poconoracing Posted October 2, 2019 Author Share Posted October 2, 2019 And the winner is .... It was not a broken clutch fork, or pushed through. The fork is fine. the ball broke. It appears it was either not seated against the trans case, or it worked its way out a couple threads and snapped off. I'm going to drill it out and use a EZlock insert. I bought the verus kit with the new ball. That left lower bellhousing nut? Yeah I had to pull the axle and use a big A^% breaker bar through the wheel opening and a nut extractor to break it loose and wouldn't you know it, it was cross threaded too. The whole stud came out. So I have to order the new studs, drill and tap that case and hopefully put this thing together again. The reason I do my own work.....Morons like the guy that did this clutch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SchwarzeEwigkt Posted October 2, 2019 Share Posted October 2, 2019 And the winner is .... It was not a broken clutch fork, or pushed through. The fork is fine. the ball broke. It appears it was either not seated against the trans case, or it worked its way out a couple threads and snapped off. I'm going to drill it out and use a EZlock insert. I bought the verus kit with the new ball. That left lower bellhousing nut? Yeah I had to pull the axle and use a big A^% breaker bar through the wheel opening and a nut extractor to break it loose and wouldn't you know it, it was cross threaded too. The whole stud came out. So I have to order the new studs, drill and tap that case and hopefully put this thing together again. The reason I do my own work.....Morons like the guy that did this clutch. Son of a bitch. Nothing worse than taking your car apart and finding out that some prick who you paid good money to fix your car did a sloppy job. Especially when it comes to things like cross-threading fasteners. Come on. That’s serious amateur stuff. I haven’t cross-threaded a fastener in two decades since I was taught how to avoid it. Glad you’ve finally got the thing’s number and have got a plan to get it working again. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poconoracing Posted October 2, 2019 Author Share Posted October 2, 2019 Son of a bitch. Nothing worse than taking your car apart and finding out that some prick who you paid good money to fix your car did a sloppy job. Especially when it comes to things like cross-threading fasteners. Come on. That’s serious amateur stuff. I haven’t cross-threaded a fastener in two decades since I was taught how to avoid it. Glad you’ve finally got the thing’s number and have got a plan to get it working again. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk No doubt. Cross threading is what happens when you use air tools to reassemble things. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexmed2002 Posted October 2, 2019 Share Posted October 2, 2019 Son of a bitch. Nothing worse than taking your car apart and finding out that some prick who you paid good money to fix your car did a sloppy job. Especially when it comes to things like cross-threading fasteners. Come on. That’s serious amateur stuff. I haven’t cross-threaded a fastener in two decades since I was taught how to avoid it. Glad you’ve finally got the thing’s number and have got a plan to get it working again. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk I find it hard to trust other mechanics. I only trust 2 places, one of them is friends of my family (a bit far from me), and the other is local to me and did a great job on my truck when I had it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SchwarzeEwigkt Posted October 4, 2019 Share Posted October 4, 2019 No doubt. Cross threading is what happens when you use air tools to reassemble things. Air tools to assemble things? Do you wanna get cut? ‘cause that’s how you get cut! Heh. Not really. You can use smaller things like an electric or air ratchet. Just start them by hand so you know they’re lined up. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poconoracing Posted October 4, 2019 Author Share Posted October 4, 2019 (edited) Air tools to assemble things? Do you wanna get cut? ‘cause that’s how you get cut! Heh. Not really. You can use smaller things like an electric or air ratchet. Just start them by hand so you know they’re lined up. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Granted …. I'm not a flat rate mechanic, just a guy in his driveway ... but I've found the safest way to prevent an issue is to use hand tools. Then you can feel if it binds before you do any damage. It sure is frustrating to deal with this. Edited October 4, 2019 by poconoracing content Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SchwarzeEwigkt Posted October 4, 2019 Share Posted October 4, 2019 Granted …. I'm not a flat rate mechanic, just a guy in his driveway ... but I've found the safest way to prevent an issue is to use hand tools. Then you can feel if it binds before you do any damage. It sure is frustrating to deal with this. Oh, you’re definitely right. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poconoracing Posted October 6, 2019 Author Share Posted October 6, 2019 (edited) Got some time today to work on the broken fork pivot. Drilled it out, tapped it and inserted an ezlok M8 insert with red locktite. Let that set up and then threaded in the new pivot, torqued to 12 ftlbs Set the TSK3 snout sleeve and set screws with blue locktite. Greased her all up good and installed the Verus clutch fork and oversized release bearing. So far so good. Edited October 6, 2019 by poconoracing details Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coco26 Posted October 6, 2019 Share Posted October 6, 2019 Were you able to get the rubber boot for the fork back in place? My fork was too close to the front of the bell housing for it to fit... not sure if thats because of the new clutch or the fork design. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poconoracing Posted October 6, 2019 Author Share Posted October 6, 2019 The boot went back on with a little convincing. I put the back of it in first, because it was behind the fork and I couldn't get to it. I then pulled the front down from inside the bellhousing and it seated all the way around Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poconoracing Posted October 16, 2019 Author Share Posted October 16, 2019 (edited) In case anyone is in the same boat with the lower bellhousing nuts this is the extension set I used, I don't have the spring loaded wobble joints just these handy little tools I got from the local Autozone. They work great. https://www.ebay.com/i/254253013572?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=254253013572&targetid=595069534723&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9012169&poi=&campaignid=2086087614&mkgroupid=76935344043&rlsatarget=pla-595069534723&abcId=1141016&merchantid=114781221&gclid=Cj0KCQjwz8bsBRC6ARIsAEyNnvo0Z8UQWUMqf55uGFkXJyKAOUiJF0wplBb8eb1jSPmopjtFa7ff4RYaAufgEALw_wcB One a side note. The impact wobbler I was talking about is this. It definitely gives up some torque with some spring or something inside. - https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-1-2-in-Drive-Impact-Swivel-Adapter/1000545635?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-tol-_-google-_-pla-_-216-_-soshandtools-_-1000545635-_-0&cm_mmc=src-_-c-_-prd-_-tol-_-google-_-tools-_-PLA_TOL_Tools_High+Priority-_--_-0-_-0&gclsrc=aw.ds&&gclid=Cj0KCQjw3JXtBRC8ARIsAEBHg4kA_o0W2JMPAoBwY6wAOba1Ix4FgKYiqPsJvY_o_Ue_Vcrjd4DTa6gaAv-NEALw_wcB I tried this too - https://www.homedepot.com/p/TEKTON-1-4-3-8-1-2-in-Drive-Impact-Universal-Joint-Set-3-Piece-4964/205848265?mtc=Shopping-B-F_D25T-G-D25T-25_1_HAND_TOOLS-Multi-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-HandTools_PLA&cm_mmc=Shopping-B-F_D25T-G-D25T-25_1_HAND_TOOLS-Multi-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-HandTools_PLA-71700000034127224-58700003933021546-92700031755124841&gclsrc=aw.ds&&gclid=Cj0KCQjw3JXtBRC8ARIsAEBHg4l4AAmYzAoLwBqA4s8kVUEOEBnY63DVUihZwfRtgfuIzBFlJ-xXSPEaAjKBEALw_wcB With no luck. It definitely got more torque to the nut, and ultimately rounded it. requiring an extractor like this with the axle out and a 42 or so inch breaker bar. The axle removal required the rotor, caliper bracket, strut bolts, the end link and the tie rod end to be removed. The axle came out with a tug from the trans and no fluid leaked out. With it out I put the breaker bar out the opening where the axle was and got a good bite on that damn but. https://www.amazon.com/Maximum-Impact-Bolt-Remover-pieces/dp/B01JDNIYPW Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Edited October 16, 2019 by poconoracing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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