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Squeaky clutch turns bad...Need Help!!!


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So I have bit of a situation. I have had a squeaky clutch almost since I bought the car back at 205k miles. Now I am in the middle of a major restoration process, and figured I would lube up every part of the clutch/brake pedal assembly. That did nothing for the squeak.

 

 

So I then went through the major process of removing the assembly (turned out to be worth the effort)

 

 

The bushing where the clevis pin goes for the clutch master cylinder is worn through (see picture). It started to do the wearing out of the actual lever. It looks worse than it is and I don't believe a whole new assembly is needed if I can avoid it. The clevis pin is also worn out (that I can order a new one easily)

 

 

Any ideas on either making a new bushing / sourcing one / where can I get a new lever that attaches to the master cylinder (since it is held in place by spring pins and therefore removable)

 

 

I can not find a part number for just the lever end.

 

 

Update 1****Quick search I found this...it doesn't list as a direct application to the GT but its getting me closer 36016FC001****

 

 

 

 

Any help or suggestions would be great!!!!!!!

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Edited by jaylew

Wagon is LIFE! - 252,000 miles and climbing

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I can't answer your question unfortunately, but I'm curious.. I'd like to inspect this on my car, and maybe lubricate it if I've highlighted the correct numbers in the FSM diagram. The problem is, I have no idea what I'm looking at in your pictures. It looks like these parts go inside the car, near the clutch pedal assembly? 11, 26, 7 in attached picture below?

 

There are also some bushings in the Subaru parts diagram in the link below, particularly at the bottom of the list, but I don't know if that's the right one..

https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_2005_Legacy-25L-TURBO-5MT-4WD-GT-Limited-Wagon/_54100_6028129/PEDAL-SYSTEM-BRAKE--CLUTCH-PEDAL/B13-363-02.html

 

*Actually, I think I have a better idea after looking in the FSM a little more.. Attaching a second picture, where I highlighted what I think you posted pictures of.. The parts.subaru.com diagram doesn't have a number for the bushing that I think you might need, I wonder if the dealer will have a number for that bushing on the diagram.

clutchpedal2005.thumb.jpg.91d03b043394c33b5bd9fb7630505887.jpg

clutchassembly.thumb.jpg.a547a4afc27d376d5ceca8bfce5cdd0e.jpg

Edited by apexi
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Sorry, yes you are correct with the FSM diagram. Number 26.

 

 

 

On Opposed forces its closest to number 13

http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b13/type_27/manipulation/pedal_system/illustration_2/

 

 

Sorry for the confusion. In my head it was obvious but of course it is because I have the context!! Also I just suck at explaining things well

Wagon is LIFE! - 252,000 miles and climbing

Unofficial Build (Restoration) Thread

Steering Rack Rebuild

 

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No worries, I'm the exact same way.

 

I don't have much to add, but kudos for removing that whole assembly, what a PITA that must have been.

 

I forgot how annoying it is to do work in that area, had to turn into a contortionist to lubricate that damn thing.. After 10 years and 232k my clevis pin looked dry, but I couldn't see any damage. Though, it's worth noting I did not remove the pin. It looks like it has a plastic tip that you might be able to pinch and remove without breaking, but I'd do what the FSM says and use a new clevis pin, it looks like they're $2 or less.

https://parts.subaru.com/images/uploads/SimplePart%20-%20Subaru/fullsize/a_20160613_1345359991.png

 

I just pushed the pin back and forth, which gave me a few mm's to stick a popsicle stick with sil-glyde on the tip up against the clevis pin. Did that on each side, pushed back and forth a few times, twirled it around by the cotter pin, seems well lubricated now.. Might do it the proper way by removing it when the weather gets warmer, we'll see.

 

I also couldn't figure out how to remove that plastic panel directly above the pedals, but I didn't really do my homework either, just winged it. The two Philips clips on the sides came out no problem, but the center one without a philips head didn't want to come out, and I didn't feel like breaking anything tonight. I was also nervous about the OBD2 connector that seems clipped into that plastic panel. I'm sure there is a way to remove it fairly easily, just need to do a little research. You can lube that clevis pin without removing the panel for anyone thinking about doing this, you can look directly up at the pin unobstructed, but the panel is a little annoying.

 

Edit: It looks like this is the clip in the center, different from the other two clips, but nothing special... I gave a lazy attempt at reaching around the panel to pinch or push the clip out instead of pulling, I think I'll give that another try sometime.

http://one-jp.com/lot/e240266719

Edited by apexi
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Yeah it's not fun to remove. Mostly because of the wiring in the way. I removed the fuse box to get better looks at things. My car is pretty torn apart already so it was nothing super extra. Definitely dropping the steering wheel is a must.

 

 

 

I think the part number I found for the lever will work 36016FC001, it is just the bushing, FSM# 11. That might be some McMaster magic that will have to be done if there is no easily found part number from subaru

Wagon is LIFE! - 252,000 miles and climbing

Unofficial Build (Restoration) Thread

Steering Rack Rebuild

 

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I am going to order these bushings from McMaster. They are all rated for high load so we'll see. It seams as though the clevis pin is 5/16 diameter. The hole in the lever is either 3/8 or 7/16. I may be sanding down the 7/16 to make it press fit but we'll see. Also ordering them in varying lengths so it will be the width of the attaching fork of the clutch master instead of just the width of the lever

1041578437_ScreenShot2019-03-09at10_55_07AM.thumb.jpg.dca18fc7e2f8c949da3f36bc9b2d6ca0.jpg

Wagon is LIFE! - 252,000 miles and climbing

Unofficial Build (Restoration) Thread

Steering Rack Rebuild

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

So I took delivery of the replacement lever...turned out to not be the same as what is on the car. It must be GT specific.

 

 

For one, the clevis pin pick up point is closer to the pivot point

Picture 1 the levers aligned (misalignment of the spring pin) to show the difference in clevis pin pick up points

Picture 4 further shows what I am talking about

 

 

 

 

Then the locating points for the spring pins are different.

Picture 2 shows the clevis pin holes misaligned but the hole for the spring pin is aligned

 

 

I drilled out the existing lever with a 7/16 drill bit to fit the bushing from Mcmaster that has a shoulder (for added strength) and is 7/16 OD. McMaster part# 2938T5. The 3/8 length is too big for the master cylinder side but it can be sanded down. The clevis pin is tight in the 5/16 ID but it fits..I might clearance it more or try a few lubes.

 

Picture 3 I hold a busing next to the lever. The lever already has the same bushing installed

 

 

 

I considered using the new lever I got, because thinking about it, the change in lever position would give more leverage at the pedal, therefore a lighter clutch. I believe this is why the GT has an uncharacteristically heavy clutch pedal. I don't feel like messing with adjusting the limit switches to make it work. If the spring pin locations were the same then maybe, someone weigh in if you have evidence that I am over thinking the adjustment needed and it will work out. Maybe another project for another day when I have more time to repeatedly remove the pedal assembly to adjust and test.

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Edited by jaylew

Wagon is LIFE! - 252,000 miles and climbing

Unofficial Build (Restoration) Thread

Steering Rack Rebuild

 

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