I had the battery checked at Advanced and it checked out.

 

Now need to consider the starter, and clutch sensors for the starter.

 

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