Just upgraded from 97 Legacy to 99 Outback. My ?s are.

[Reloadit]

The driver window rattles in any position but rolls up and down fine? Is there anything I can just tighten up?

 

My driver's side CV boot is shot, do I replace the boot or everything and a good source for the part?

 

My 97 had 245,000 miles and this 99 is like driving a new car with only 105,000 miles. I just changed the plugs yesterday, two of the four plugs had the centre electrode burned to nothing and two still had the full points. Anything I should be concerned about? Took me 3 hours to change the plugs.

 

I would also like to know what people find to be good on road off road tires that aren't extremely noisy without breaking the bank.

 

Also, would love to know what I should be doing to keep this year model working like a top. I'm going to try to find out if the timing belt has ever been changed.

 

Thanks for any help and advice. I would like to put another 150,000 miles on this car. It has leaks now but haven't seen anything hit the pavement, either it is still collecting on the frame or just blows off when driving. I see nothing after being parked. I'm pretty happy right now. Was prepared to travel for a car like this but found it in my home town. It was the lowest mile for 500 miles and owned by a little old lady.

[RumbleRumble]

CV boot can be replaced and repacked with grease. I'd only do this if it's a fresh tear and the axle isn't making any noise. I used be able to find used ones for 25$ but it's hard to find good ones anymore.

 

 

I can do plugs is about 30 mins. get a once piece magnetic gear wrench spark plug socket or a locking 6in extension. The plugs have probably not been changed in a while. I'd grab a set of NGK plug wires for 40$ on ebay.

 

 

I'd go on tirerack and look up all terrain/ATS tires and what's around your price point.

 

 

Change all the fluids, do oil changes every 2.5k miles at least. It's a 20 year old car everything is going to need to be replaced eventually.

[Reloadit]

CV boot can be replaced and repacked with grease. I'd only do this if it's a fresh tear and the axle isn't making any noise. I used be able to find used ones for 25$ but it's hard to find good ones anymore.

 

 

I can do plugs is about 30 mins. get a once piece magnetic gear wrench spark plug socket or a locking 6in extension. The plugs have probably not been changed in a while. I'd grab a set of NGK plug wires for 40$ on ebay.

 

 

I'd go on tirerack and look up all terrain/ATS tires and what's around your price point.

 

 

Change all the fluids, do oil changes every 2.5k miles at least. It's a 20 year old car everything is going to need to be replaced eventually.

 

I'm looking at the Dorman Split CV boots for around $25. It looks like the best way to use them is to leave the old straps on and just cut the old rubber off. I'm thinking I will give myself a cushion and wait till the new boot or the other boot gives and then replace the joint, bearings and hubs on both the driver and passenger side. Right now there is no noise coming from the joint and I doubt it has been off road with the tear. I was thinking last night if I should try to pressure wash all the old grease out of the joint and then drive it on pavement to dry well before putting the new boot on?

 

I did change the oil even though it still had 2000 miles to go on the last oil change and had 16 ounces of Hot Shot Stiction added to it. Running Sea Foam in the fuel and transmission. I haven't changed the tranny fluid, just extracted some and added the Sea Foam tranny product.

 

When I make a recovery from spending $1200 more than book value for this car, I will sink some more into it at one time. I'm in the process of trying to reach the old owner to see when the Timing Belt was last changed of if ever changed.

 

I did find it is very easy to tighten up the rattling windows.

 

The last two mornings, the car wouldn't turn over on the first try. I believe the colder mornings are making something shrink making a bad connection so will be going over grounds and cables today to see if I can find something lose. After a couple turns of the key, the starter engages and she fires right up. I have had this happen to my 97 but can't remember what it was.

 

When I bought the car, the tire pressure was low and it sure absorbed bumps better. My tire store says to run 35lbs and put that much in and now it is extremely bumpy. I'm thinking of running at the tires lower range, I assume it will wear out the tires faster but feel it might prevent my car from bouncing down the road and prevent jarring everything lose? Any opinion on tire pressures?

[azm613]

Hey Reloadit!

If the car is running good you should be in the clear, headgaskets were the killers on these cars and I don't think you will run into that if you run into that if you just drive her easy. To save yourself the hastle of repacking grease and redoing CV boots, I would recommend replacing the whole axle. I ran into that exact issue on my previous 05 OB 3.0R. Grease from the inner CVs was leaking onto the cats causing a burning. I replaced both of the axles as a whole. It seems pricy at first but usually NAPA can give you a decent price. Just make sure you bring back your cores! However if you are pressed for paper, you can totally just do the boots, but I would do both sides to make life easier down the road.

For tires, heres kinda my top picks.

1. General Grabber AT2

I had these on my 2005 Outback and they killed it in the snow and were pretty easy going. They were also silent and rode great on the road.

2. Yokohama Avid series

Not very off-roady but still great in the snow,dirt and anything you throw at them.

3. Bridgestone Blizzak

Yes, it's a winter tire but they do great on dirt from what people have told me, pretty affordable too. Also can't go wrong with a bridgestone dualer.

(coming from a tire tech)

As for the tire pressure, I would run maybe 33-34 during the colder months but during the summer anywhere from 31-32 is gonna be your best bet!

Cheers!

[Reloadit]

Hey Reloadit!

If the car is running good you should be in the clear, headgaskets were the killers on these cars and I don't think you will run into that if you run into that if you just drive her easy. To save yourself the hastle of repacking grease and redoing CV boots, I would recommend replacing the whole axle. I ran into that exact issue on my previous 05 OB 3.0R. Grease from the inner CVs was leaking onto the cats causing a burning. I replaced both of the axles as a whole. It seems pricy at first but usually NAPA can give you a decent price. Just make sure you bring back your cores! However if you are pressed for paper, you can totally just do the boots, but I would do both sides to make life easier down the road.

For tires, heres kinda my top picks.

1. General Grabber AT2

I had these on my 2005 Outback and they killed it in the snow and were pretty easy going. They were also silent and rode great on the road.

2. Yokohama Avid series

Not very off-roady but still great in the snow,dirt and anything you throw at them.

3. Bridgestone Blizzak

Yes, it's a winter tire but they do great on dirt from what people have told me, pretty affordable too. Also can't go wrong with a bridgestone dualer.

(coming from a tire tech)

As for the tire pressure, I would run maybe 33-34 during the colder months but during the summer anywhere from 31-32 is gonna be your best bet!

Cheers!

 

Thank you. I will replace both axles. It's starting to fail to engage the starter now too so I think I will replace the starter first. I could replace the contacts and plunger but feel it will be smarter to replace the who thing.

 

It's got 105,000 and the original timing belt and was driven my a little old lady so I am hoping I can drive like a little old lady and get through a year before replacing the timing belt and components and water pump. Any thoughts on that? I would hate to damage the car by allowing an issue with the timing belt but it is an expense and job I won't want to do myself and my wife will want to slap me for putting that kind of money into it so soon after the purchase.

 

Thanks for the tire recommendations. I am going to run about 20K miles on the Toyo Eclipses and then replace them.

 

I would like to put in a bluetooth hands free phone radio that will slip in without a problem. It is illegal for us to hold a phone in our hands for any reason here. If you have any opinion on such an operation, I would be grateful there too. Don't need CD or DVD, just radio and bluetooth phone calling. Again, thanks for the advice, it will be applied.

[AWDFTW]

It is waaaaaaaaaaaay overdue on that timing belt job. That's a every 105,000 miles OR 105 months, whichever comes first from Subaru.

 

This is an interference engine. Err on the side of caution unless you really wanna deal with valves and pistons having a mosh pit.

 

Replace the belt and all components. The belt is not usually the failure point, it's often an idler that seizes and snaps the belt. Recommend Aisin kit for this job.

[azm613]

It is waaaaaaaaaaaay overdue on that timing belt job. That's a every 105,000 miles OR 105 months, whichever comes first from Subaru.

 

 

 

This is an interference engine. Err on the side of caution unless you really wanna deal with valves and pistons having a mosh pit.

 

 

 

Replace the belt and all components. The belt is not usually the failure point, it's often an idler that seizes and snaps the belt. Recommend Aisin kit for this job.

 

 

 

Good catch, totally forgot about the belts on EJ motors!

 

 

Yup, that’s a motor.

[RumbleRumble]

Water and grease don't mix. I just wipe the old grease out as much as I can, I don't use any cleaners just in case I can't remove it all and then the cleaner mixes with the grease.

 

What sea foam product did you put in the standard universal or the hydra trans tune? either way do not drive more than 50 miles. Dump soon.+

 

for 16in wheels it's 32F/30R cold pressure.

[Reloadit]

Water and grease don't mix. I just wipe the old grease out as much as I can, I don't use any cleaners just in case I can't remove it all and then the cleaner mixes with the grease.

 

What sea foam product did you put in the standard universal or the hydra trans tune? either way do not drive more than 50 miles. Dump soon.+

 

for 16in wheels it's 32F/30R cold pressure.

 

I used the Trans Tune Seafoam. When you say dump, are you saying replace the fluid only or replace the filter too? I'm going to replace both front axles asap. The CV joint is still working fine with the tore up boot but I will be getting it dusty so I don't expect it to be fine for long. Just need to pick my battles after the large purchase price I paid for this car.

 

My tires are 205 70-R15.

[Reloadit]

It is waaaaaaaaaaaay overdue on that timing belt job. That's a every 105,000 miles OR 105 months, whichever comes first from Subaru.

 

This is an interference engine. Err on the side of caution unless you really wanna deal with valves and pistons having a mosh pit.

 

Replace the belt and all components. The belt is not usually the failure point, it's often an idler that seizes and snaps the belt. Recommend Aisin kit for this job.

 

Dang, I was planing on taking it to the mountains in a few days but might have to use other transportation. There doesn't seem to be any squealing or grinding sounds from the idler. It is still purring like a new car.

 

I'm replacing the starter today. It's been tricky to start for the past few days now that it is getting almost to freezing at night. Takes a few turns to get it to engage the starter but starts fine throughout the day after temps warm up. Putting a Napa lifetime warranty starter in.

[Reloadit]

It is waaaaaaaaaaaay overdue on that timing belt job. That's a every 105,000 miles OR 105 months, whichever comes first from Subaru.

 

This is an interference engine. Err on the side of caution unless you really wanna deal with valves and pistons having a mosh pit.

 

Replace the belt and all components. The belt is not usually the failure point, it's often an idler that seizes and snaps the belt. Recommend Aisin kit for this job.

 

Is this the kit you suggest? That is the water pump too in the kit right?

 

https://www.amazon.com/Aisin-TKT-026-Engine-Timing-Renewed/dp/B07SGJ86GP/ref=asc_df_B07SGJ86GP/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=380023036458&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15932371885977666082&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033246&hvtargid=pla-1008201254112&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=79073044298&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=380023036458&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15932371885977666082&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033246&hvtargid=pla-1008201254112

[AWDFTW]

If you have a US spec 1999 Legacy Outback with the 2.5 DOHC engine you'll want the

TKF-009 kit I think.

[wtdash]

If you have a US spec 1999 Legacy Outback with the 2.5 DOHC engine you'll want the

TKF-009 kit I think.

Yep: https://www.amazon.com/AISIN-TKF-009-Engine-Timing-Water/dp/B0171KSFV2/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=AISIN+TKF-009&qid=1570725077&s=automotive&sr=1-1

 

 

The '99 still has that infamous EJ25D w/the internally leaking Head Gasket issues. YOU MUST keep an eye on that. Watch for bubbles in the coolant overflow tank and ensure that the temp needle stays just below the half-way point.

If it overheats and you run it for more than a few minutes you'll toast the rod-end bearings and be buying another engine. PLAN on replacing the HG b4 too long, as they're basically a maintenance item (like T-belt) on these engines.

 

The 4EAT Autos in this year were know to have issues but you can usually fix it w/this - delayed engagement fix.

 

Also, the cluster / dash gauges were known to go on the 'fritz' and the speedo may stop working. It's usually a solder joint on the circuit board.

[wtdash]

the timing belt but it is an expense and job I won't want to do myself and my wife will want to slap me for putting that kind of money into it so soon after the purchase.

 

Take the Slap and get it done. It's a used car....expect some maintenance costs.

 

I would like to put in a bluetooth hands free phone radio that will slip in without a problem. It is illegal for us to hold a phone in our hands for any reason here. If you have any opinion on such an operation, I would be grateful there too. Don't need CD or DVD, just radio and bluetooth phone calling. Again, thanks for the advice, it will be applied.

 

Crutchfield is a great resource. By the time you factor in their (usually) free install kits and tech support, it's as cheap as you'll find elsewhere.

 

Also, I've used one of these Bluetooth FM Transmitters, w/out too much complaint: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DDPUQTS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Reloadit]

I just put the car through the test. Put 325 miles on it hunting in the mountains of Idaho. No animals were harmed. It performed like a champion. I will be getting the timing belt kit done soon and the CV joints.

 

wtdash, there are some funny sounds from the dash and my cruise control is not working. I hear the "relay" or switching sounds like it is trying to engage the cruise control but nothing. I will be checking vacuum lines as soon as I can find out were they are.

 

I will be checking the coolant for bubbles and sings of gasket problems. The head gaskets have been replaced by our local dealer in I think 2006. I had the dealer look up the work associated with the vin.

 

It was sure fun to drive and I bounced very slowly up many a steep bumpy road and so far no worse for wear.

 

The heater did struggle going to defrost but when I was desperate for it, after tapping the defrost about 10 times it finally engaged and then went easily to foot and defrost were I will leave it until I get that figured out.

[Reloadit]

MADE A HUGE DISCOVERY, seems the dealership I purchased my car from unplugged the green connector under the steering wheel that is to the "check engine" light, the one that flashes. A "check engine" light that did not flash came on right as I drove it off the lot telling me the knock sensor was bad, I replaced that and no more steady check engine light. Apparently the green connector is to a different diagnostic system and it shows a mess.

 

I stopped in to AutoZone this morning to see if there was a hidden code with no "check engine" light and there wasn't. But after finding the green connector for the OTHER check engine system light it threw 10 codes, most of which would cause the cruise to not work.

 

Codes are as follows

P 0130 x 2 bank 1, oxygen sensor

P 0136 Bad Oxygen Sensor

P 0500 x 2 Circuit Malfunction Speed sensor

P 1100 Starter Switch Circuit Malfunction

P 1101 Neutral Position Switch Circuit High Input

P 1120 Throttle Position Sensor out of range

P 1121 Neutral Position Switch Circuit

P 1540 Vehicle Speed Sensor Malfunction

 

I assume if I replace these in a certain order, some of these codes will be repaired by the part replacement. I have adjusted the acceleration cable and cruise cable at the throttle body but only to take out some slack nothing that changed idle or performance at all.

 

I think it is safe to say fixing these will fix my cruise control.

 

Anyone have an opinion of what order to fix/replace parts to fix only that which is broke?

 

I'm kind of ticked off and kind of relieved at the same time. Now I can fix things and that is nice but kind of ticked at the dealer who clearly disconnected the diagnostics to sell the car. I know the little old lady who owned it and traded it in didn't disconnect it. Anyways, I can get her fixed now and she still runs like a champ.