Steering wheel shake

[Flatfour02]

Hi all. Stock 2005 Outback XT, AT. I've been chasing a steering wheel shake for a while now, and I'm at my wit's end. I've replaced both ball joints, both tie rod ends, both wheel bearings, both end links, both sway bar bushings, both lower control arms and bushings, both brake calipers and rotors. I've had the wheels balanced, tires rotated, and the alignment done.

I believe the shake is coming from the drivers side, because the front left wheel and all other components there get extremely hot from driving, and the other side doesn't. It gets worse the farther you drive it, and when you first start it while it's cold it's barely noticeable. Pressing the brakes does not seem to effect it, though it does seem worse when I let off the gas. It is A VERY violent shake, you can feel it in the whole car. Any ideas guys? I could really use one.

[hurricane7]

ABS sensor? Seems to be the only thing I can think of that you haven't changed!

 

I've read where guys have removed the ABS fuse just to see if the shaking goes away, but be careful because the brakes will not work as well.

[08SpecB_DE]

Sticking caliper. New does not always mean good. Perhaps it's as simple as the brake hose being twisted during the install. I'd replace the LF caliper and brake hose if it passes the visual.

[MaasaiWarrior]

Sticking caliper. New does not always mean good. Perhaps it's as simple as the brake hose being twisted during the install. I'd replace the LF caliper and brake hose if it passes the visual.

 

Happened to me in the spring, did a quick rebuild and cleaned the sliders and it's been fine since.

[Flatfour02]

Happened to me in the spring, did a quick rebuild and cleaned the sliders and it's been fine since.

 

Did you have any unusual wear signs on your rotor? It's got new rotors too, and it doesn't seem to have any marks that are out of the ordinary.

[SubOperator]

Hi all. Stock 2005 Outback XT, AT. I've been chasing a steering wheel shake for a while now, and I'm at my wit's end. I've replaced both ball joints, both tie rod ends, both wheel bearings, both end links, both sway bar bushings, both lower control arms and bushings, both brake calipers and rotors. I've had the wheels balanced, tires rotated, and the alignment done.

I believe the shake is coming from the drivers side, because the front left wheel and all other components there get extremely hot from driving, and the other side doesn't. It gets worse the farther you drive it, and when you first start it while it's cold it's barely noticeable. Pressing the brakes does not seem to effect it, though it does seem worse when I let off the gas. It is A VERY violent shake, you can feel it in the whole car. Any ideas guys? I could really use one.

 

I have somewhat similar problem in that the front wheel shake appeared about couple of years ago and I can't yet resolve it completely. I also have replaced both ball joints, both tie rods, have new rotors, pads and new OEM calipers on all 4 corners. Endlinks and FSB bushings I left untouched since I do not believe they have anything to do with this, plus they are tight (Kartboy solid endlinks and poly bushings for my aftermarket FSB).

 

I had it real bad with old rotors and pads. It got better after I rebuilt the original calipers with OEM rebuild kit, but the effect did not last. I then went on to replace old Centrics rotors with new Cryo NAPA rotors and pads, which helped initially. Then the shake came back. Since my rear brakes needed new rotors and pads anyway, plus one reat caliper started sticking, I bit the bullet and bought 4 brand new (not rebuilt) OEM calipers from the dealer. Bled the brakes, new ATE brake fluid and all that. Shake went away then came back within a week.

 

Someone suggested Akebono pads so I put new Akebono front pads to replace NAPA pads and bed them aggressively, which helped a little. Now the car is almost shake free most of the time, but the shake still comes back here and there. After some heavy breaking it goes away for some time, but nevertheless it is still there.

 

The only remaining step for me is to replace NAPA rotors that have less than 10K on them with new OEM units. If that does not help I will go after brake hoses (still originals at 14 years old) and then ABS unit. I do not believe it is either CV axle or suspension - I swapped axles and that didn't change anything. I also have STI bushings in LCAs and bushings are tight.

 

Since the issue disappears after some heavy breaking but then comes back, I am thinking it has something to do with hydralics - that is brake lines or ABS controller. I do not think it is brake booster as it does not separate between the wheels, that occurs at ABS unit.

 

Somewhat hopeful that together we can put this to bed.

[08SpecB_DE]

Pull the calipers and check out the guide pins. The rubber pieces on the pins often swell and will not allow the caliper to float properly.

 

I always replace brake hoses when replacing a caliper. I also make sure the hubs are buffed prior to putting on new rotors.

[SubOperator]

Pull the calipers and check out the guide pins. The rubber pieces on the pins often swell and will not allow the caliper to float properly.

 

I always replace brake hoses when replacing a caliper. I also make sure the hubs are buffed prior to putting on new rotors.

 

 

I have brand new OEM calipers so pins and rubber boots are new. I did lift pin boots before install to make sure pins have enough grease on them.

 

 

I know the issue with dirt/rust between the hub and rotor and did make sure hubs are clean before new rotors went on, metal brushed them using drill and compressed air.

 

 

 

The only part that didn't get touched in all this time between changing rotors, pads and rebuilding/replacing calipers is upwards starting with brake hoses. I wonder if the only real effect hard braking has is to either expand the hose if it is swelling, or may be move some dirt that blocks the brake fluid flow somewhere in the system. I bled the brakes several times and have not noticed any debris coming out though.