abakja1 Posted September 12, 2019 Share Posted September 12, 2019 (edited) I have a 2011 LGT and installing my Invidia catted Jpipe. I got all nuts off the jpipe flange and ready to take the jpipe off, but there is something at the top of the jpipe flange stopping me from sliding it off. I even unbolted the midpipe from the catted part of the jpipe to make it easier to manuver if off the turbo. It doesnt seem to be any bolts, and it not any of the O2 sensors hitting anything. I am reading the AVO install thread on the archives as he states that I would have to take 3 of the studs off in order to take the jpipe off, but Im afraid with 60k on the odometer, if I attempt to take the studs off, it will break off into the flange. Im hoping to not need to take off studs , but in reading other install threads it seems like I do. Which 3 studs need to be removed or does it make a difference? Any input and pictures to illustrate will help. Would like to complete this today, as I spent a few hours already trying to take off a rounded nut. Edited September 12, 2019 by abakja1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted September 12, 2019 Share Posted September 12, 2019 The only part I can recall being in that area that could block the Jpipe is the support bracket at the top. I think most of us ended up dropping the whole manifold to remove the turbo as it is much easier to get to all the nuts and studs that way. Can you post a picture of what you are working with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted September 12, 2019 Share Posted September 12, 2019 https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/avo-dp-install-fitment-233597.html this thread may help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coco26 Posted September 12, 2019 Share Posted September 12, 2019 The support bracket at the top is right. There are two bolts going vertical, up from the bottom, just to the outside of each of the top studs that hold it to the engine. The coolant outlet is in the way of sliding the bracket out with the j-pipe once its unbolted, so removing some studs is necessary if you don't want to drop the whole manifold. I typically remove the top front stud, which allows the bracket to slide out the back and the downpipe to come off. Make sure you use the proper socket (E10) to have the best chance of getting them out without stripping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abakja1 Posted September 13, 2019 Author Share Posted September 13, 2019 I couldnt wait for the replies as I had to pickup my daughters from school. So, with 2 studs already out (top left and bottom right), I used the torx socket to take out bottom left stud,.. once it loosened up, it drop right out. The install was not bad, but i did strip a nut yesterday and spent an hour to hour and a half trying to dremel cut pie slices the nut. Only to realize that i had a sears nut remover set in my tool box,..came right off,... Now to download cobb ots stage 2 tune until my protune qt the end of the month. Grimmspeed 3 port solenoid to go in a day or two before my tune,... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A_A_ron Posted September 16, 2019 Share Posted September 16, 2019 Instead of using the OTS tune ask your tuner providing the pro tune for a base tune. Running his base tune ahead of time will be better for engine protection and if he's a good tuner he'll probably do a little e tuning ahead of the official protune to get some of the easy stuff hammered out. Build Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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